Need painter's help!!

[garthdader]

3 questions for the experts:

1) Do I really need a 400 dollar dryer/ dessicant system for air or is there a cheaper way to do it the right way, without too much expense?

2) I NEED to lay down a good coat of primer and sealer. I have a cheapo lowes gun and a gti millinnium. Devilbiss says that the GTI gun can shoot k-38 but I really dont want to use it for primer. Can I use the cheapo ( only a 1.5 nozzle) or should I get a gravity feed gun with a bigger nozzle?

3) What would be a good clearcoat choice for BC/CC system for a truck that might go on the trail once and a while with all the tree and brush. Is one clear tougher than another or do I just do additional coats?

THANKS!

[ChevLoRay]

I ain't no expert, so no help here. But, these are good questions for us.

[redhead69]

you'd get a better responce in the paint and body section.

[Premium72]

are you just painting the one truck? if so just get a small inline dryer, and get a devilbus wirlwind for your gun.
the syphon gun should be fine for the primer..its what i use.

ppg has a good cheep clear that is actually pretty good. its OMNI quick clear. is what i use on most of the bikes i do.

oh an i paint bikes as a side job...a side job that i do more than my real one..haha. if you got any more questions drop me an email..

urbanlayers01@aol.com

[Fred T]

Here is a link to one of the best series of articles that I've found on painting.
www.autobodystore.com/bofb.htm

[gonebad2]

You can easily get by with an inline dryer. Some people call it a waterball. It screws inline on the air inlet of your gun.

A 1.5 nozzle should be ok to shoot K38. If your body / bodywork is real good, you should easily get by with using K36. It's virtually the same stuff...It just doesn't have as much build and is a littler thinner because it has less solids. Just follow the instructions on the quantity of reducer. If it's hot out, give it a little more reducer.

You can't go wrong with PPG concept clear. It's really tough when mixed properly with the correct amounts of reducer and hardner. Omni is PPG's lower end line. I generally stay away from it. I would go with a higher end clear with only three coats as opposed to a cheaper product and thicker coats. You can run into problems if you lay the clear on too thick. Not only runs but solvent popping. Follow the manufacturers instructions and you will be on the right track.

You can use Omni base with the Concept clear. Some people do this to lower the cost of a paint job. I normally use DBU base. The colors are more "true" and deeper.

[Musclerodz]

This should be in the paint and body section but here it goes....

1. don't need it unless you plan to do it for a living. Just get a couple inline water filters and make sure to drain the tank.

2. cheapo gun for primer is fine but a 1.5 cap won't cut it. You need a bigger air cap to lay down primer.

3. additional coats will be your only protection from brush so you will have a cushion to buff.

Mike

[Premium72]

yeah..the omni is the cheep stuff. i do a lot of race bikes.. so it doesnt matter they dont last that long..hahaha..but any thing ppg is good depont also...just depend on your budget..good luck.

[garthdader]

Thanks for the help everyone. Has anyone ever heard of paint shops renting their booths? I am just wondering what is involved, the price and what equipment of my own I will need.

[4x4Poet]

If you rent a booth, the shop might have all the air filtering stuff already installed in their air supply system. I just mention it because what the shop already has might save you some purchases. No need for duplication if what the shop has is both adequate and affordable compared to purchasing your own.