A punch list of problems on my truck...

[Derrickbwg]

I just recently got the truck and it has numerous things wrong with it that I am trying to correct. Here is a list of my problems now that I would welcome any suggestions on what's wrong and how to fix:
When I put the truck in gear it wants to creep forward unless you really stand on the brakes, then the brake pedal gets softer and softer and ultimately ends on the floor(takes about 45 seconds) and then the "brake" lamp in the dash comes on. Let off of the pedal and press again and it's back to normal and the light goes out but will consistently repeat the same procedure. Bad master cylinder?
The dash light on the far right will not work, is there an fix to a bad printed circuit because everything else works great? Any way to check to make sure that is the problem?
The blower fan works on the first two settings but the third "high" setting actually goes slower. Is that a bad blower motor pulling to much or the switch?
I'd appreciate any advice...Thanks!

[farside847]

Hmmm, Ill take the easy one. The dash light is probably just a bulb. I would try replacing it first .

[Derrickbwg]

not a bulb, I swapped a few that were working and a couple new ones that I got, no dice.

[neonlarry]

First one sounds like a bad master cyl. The heater blower problem is probably either the high speed relay(behind the glove box, upper right) or the blower resistor(in the ducting between heater box and firewall). It could also be a burnt out switch.

[guyryan100]

Here's the way to test the master - the right way.

1. Remove the front brake line from the master cyl and replace it with a plug. Keep fluid in front and rear cyl.

2. Test brake pedal (don't put the truck in gear).

2a. If the pedal stays firm, your problem is in your front brake lines or front cylinders

3. If pedal still sinks, do the same with the rear line - replace with a plug.

3a. If pedal stays firm now, problem is in rear brake lines or rear cylinders.

4. If pedal still sinks, problem is master cylinder.

When doing this or any brake work keep in mind that brake fluid a wonderful paint remover. Any thing it drips on will be paint-free very quickly. If you drip it on your paint flush with lots of water. Don't rub it with a rag!!

[Old Yeller 1970]

More than likely you have a bad master cylinder. The only other way is if you have a leak such as the rear wheel cylinders which are prone to leak. Be sure to pull the tires and brake drum off and look for brake fluid leaks. Also, check your front calipers for leaks. If you don't see any leaks I'd say it's the mastercylinder.

Wonder why you have to stand on the brakes to keep it from moving when it's in gear. Is your engine idling too high? Or are you just not generating any braking pressure?

I can sympathize with the light not working. I have a burned curcuit on my dash board causing the same problem. Old Yeller's going to the paint shop in a couple of weeks at which point I'll pull the bezel and solder it back together.

[Hutch]

Derrickbwg
The fan issue might be the ground to the high-speed relay, mine was broke and I had the same results.
Easy test is to touch a temporary ground to the relay while the switch is on high and see if that is it.
The relay is behind the glove box on the passenger side of the heater plenum and pretty high up on the firewall.
The ground wires tend to get broken or left unhooked when you are replacing the heater core. Sometimes it is attached to a painted surface that does not supply a ground.
The wire is a short black one and is pretty easy to identify as being a ground.