Converting steel floor SWB fleet to wood

[FormerMember]

So, how tough is it, what sort of snafu's pop up?

I have great bed sides and an awesome tailgate. Primed and ready to go. Just can't find a dang floor. I do need a bed front, as my short bed may be going to someone else with more body work patience...

This truck won't see any weight, I have a new pick up for that.

[FormerMember]

Anyone? Is this too simple and I should be out there right now?

[MAR-Ktech]

Grendel:
There are many board members that have done this conversion. We have the instructions on line http://www.mar-k.com/67-72conv.pdf You can veiw them with acrobat 5.1 or better but they won't print. Should answer most of your questions about procedure and level of difficulty.

Mar-Ktech

[dennislbrooks]

Keep the steel.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Keep the steel.

I value opinions (that's not sarcasm). Why do you say this?

although the cost of going wood has shocked the heck out of me.

[kxmotox247]

Originally Posted by grendel

I value opinions (that's not sarcasm). Why do you say this?

although the cost of going wood has shocked the heck out of me.

I'm putting together a new shortbox using some Goodmark sides. I was going to go the route of a wood floor and even ordered the front bed panel to do so. I've since priced out the extra cross sills and the actual wood and hardware and decided not to based on price. The other thing is that I came across a really nice steel floor for $150 that only has one or two dings and a small rust hole. I can fix those and not be afraid to use it. Just my opinion. A nice straight steel floor with shiny paint looks really nice.

I have a contact who sells parts for Goodmark. He told me that they are working on a repro steel floor. I may even get a shot at obtaining one of the prototypes if I let him know soon. I don't know if that's a good idea. The best bet may be to wait till they get it fitting good. And I'm not sure if the repro steel floor would include crossmembers or not.

[Low69CST]

I'm thinking of doing the steel to wood switch. I'm building a toy, so I won't be working out of it. My main thought is using a flip kit to lift up a plank to fill up my gas tank. I think Wood beds look better than steel, but I like steel also. I'd like to have a steel floor because so many show trucks use that as a "way out" of fixing their steel floor.

[dennislbrooks]

I have seen some beautiful wood floors. I have also seen excellent steel floors. I like the steel because of its lower maintenance. My 67 swb came with steel, I heard wood was an option. Sorry I did not reply sooner.

[dennislbrooks]

Your steel floor appears to be in pretty good shape and may clean up nicely.

[MAR-Ktech]

Your steel floor appears exceptional. If you change to wood, You will have no trouble selling the steel floor and front panel. Don't damage them in the removal process. Good luck with your project.
Mar-Ktech

[Hunter]

My shorty was a strippy when I bought it. 292, 4 speed, manual drum brakes, manual steering. Near as I can tell the only real options were 2 tone paint, upper body mouldings and guages. For what it cost me in time and labor to install the V8 auto, power steering, power disk brakes and posi rear, I shoulda just went out and bought a Cheyenne. IMO, the cost (and labor!) of the wood bed just doesn't make sense. Find the truck you want and just buy it. Been there. H.

[FormerMember]

Well, I've decided to stay with a steel bed. Found a very good one here on the board.

That picture is very deceiving, as there's ALOT of fiberglass holding the fenderwells onto the floor.

[dennislbrooks]

Has anyone tried to adapt the 73-87 steel floor? I have seen in catalogs that it can be bought new in 2 halves.

[panhandler62]

I'll have to take on this project eventually.. either convert or fix (if not just replace!)

I have swiss-cheese like innner bed sides (the rust is stopped but the damage is done) fender wells that look like crushed beer cans and a bed floor that could double as a model of the moguls at a ski resort.

(I think the PO hauled a lot of gravel.)

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Has anyone tried to adapt the 73-87 steel floor? I have seen in catalogs that it can be bought new in 2 halves.

I thought about doing that as well. The seem to be about the same size. I hear the holes are off, but I have a drill and a welder...

[dennislbrooks]

If they do not come out with steel replacement for the 67-72-- next time I will try also. Am with you -- can fabricate-- I made a plywood template off my old swb with correct hole locations--a half as it is symetrical from what I can tell. I rebuilt a new steel bed from replacement rib pieces -- with a 16 gauge deckplate underneath my new ribs--- new floor does not give for sure but added about 150 pounds to the truck --took me 3 weeks to piece the puzzle.

[FormerMember]

Pics!!! Please!!

before I put my bed together.

[dennislbrooks]

The final pic is a color matched spray in bedliner from Permatech --urethane based.

If you have just a hauler the 14 gauge steel deck plate would suffice. Both sides were sandblasted and then ZeroRust treated. Same with the corrugated replacement panels before final assembly. The panels are mostly sanwiched bolted, some weleding. I drilled out 110 spot welds to reuse my inner sills. New front panel and rear sill. All panel seams got body caulk after zerorust before spray liner.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

The final pic is a color matched spray in bedliner from Permatech --urethane based.

If you have just a hauler the 14 gauge steel deck plate would suffice. Both sides were sandblasted and then ZeroRust treated. Same with the corrugated replacement panels before final assembly. The panels are mostly sanwiched bolted, some weleding. I drilled out 110 spot welds to reuse my inner sills. New front panel and rear sill. All panel seams got body caulk after zerorust before spray liner.

Now that's stout!