longer studs on brake rotors and drums? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72 longhorn BB · 09-21-2005, 07:31 AM

Hey there gang, I am looking at putting on a set of 2003 aluminum rims on my 3/4 ton, C-20. The thickness of the aluminum rims are taking up alot more thread depth than the steel ones, but I still think I will have enough threads for the lug nuts.

The question is, if I want to use spacer plates to widen the vehicles stance, I will surely lose all the remaining exposed threads on the studs.

Is it possible to replace the OEM studs with 1" longer studs so I can use the plate, thicker aluminum wheels and still have enough thread for the lug nuts?

68C15 · 09-21-2005, 08:06 AM

I highly recommend against any spacers. ideally the center of the wheel should be over the inner wheel bearing. any further out & you are asking for trouble with parts wearing out MUCH faster & poor handling.

Fred T · 09-21-2005, 10:56 AM

Wheel studs can be replaced with longer ones. You need a press to do the job right. I can't recall just where to buy them, but figure around $3-4 a stud, and with 32 studs.... With spacers, the use of anything over 1/4" is not recommended without going to a bolt-on spacer, that is one that has a set of holes for bolting the spacer to the hub on short lugs and a set of studs in the spacer to bolt the wheel on.

Like 68 C15 said, spacers can screw up the way a vehicle handles, especially when you move the tires outside of where the originals sat.

Frizzle Fry · 09-21-2005, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68C15

I highly recommend against any spacers. ideally the center of the wheel should be over the inner wheel bearing. any further out & you are asking for trouble with parts wearing out MUCH faster & poor handling.

Don't run spacers for a wider stance. But, I'm running wheel adapters to go from 5x5 to 5x4.75 and there is no issue. That said, I paid almost $200 for them to be made at a SEMA award winning machine shop and they run hub-centric. The wear on the bearings is equal to the wear that would be induced by a similar wheel offset.

Why pay $200 for adaptors? Because the wheels were nearly free

4x4Poet · 09-24-2005, 04:22 AM

Do you have 9/16" studs?

If so, I've read that DRW studs are longer which would accomodate thicker rims on SRW hubs. I've found that both BTB and Carquest can order Dorman studs. I'd expect that a good parts man could cross ref your oem stud size to a longer one that has the right amount of unthreaded shank length.

That's the trick. Gettin longer studs in the same size (i.e., 9/16") & thread pitch is easy. Getting longer studs with threads that start right where the stud exits the hub/drum/rotor combo is the tricky part.

For my K20's H052 axle hub, I recently purchased some Dorman 9/16" studs thru Carquest with this part # on the receipt:
DOR 610-190

09-21-2005, 07:31 AM	#1
72 longhorn BB Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Michigan Posts: 312	longer studs on brake rotors and drums? Hey there gang, I am looking at putting on a set of 2003 aluminum rims on my 3/4 ton, C-20. The thickness of the aluminum rims are taking up alot more thread depth than the steel ones, but I still think I will have enough threads for the lug nuts. The question is, if I want to use spacer plates to widen the vehicles stance, I will surely lose all the remaining exposed threads on the studs. Is it possible to replace the OEM studs with 1" longer studs so I can use the plate, thicker aluminum wheels and still have enough thread for the lug nuts? __________________ Chuck 1972 C-20 Longhorn 402 BB .030" over (409?), curved HEI, RV cam, quadrajet, dual 3" exhaust, TH 400 ported w/shift kit 1999 K1500 Suburban (old style) 5.7L Vortec 4L60E "No matter where you go, ........ there you are"

09-21-2005, 08:06 AM	#2
68C15 blood type; Retumbo Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: next to my reloading bench Posts: 10,269	I highly recommend against any spacers. ideally the center of the wheel should be over the inner wheel bearing. any further out & you are asking for trouble with parts wearing out MUCH faster & poor handling. __________________ Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card

09-21-2005, 10:56 AM	#3
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Wheel studs can be replaced with longer ones. You need a press to do the job right. I can't recall just where to buy them, but figure around $3-4 a stud, and with 32 studs.... With spacers, the use of anything over 1/4" is not recommended without going to a bolt-on spacer, that is one that has a set of holes for bolting the spacer to the hub on short lugs and a set of studs in the spacer to bolt the wheel on. Like 68 C15 said, spacers can screw up the way a vehicle handles, especially when you move the tires outside of where the originals sat. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

09-24-2005, 04:22 AM	#5
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Do you have 9/16" studs? If so, I've read that DRW studs are longer which would accomodate thicker rims on SRW hubs. I've found that both BTB and Carquest can order Dorman studs. I'd expect that a good parts man could cross ref your oem stud size to a longer one that has the right amount of unthreaded shank length. That's the trick. Gettin longer studs in the same size (i.e., 9/16") & thread pitch is easy. Getting longer studs with threads that start right where the stud exits the hub/drum/rotor combo is the tricky part. For my K20's H052 axle hub, I recently purchased some Dorman 9/16" studs thru Carquest with this part # on the receipt: DOR 610-190 __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.



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