The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-13-2005, 11:33 PM   #1
5150
C10 Club Tennessee
 
5150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: White House, TN 37188
Posts: 8,281
Changing out the gears?

How difficult is this to do? Just wanting to know what it takes to change out the guts.
__________________
Bryan

www.gmtruckshow.com

Project "Andes"-Halen's First Truck

Project: Patina Burb

for he is God’s servant for your good. But if you do wrong, be afraid, for he does not bear the sword in vain. For he is the servant of God, an avenger who carries out God’s wrath on the wrongdoer. Romans 13:4
5150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 12:03 AM   #2
69TowRig
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 894
I'm assuming you mean the rear axle gears. They aren't that difficult, but you have to have the right tools, the right workspace, and lots of patience.

At a minimum you need a press, a micrometer, dial indicator w/mag base, inch-lb torque wrench, the proper socket for the pinion yoke nut, a complete install kit, and a marking compound or white grease, soft-faced hammer, along with all the normal hand tools.

There are a lot of good sites online that have information pertaining to individual axles and gears. Usually the gear manufacturer will supply a brief tech sheet for installing the particular gear set you purchase.

I have set up a few differentials, they take some time to do it right but it's worth it in the end. If you have the access to the tools or you think you will do more of that sort of thing then it's not a bad job at all. I have not done a GM axle yet, I've done a couple different Nissan axles and a Ford 9", but generally speaking all the concepts carry over from one to the next. You can save yourself a lot of money in the long run by doing it yourself, but if you mess it up it can cost you more, so choose wisely.
__________________
-Chris
Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid.
Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals...
69TowRig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 07:34 AM   #3
special-K
Special Order

 
special-K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,858
Now there are "set-up" bearings available.They are "mock" bearings that slip on and off without a press making the process alot less industrious.I`d put differential assembly in a more advanced mechanic category.It`s definately not a bolt-on/parts switch deal.
__________________
"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed"

GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project)
GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling)
Tim

"Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman"

R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~
special-K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 10:35 AM   #4
cdowns
Senior Member
 
cdowns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
i've found about the easiest way to change gears is to drop it off in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane

MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF

DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK

TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY
cdowns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 01:10 PM   #5
67chevemall
Registered User
 
67chevemall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
I bought some 3:08's on the board and they are just sitting in a box.
I would like to do this too someday!
I guess you have to take the whole axcel out of the truck?
__________________
1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside
1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold
1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD
67chevemall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 04:14 PM   #6
67Fleet
Outlandish Trends - FL
 
67Fleet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67chevemall
I guess you have to take the whole axcel out of the truck?
Yes, and that's the easiest part....
I wouldn't mess with the rear-end gears unless you have good mechanical experience. The last thing you want is to get it all back together and have your rear end spit its guts a mile from your house because you didn't get everything perfectly aligned.
__________________
-Bret
67 short-fleet sold!
67Fleet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 04:52 PM   #7
69TowRig
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 894
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Fleet
I wouldn't mess with the rear-end gears unless you have good mechanical experience. The last thing you want is to get it all back together and have your rear end spit its guts a mile from your house because you didn't get everything perfectly aligned.
That's kind of where the patience comes in. You have to start somewhere, but you have to take your time and double-check everything to do it right.

I had not seen those set-up bearings before. I went and looked up Precision Gears offering. Those are awesome! I will have to get them for the next axle I do.
__________________
-Chris
Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid.
Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals...
69TowRig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 05:29 PM   #8
bigcdawg99
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 67
You definately need a good factory assembly manual. They have very detailed diagrams that make it much easier. However, I do agree with cdowns on the easiest way to do it. IMO its also a good idea to have a pro do it if you hammer on the gas pedal as much as most of us do.
__________________
71 GMC Shortbed Fleetside (under construction)

"I like guns. You got a gun, you don't have to work out."

Chris Rock
bigcdawg99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 06:09 PM   #9
LUV2XCLR8
The LuvShack Garage
 
LUV2XCLR8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,482
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69TowRig
I'm assuming you mean the rear axle gears. They aren't that difficult, but you have to have the right tools, the right workspace, and lots of patience.

At a minimum you need a press, a micrometer, dial indicator w/mag base, inch-lb torque wrench, the proper socket for the pinion yoke nut, a complete install kit, and a marking compound or white grease, soft-faced hammer, along with all the normal hand tools.



AND

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcdawg99
You definately need a good factory assembly manual. They have very detailed diagrams that make it much easier.



It's also a 2 make sure your carrier will accept the gears you want,
I believe 3:73 and up verses 3:55? and down could be different carriers, if
you get the wrong thing the only thing that will help is lots of
__________________
Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers"
The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer
Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop
Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500
Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

Last edited by LUV2XCLR8; 10-14-2005 at 06:13 PM.
LUV2XCLR8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2005, 06:36 PM   #10
see ten
WTB this ad
 
see ten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lafayette Georgia
Posts: 5,074
I had my older brother change mine out while he was in Vocational school. The instructor double checked everything to make sure it was done correctly. It also helped my brother out as he needed the experience. They have a drivetrain portion of class and he used my truck for his project. It only cost me parts and a couple of days time. I know you went through a lot with a vo-tech school getting your truck painted, but this is a much simpler job. And the gears can be changed with the housing in the truck but the axle shafts will have to be slid out. If you have to pay someone expect at least $200 labor to be charged (that's what the last set I paid to have changed cost me locally). If you don't plan on doing a lot of gear changes and don't have the tools you will save money to just pay someone (or go the vo-tech school route). Good luck!
see ten is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com