Looking for product recommendations for painting the frame - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

rmrtndl · 09-15-2005, 10:55 PM

I am about ready to restore the frame of my '72 GMC. I am considering POR-15, Rust Bullet, Eastwoods Chassis Black, and good old Black epoxy primer.

I am looking for product recommendations. Please share success stories for any products you are happy with and how they have weathered over time.

Thanks folks

*72CSTC5* · 09-15-2005, 11:05 PM

Por 15 works good but follow the directions exactly or it will not work well. Finicky but you can brush it on and it looks good. I did the entire inside of my 66 fastback with this stuff and inside the quarters and all. Works good.

bluec10 · 09-15-2005, 11:07 PM

Get Eastwoods rust encapsulator. I read a magazine test that put it ahead of Por-15 for ease of application, durability, and UV resistance.

I've used Por-15 and been happy with it, but it's not fun to work with.

4x4Poet · 09-16-2005, 12:26 AM

I'm down to two methods:

1. Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator with Extreme Chassis Coat Gloss Black topcoat.

2. POR15 with Extreme Chassis Gloss Blk applied within 3-5 hours when the POR15 gets tacky, but not yet dry. Then the Chassis Blk will stick without scuffing the POR15 and will provide the UV protection that POR15 needs.

Rust Encapsulator is easier to apply, by far. The POR15 probably provides more film strength, which is why I use it on axles where pebbles will try to chip the finish. Regular Chassis Coat sucks compared to Extreme Chassis Coat.

Musclerodz · 09-16-2005, 12:28 AM

I powdercoated mine and was cheaper than painting it. It I was going to paint it I would use the same paint I would paint the outside of the truck with.

Mike

raidermanny · 09-16-2005, 02:06 AM

I used chassis black gloss on my frame. Couldn't have been easier to apply and looks good. The only place I had any rust was my rearend so thats the only spot I used the rust encapsulater but that was really easy also and once the chassis black went on it looked just like the rest of the frame.

jim walker · 09-16-2005, 07:32 AM

Du Voe (not sure of the spelling) Coatings semi gloss 2 part urethane finish. Have done 2 chassis` and they come out beautiful. Has just the right amount of sheen. Restored a chassis about 5 years ago with por 15 and it came out terrible. Drips and runs and difficult to spray. Stay away from it.

lowrider79 · 09-16-2005, 08:45 AM

I sandblasted my frame, Por 15 then top coated it. It turned out great. The Por 15 even applied with a brush flows out like it was sprayed.

Please read the Sticky message "What the hell happened" on the Paint & BODY forum before using anything. Por 15 and other products can pose cronic health risks.

lowrider79 · 09-16-2005, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim walker

Du Voe (not sure of the spelling) Coatings semi gloss 2 part urethane finish. Have done 2 chassis` and they come out beautiful. Has just the right amount of sheen. Restored a chassis about 5 years ago with por 15 and it came out terrible. Drips and runs and difficult to spray. Stay away from it.

That looks great!! I really like it. Nice trailer.

darrel_s · 09-16-2005, 09:17 AM

I used Por15 on mine after sandblasting. Applied it with a brush. Looks great but is a pain to clean up if you get it on anything else.

chevyguy_72 · 09-16-2005, 09:36 AM

i heard of some on using Line-X spray in bedliner on there frame. It is some new stuff that is thinner than regular bedliner and is rubberized so it resists moisture. also if you dent it, it won't chip it flexes.

BubbaGreen · 09-16-2005, 10:20 AM

I used Eastwoods EXTREME chassis black satin and the recommended primer, so far, I am totally impressed -and- it can be recoated later without too much prework.

Russell · 09-16-2005, 10:34 AM

I brushed Zero Rust on to my frame, and I'm quite happy with it!

Its a softer coating, so if you hit it with something, it doesn't chip, and is very easily re-coated for touchups. Also FAR safter to apply than POR-15

I didn't spend a pheonominal amount of time on prep. I just went over everything with the angle grinder and in some places with the sand blaster, and any of the old coating that wouldn't come off, I simply coated over-top (thats what some of the rough stuff on the pass side rail is).

You can see further back on the driver's side what I was coating over-top.

Its been several months, and there is no indication of anything lifting, or peeling off. Infact, if the coating gets wet, the water just beads on it, and sits there for days until I wipe it off (too cold now for water to easily evaporate)

tomatocity · 09-16-2005, 11:50 AM

I am going to try Rust Doctor + Grease Doctor on the back half of the frame and underside of the bed. I have used POR15 before with a 50-50 opinion. Since it is available in my area I like the idea of powder coating though have not priced it. The next truck will be sandblasted and powdercoated.

Question: I see people saying they sandblast the frame and paint it with POR15. This I don't understand why sandblast and use a rust bonding paint. POR stands for Paint On Rust. Does POR15, Eastwood, or any of the other brands prevent rust from forming with rust inhibitors? Just a question and not a judgement.

lowrider79 · 09-16-2005, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomatocity

I am going to try Rust Doctor + Grease Doctor on the back half of the frame and underside of the bed. I have used POR15 before with a 50-50 opinion. Since it is available in my area I like the idea of powder coating though have not priced it. The next truck will be sandblasted and powdercoated.

Question: I see people saying they sandblast the frame and paint it with POR15. This I don't understand why sandblast and use a rust bonding paint. POR stands for Paint On Rust. Does POR15, Eastwood, or any of the other brands prevent rust from forming with rust inhibitors? Just a question and not a judgement.

Smoother finish.

cdowns · 09-16-2005, 01:45 PM

i'm not afraid to paint over the rust but what i've found with most rust products by whoever is that you get your peeling and blisters from the areas that have remnants of the original paint the more prep work the better the final finish and i've got a blaster so why not use it

tomatocity · 09-16-2005, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

i'm not afraid to paint over the rust but what i've found with most rust products by whoever is that you get your peeling and blisters from the areas that have remnants of the original paint the more prep work the better the final finish and i've got a blaster so why not use it

After I got out of the military (100 years ago) I worked as a sandblaster so I can understand the reason for the clean metal. What I don't understand is the use of expensive paint like POR15 and the likes when you have already removed the rust. Unless these paints have rust inhibitors to prevent rust it seems unnecessary to use them after sandblasting the frame. Wouldn't sandblasting, prime and paint or powdercoat be as effective?

Stroker · 09-16-2005, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomatocity

After I got out of the military (100 years ago) I worked as a sandblaster so I can understand the reason for the clean metal. What I don't understand is the use of expensive paint like POR15 and the likes when you have already removed the rust. Unless these paints have rust inhibitors to prevent rust it seems unnecessary to use them after sandblasting the frame. Wouldn't sandblasting, prime and paint or powdercoat be as effective?

I agree!!

It's hard to say what the best product would be for this situation with out knowing all the details.

What's the intended use of the truck after it's complete? Working truck, off roading, show truck, daily driver weekend cruiser?

What kind of budget do you have to work with?

Are you doing all the work yourself? If so what equipment do you have available? Sandblaster, spay equipment, safety equipment, ect...

jamesi20 · 09-16-2005, 09:09 PM

I sprayed mine with dp90 epoxy primer.It was sandblasted first and it turned out the satin black that I was looking for.Everything I have read about the epoxy primers has been good as far as durability.I also did my utility trailer with the same epoxy primer and it has been sitting outside in the rain,snow,sun,you name it,for four years now and it still looks like the day I painted it.If you want a high gloss tho this is not the way to go but I would still use it as a base.

rmrtndl · 09-16-2005, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowrider79

Please read the Sticky message "What the hell happened" on the Paint & BODY forum before using anything. Por 15 and other products can pose cronic health risks.

I just finished reading it. I will definitely be wearing a respirator whatever I end up using.

4x4Poet · 09-17-2005, 05:28 AM

Using POR15 on a sandblasted metal will be smooth, as mentioned, but POR15 also sticks well to metal with "tooth." And POR15 has a film strength worth considering, whether being used over rust or blasted metal.

jim walker · 09-17-2005, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomatocity

After I got out of the military (100 years ago) I worked as a sandblaster so I can understand the reason for the clean metal. What I don't understand is the use of expensive paint like POR15 and the likes when you have already removed the rust. Unless these paints have rust inhibitors to prevent rust it seems unnecessary to use them after sandblasting the frame. Wouldn't sandblasting, prime and paint or powdercoat be as effective?

I agree,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

cdowns · 09-17-2005, 10:00 AM

powder coating is real real nice about $500worth/ getting nice epoxey primer and finish coat is also real real nice ,quart of primer,quart of top coat reducers catalst thinners etc maybe $150-$200//using the real expensive POR 15 paint less than $50

my trucks are always driven so if i've got the frame coated with red clay mud from haulin stuff i like to power wash it off the POR 15 at 10% the cost of powder holds up well to this type of longtermabuse reg paint will not hold up like that. i've had frames painted in POR15 after 5years of heavy real world everyday highway use with just a powerwash look like it was painted yesterday

rmrtndl · 09-17-2005, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

i've had frames painted in POR15 after 5years of heavy real world everyday highway use with just a powerwash look like it was painted yesterday

Have you had any problem with the color fading or having a milky appearance?

I have read POR-15 is UV sensitive. I don't think the frame will get any direct sunlight (insert witty comment about rolling the truck here). Anyone know if indirect light will cause fading etc?

A local guy used POR-15 on his frame ('67 Ford). It looks awesome and finish appears very durable. He is very pleaseed with the results so far.

llama · 09-17-2005, 01:36 PM

I used Rust Shield by Sem. bought at auto paint shop. Brushed it on and it is very smooth and seems to be very durable. Used the gloss black.

09-15-2005, 10:55 PM	#1
rmrtndl Hey ya'll, Watch this! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 117	Looking for product recommendations for painting the frame I am about ready to restore the frame of my '72 GMC. I am considering POR-15, Rust Bullet, Eastwoods Chassis Black, and good old Black epoxy primer. I am looking for product recommendations. Please share success stories for any products you are happy with and how they have weathered over time. Thanks folks __________________ Rick M. 72 GMC SWB Fleetside 25 Chevrolet Superior Series Truck 95 Mazda Miata 06 Dodge Charger RT http://ram92.ods.org/blog.html

09-15-2005, 11:07 PM	#3
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Get Eastwoods rust encapsulator. I read a magazine test that put it ahead of Por-15 for ease of application, durability, and UV resistance. I've used Por-15 and been happy with it, but it's not fun to work with. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

09-16-2005, 12:26 AM	#4
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	I'm down to two methods: 1. Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator with Extreme Chassis Coat Gloss Black topcoat. 2. POR15 with Extreme Chassis Gloss Blk applied within 3-5 hours when the POR15 gets tacky, but not yet dry. Then the Chassis Blk will stick without scuffing the POR15 and will provide the UV protection that POR15 needs. Rust Encapsulator is easier to apply, by far. The POR15 probably provides more film strength, which is why I use it on axles where pebbles will try to chip the finish. Regular Chassis Coat sucks compared to Extreme Chassis Coat. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

09-16-2005, 12:28 AM	#5
Musclerodz Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 2,365	I powdercoated mine and was cheaper than painting it. It I was going to paint it I would use the same paint I would paint the outside of the truck with. Mike __________________ Mike Redpath

09-16-2005, 07:32 AM	#7
jim walker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 156	Du Voe (not sure of the spelling) Coatings semi gloss 2 part urethane finish. Have done 2 chassis` and they come out beautiful. Has just the right amount of sheen. Restored a chassis about 5 years ago with por 15 and it came out terrible. Drips and runs and difficult to spray. Stay away from it. Attached Images

09-15-2005, 11:05 PM	#2
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,524	Por 15 works good but follow the directions exactly or it will not work well. Finicky but you can brush it on and it looks good. I did the entire inside of my 66 fastback with this stuff and inside the quarters and all. Works good.

09-16-2005, 02:06 AM	#6
raidermanny Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fremont, Ca Posts: 260	I used chassis black gloss on my frame. Couldn't have been easier to apply and looks good. The only place I had any rust was my rearend so thats the only spot I used the rust encapsulater but that was really easy also and once the chassis black went on it looked just like the rest of the frame.

09-16-2005, 08:45 AM	#8
lowrider79 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Shakopee Minnesota Posts: 174	I sandblasted my frame, Por 15 then top coated it. It turned out great. The Por 15 even applied with a brush flows out like it was sprayed. Please read the Sticky message "What the hell happened" on the Paint & BODY forum before using anything. Por 15 and other products can pose cronic health risks. Last edited by lowrider79; 09-16-2005 at 08:47 AM.

09-16-2005, 09:17 AM	#10
darrel_s Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Denver, CO, USA Posts: 212	I used Por15 on mine after sandblasting. Applied it with a brush. Looks great but is a pain to clean up if you get it on anything else.

09-16-2005, 09:36 AM	#11
chevyguy_72 Vintage Evil Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Broomfield, CO Posts: 956	i heard of some on using Line-X spray in bedliner on there frame. It is some new stuff that is thinner than regular bedliner and is rubberized so it resists moisture. also if you dent it, it won't chip it flexes. __________________ Current Rides: Vintage Evil - 72 Chevy C10 (Always a work in progress) Vintage Evil Build Thread EvilK5 - 71 K5 Blazer Evil Twin - 2006 Suzuki M109R EvilDmax- 2018 GMC 2500 Denali Duramax

09-16-2005, 10:20 AM	#12
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	I used Eastwoods EXTREME chassis black satin and the recommended primer, so far, I am totally impressed -and- it can be recoated later without too much prework. __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

09-16-2005, 10:34 AM	#13
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I brushed Zero Rust on to my frame, and I'm quite happy with it! Its a softer coating, so if you hit it with something, it doesn't chip, and is very easily re-coated for touchups. Also FAR safter to apply than POR-15 I didn't spend a pheonominal amount of time on prep. I just went over everything with the angle grinder and in some places with the sand blaster, and any of the old coating that wouldn't come off, I simply coated over-top (thats what some of the rough stuff on the pass side rail is). You can see further back on the driver's side what I was coating over-top. Its been several months, and there is no indication of anything lifting, or peeling off. Infact, if the coating gets wet, the water just beads on it, and sits there for days until I wipe it off (too cold now for water to easily evaporate) Attached Images __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) Last edited by Russell; 09-16-2005 at 10:35 AM.

09-16-2005, 11:50 AM	#14
tomatocity Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento CA Posts: 1,255	I am going to try Rust Doctor + Grease Doctor on the back half of the frame and underside of the bed. I have used POR15 before with a 50-50 opinion. Since it is available in my area I like the idea of powder coating though have not priced it. The next truck will be sandblasted and powdercoated. Question: I see people saying they sandblast the frame and paint it with POR15. This I don't understand why sandblast and use a rust bonding paint. POR stands for Paint On Rust. Does POR15, Eastwood, or any of the other brands prevent rust from forming with rust inhibitors? Just a question and not a judgement. __________________ Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.

09-16-2005, 01:45 PM	#16
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	i'm not afraid to paint over the rust but what i've found with most rust products by whoever is that you get your peeling and blisters from the areas that have remnants of the original paint the more prep work the better the final finish and i've got a blaster so why not use it __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

09-16-2005, 09:09 PM	#19
jamesi20 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NORTHEAST OHIO Posts: 493	I sprayed mine with dp90 epoxy primer.It was sandblasted first and it turned out the satin black that I was looking for.Everything I have read about the epoxy primers has been good as far as durability.I also did my utility trailer with the same epoxy primer and it has been sitting outside in the rain,snow,sun,you name it,for four years now and it still looks like the day I painted it.If you want a high gloss tho this is not the way to go but I would still use it as a base.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

09-17-2005, 05:28 AM	#21
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Using POR15 on a sandblasted metal will be smooth, as mentioned, but POR15 also sticks well to metal with "tooth." And POR15 has a film strength worth considering, whether being used over rust or blasted metal. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

09-17-2005, 10:00 AM	#23
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	powder coating is real real nice about $500worth/ getting nice epoxey primer and finish coat is also real real nice ,quart of primer,quart of top coat reducers catalst thinners etc maybe $150-$200//using the real expensive POR 15 paint less than $50 my trucks are always driven so if i've got the frame coated with red clay mud from haulin stuff i like to power wash it off the POR 15 at 10% the cost of powder holds up well to this type of longtermabuse reg paint will not hold up like that. i've had frames painted in POR15 after 5years of heavy real world everyday highway use with just a powerwash look like it was painted yesterday __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

09-17-2005, 01:36 PM	#25
llama Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: northern IL. Posts: 263	I used Rust Shield by Sem. bought at auto paint shop. Brushed it on and it is very smooth and seems to be very durable. Used the gloss black.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.