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Old 04-14-2002, 02:07 PM   #1
B-Town69
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Post Engine mods?

Hey i am thinking about rebuilding my engine this summer. Any ideas on what i should put in it like what cam, roller rockers, and so on. And how many HP will port and polish give me. Thanks for any input you give. Oh yeah i have a 350 with 350 turbo tranny.

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Old 04-14-2002, 02:48 PM   #2
Blackhawkdc
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Are you going for an all-out radically built small block? Or are you looking for just a mild build? What kinda horse is your goal? I just got done building a 420 hp .060 bored 350. But I've got over $3000 in parts alone. Or you can go with a mild build at a cost of just slightly over a stock rebuild. Let us know some more specifics and we'll see if we can help you out with some advice.


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Old 04-14-2002, 04:56 PM   #3
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blackhawk what did you do to get 420 hp?

compression?

race fuel?
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Old 04-14-2002, 06:50 PM   #4
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The more you stress the motor the more likely it will break. Be conservitive and spend your money on making it run smoother. Mild cam 204/216 somewhere around there, roller rockers, roller cam if you can afford it. Good pistons and a good set of rods, and real nice crank, steel if you can afford it. Don't scimp on the bearings, oil pump, or the machine work. A clean up port is all you need, if you port out the heads too much, make the runners too big, you will loose torque. 2.02 valve are good for high rpm but you don't need them if your running below 5 grand. Use the 1.94/1.60 they will give you pleanty and you don't run the risk of cracks between the seats. Just be smart on how you build it.

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71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

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Old 04-14-2002, 06:56 PM   #5
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B-town-
Some advice from my own experience, exercise caution on the parts you choose to put in your combination. I have seen a lot of happy guys that purchased the combo packages such as Jegs and Summit offer. Matched intakes/carbs/ and cams can help you out a lot. If you go for serious power you run into all sorts of expenses! Many times you lose driveability in the process. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

P.S.-- To quote a saying from Mad Max,--Speed is a question of money,...how fast do you want to go?

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Old 04-14-2002, 07:44 PM   #6
Dean23
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I'm running an L79 cam in my 350 it has 9.5 comp and ported cast heads. You can have hi performance or driveability, but you cant have both you have to figure out what is imprtant to you

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Old 04-14-2002, 08:35 PM   #7
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Go turbo, fuel injection, low compression (8's), strong bottom end, mild cam. Give you great driveability, and all the power you need, when time comes.

OK, I will get off my turbo soap box.

Like stated before, need to know what you are looking to achieve, and how much you want to spend. I spent $5k on my engine in my 67 camaro, it is making 440hp (going to add twin turbos GRIN) but isn't very good daily driver, although I have before.

Sky is limit, need to know the goals first though.



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Old 04-14-2002, 10:00 PM   #8
KO
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Here's another angle. Buy a crate motor. I've built several motors over the years my last about 3 years back, I spent more doing it myself than buying a crate motor. They range from stock to wild. There's several places building motors at reasonable prices, just run a search and you'll see. Scoggins/Dickey and Speedomotive are a few i can think of off the top of my head. I currently have a GM performance 350HO in my 72 C20 and love it, the motor runs great.

Of course if you're looking for the experience of building a motor by all means go for it, there's nothing like completing a motor, firing it up and thinking "Holy Crap" it actually runs!!!

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Old 04-14-2002, 10:32 PM   #9
Blackhawkdc
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704x4 - I got 420 horse out of my small block by boring it 60 over. KB flat top pistons, 487x heads ported, slightly polished with 2.05/1.94 valves, compression is sitting around 9.24:1, cam is a lunati BMII 292 duration. Torker II intake, 2 inch carb spacer and a Edelbrock 750 carb. I'll be running 92 octane in her. As soon as I get her installed in the truck, I'll try to post some pictures. I got a set of matching aluminum valve covers and air cleaner, got flames milled into them that I painted orange. Oh and the crank is a GM forged steel with Eagle I-beam rods. All balenced with in 1 gram. She's gonna scream, as soon as the body shop gets done shooting the engine compartment.

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1992 Chevrolet S10 4x4 "Lil' Blue"
1969 Chev C10 Stepside "Steppie"

Custom exhaust artist




[This message has been edited by Blackhawkdc (edited April 14, 2002).]
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1969 Chev Short Step
425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck
1979 Pontiac Trans Am
1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free)
1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale

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Old 04-14-2002, 10:52 PM   #10
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B-Town69, First take a realist look at how you will be using your truck and your budget. Daily transportation, weekend cruiser, race, towing, is mileage a consideration, ect.... Today with all the aftermarket parts available nearly anything can be built if your wallet is thick enough, reliable and streetable 500-600hp engines can be built. Give a us little more information about your usage of the truck and what you have in the way of parts and budget to work with....Stroker
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Old 04-14-2002, 11:22 PM   #11
BUXMAN66
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if you do decide to build your own, you can't go wrong w/ a engineered performance pkg. holley makes one, edelbrock has a killer pkg. in several different levels of performance and affordability.slam33 said it best remember DRIVEABILITY!! cant stress that term enuff! many guy's go for the lumpy cam, then later can't stand it from a reliability stand-point. get a pkg. that matches your torque converter also, or all the sexy stuff under the hood wil be worth nothin' 'cause now you have to drop the tranny and replace the converter!good luck! and keep us posted!

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'68 swb 350/350 w/edelbrock total performance-performer pkg.ceramic headers,2.5" delta-flow 40 series flowmstrs.no rust of the notorious mid-west on this one! see my truck at free photo-i under "'68 chevy truck"

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Old 04-15-2002, 12:41 PM   #12
B-Town69
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I found a guy to rebuild my engine for $600 plus whatever parts i want to add on. I need to have it reliable enough to drive to my college next year (baseball scholarship!!). The college is only like a hour and 30 min. away, so i can still go with some good perforamce. I am looking to spend about $900-1200 for just my parts. What do you think i should get? I found some Vortech heads from a friend of mine how much of an increase would that give me?

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[This message has been edited by B-Town69 (edited April 17, 2002).]
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Old 04-15-2002, 04:22 PM   #13
BigDave
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Blackhawkdc posted on April 14, 2002 10:32
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
704x4 - I got 420 horse out of my small block by boring it 60 over. KB flat top pistons, 487x heads ported, slightly polished with 2.05/1.94 valves, compression is sitting around 9.24:1, cam is a lunati BMII 292 duration. Torker II intake, 2 inch carb spacer and a Edelbrock 750 carb. I'll be running 92 octane in her. As soon as I get her installed in the truck, I'll try to post some pictures. I got a set of matching aluminum valve covers and air cleaner, got flames milled into them that I painted orange. Oh and the crank is a GM forged steel with Eagle I-beam rods. All balenced with in 1 gram. She's gonna scream, as soon as the body shop gets done shooting the engine compartment
Damn, guy that sounds pretty close to the set-up I'm running in my Blazer. It's a hell of a lot of fun and very streetable. Kudos on the cam choice too. I've been very happy with mine.

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1972 Chevy Blazer 2WD - 400 SBC, bored, ported/polished heads, 9.5:1 dished pistons, Lunati 480/292 cam, electronic ignition, Edlebrock Performer intake, tricked out Rochester 850CFM Quadrajet, long tube headers, Flowmaster 40's, TH350-C with lock-up switch, 2800 rpm stall, shift kit, custom driveshaft, stock GM 12- bolt rear with Auburn Pro Series limited slip 3.73's, 2" drop spindles, 2" drop rear coils, track bar kit, front/rear stabilizers.

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