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Old 09-10-2005, 07:50 PM   #1
DM310
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new pics of suspension

here we go
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-10-2005, 08:01 PM   #2
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SWEET!!
That looks awesome. Great work. Nice welds too!! Everything looks super-clean. I'd be proud to roll that.
I do have a question for you though. You mounted your bags pretty far forward of the axle. That will probably be good for extra lift, but won't it put a lot of stress on them there?
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Last edited by 67Fleet; 09-10-2005 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 09-10-2005, 08:11 PM   #3
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Thank you!. Yes I am sure there will be added stress but the bags should be able to handle it. I am not sure on what psi I will have to run at ride height on the rear yet.
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles

Last edited by DM310; 09-10-2005 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 09-10-2005, 09:54 PM   #4
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looks AWESOME
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Old 09-10-2005, 10:28 PM   #5
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hey dm310, your trucking is looking awesome. ive been looking into old threads as i am about to do a z and crossmember drop on my 78 2wd blazer frame. will you lay out on your rails with 2"z and 1.5"xdrop without lca interference? also what other promblems have you encountered with this combo? steering? trans tunnel tranns xmember etc? thanks john
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Old 09-10-2005, 10:37 PM   #6
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Dude that looks flippin awesome! Hang a fender so we can get a visual on how low it's going to set...
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Old 09-10-2005, 11:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehightoyz
hey dm310, your trucking is looking awesome. ive been looking into old threads as i am about to do a z and crossmember drop on my 78 2wd blazer frame. will you lay out on your rails with 2"z and 1.5"xdrop without lca interference? also what other promblems have you encountered with this combo? steering? trans tunnel tranns xmember etc? thanks john
w/ the truck laid out theres about a 1-2" between the lca's and the ground. So far no probs. I say do both the z and the x member drop. thanks

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Originally Posted by N2TRUX
Dude that looks flippin awesome! Hang a fender so we can get a visual on how low it's going to set...
Thanks man. I will get one tomorrow
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-11-2005, 01:48 AM   #8
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that looks pretty sweet. i'm interested in the watt's link. you have any pictures of that?
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:46 AM   #9
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Yeah, the bags sure are mounted pretty far forward, what bags are they? 2500's or 2600's? You might want to move em back or you might not use all of that notch.
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Old 09-11-2005, 03:31 AM   #10
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what did you plate your z with 1/4"?? same for front frame horns or slightly thinner? do you plan on boxing the inside? do you foresee any interference on steering shaft and upca? sorry for all the questions, trying to get all my ?'s answer before i whip the sawzall out
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Old 09-11-2005, 01:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0lf-
Yeah, the bags sure are mounted pretty far forward, what bags are they? 2500's or 2600's? You might want to move em back or you might not use all of that notch.
I am not sure how you think I would not use all of the notch? Aired out it lays?

Quote:
Originally Posted by milehightoyz
what did you plate your z with 1/4"?? same for front frame horns or slightly thinner? do you plan on boxing the inside? do you foresee any interference on steering shaft and upca? sorry for all the questions, trying to get all my ?'s answer before i whip the sawzall out
I used 1/4" on the inside. I did not plate the horns though. Yes there will be some interference w/ the steering shaft. I am going to be running some joints to fix that prob
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-11-2005, 01:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbluthng
that looks pretty sweet. i'm interested in the watt's link. you have any pictures of that?

Heres a old pic
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1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:11 PM   #13
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Looks damn nice!

I love the set-up, sure the bags a mounted pretty far forward, but it should ride like a queen! I was going to go that route but I have gotten my self going a much different route that is turning into a lot of work! Any ways frame looks sweet! Cant wait to see some pix once you get the body on the frame!

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Old 09-11-2005, 02:22 PM   #14
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is that the speedway watts link? if so hows the quality? ive heard they might be to thin for fullsize applications as they were designed more for streetrods/minis? what did you use to fab the center pivot brace?
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DM310
.... I will get one tomorrow.
It's tomorrow . . .... where's our pics?

Looks cool. Get some front, rear, & side shots w/the wheels bolted up @ ride height & dumped.
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Old 09-11-2005, 03:44 PM   #16
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Looks damn good. Just one question: Have you calculated how much force will be applied to the front trailing arm bolts? Seem like a lot of leverage with the bags that far forward. There's going to be a metric-$hit-ton of force there. I'd hate to see a sweet truck do a pole-vault. It looks like you know what you're doing though.
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Old 09-11-2005, 07:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehightoyz
is that the speedway watts link? if so hows the quality? ive heard they might be to thin for fullsize applications as they were designed more for streetrods/minis? what did you use to fab the center pivot brace?
Yes it is a speedway watts link. The quality is good. Another member here used it with good results so I feel comfortable using it. The brace is 1" square tubing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry
Looks damn good. Just one question: Have you calculated how much force will be applied to the front trailing arm bolts? Seem like a lot of leverage with the bags that far forward. There's going to be a metric-$hit-ton of force there. I'd hate to see a sweet truck do a pole-vault. It looks like you know what you're doing though.
It should be just fine I hope ....... j/k The trailing arms and the ECE crossmember should hold up just fine.
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-12-2005, 04:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry
Looks damn good. Just one question: Have you calculated how much force will be applied to the front trailing arm bolts? Seem like a lot of leverage with the bags that far forward. There's going to be a metric-$hit-ton of force there. I'd hate to see a sweet truck do a pole-vault. It looks like you know what you're doing though.
That's what I was thinking too, it would be an shame to break a trailing arm cruising down the highway. You may want to just double-check to see how much force is going to be put to the front of those arms. Picture a see-saw. There's a fat kid on the end of one side and you go to jump on the other side close to the pivot point. That fat kid ain't gonna budge but you're laying on the ground next to a broken board. I'm just a little concerned that's all. Not trying to dog your work at all because it looks incredible. I just think the physics of the bags that far forward will put a lot of stress on the pivot-point on the front of those trailing arms.
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Old 09-12-2005, 04:57 PM   #19
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Thanks guys. I will look into it and get some #'s for you guys
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-12-2005, 05:22 PM   #20
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Oh and if there is a prob I can always reinforce the bottom. I know it wont pull the mount off though. Does any know what the force (lbs) is for a stock coil location? If I can get that number I will beable to figure out what it is for the location of my bags/
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:30 PM   #21
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I wouldn't be as worried about the pivot point as I would the trailing arms themselves. They were never designed to lift the truck from that point. The stock spring location decreases the leverage applied greatly. The closer you move the fulcrum to the pivot point, the more pressure is applied to the lever itself. That is the price you pay for the increased lift.
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:42 PM   #22
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Maybe some trailing arm reinforcement would add a little margin. Here's a kit from ECE:
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Old 09-14-2005, 11:23 AM   #23
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I have my bags mounted at almost the same spot and I renforced the crap out of them just because of past experience with minis and guys not renforcing them, The pivots will be fine just watch the side flex on the arms. 3/16 plate steel the sides to box them or 2x3 box tube or the is a company out there that makes a fully boxed arm but I cant remember now. Good luck and if I can find some good pics of my truck I'll throw them up

BTW truck is looking sweet.
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Old 09-24-2005, 05:25 AM   #24
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yeah, the speedway watts link works well, im "that other guy" thats running one... well, was, before my panel burned... but im building another one using the same frame so itll be back. Also, i mounted my bags about 10-14" ahead of the original coil location, worked awesome!!! Could ride with low enough pressure for a sweet ride and be high enough to clear stuff around town, and also had 19" of lift at the back bumper, while only going 1/4" off from center with that watts link.
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Old 10-04-2005, 12:34 AM   #25
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Ive got a 10" notch that extends forward to clear the trailing arms, bags mounted about 10" or so ahead of original spring perches. sorry for the crappy pics, only pics i have of it right now from my phone. im running a watts link on this setup, but the only pic i have of the watts link is through the burnt floor of my panel
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