Is it worth saving? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

muddpile · 10-14-2005, 12:44 AM

I am planning on ordering all new sheetmetal where it is needed for my truck, and began to question my project as I got into it. The truck has a good frame, powertrain, and box, but the rest is questionable. When do you give up and look for a different cab? Mine has rusted away pretty bad over the years, and here is a list of what's wrong:
-Rocker panels virtually rusted off (huge holes)
-Inner rockers are pretty swiss-cheesed
-Cab corners are basically gone (you can see the road from inside)
-Where the rocker meets the floor, there is a good inch of metal gone the length of the cab (the weatherstrip hangs in the gap)
-Both floorpans have a few holes towards the outside edges
-Three out of four cab supports have holes in them (just at the edges, nothing structural yet)
-Drivers kick panel is missing about the bottom inch or so

Thats all I can see, and I have the interior stripped out right to the metal. What's everyone think? Is it worth buying patch panels and welding it back together? Thanks!

tattoo · 10-14-2005, 02:33 AM

just realize its like a big model you get to put together and drive when your done. I ended up in the same boat, buying a truck that needs work and buying basically another truck in new and used parts to get it going. you have to think what are the odds you will find another cab in good shape, they are the hardest thing to find rust free, everything else you can find no prob. no rust. If you build your own cab you can take it with you from frame to frame( in case of accidents) are you building it to drive or show, know this, it will only go up in value if you do it right. I.ve had to replace it all but at least I know I will only have to do it once. (well on this cab, once more!)
I'm still at the stage of this photo myself, except i 'm only keeping the cab and swaping EVERYTHING else. I was only going to paint it and drive it till started working on it , now i cant stop replacing stuff that does not even need it.

muddpile · 10-14-2005, 03:01 AM

My plan is a daily driver hotrod when I'm done. It will be stock for the most part, with a few custom touches here and there. If I started cutting out rusty sheetmetal, I'd have something like what you have in your pic. My cab is good from the lower door trim up, its just a matter of the bottom stuff.

Rooster's 67 · 10-14-2005, 04:44 AM

well, i just bought a $150 cab and then spent $225 on new lower metal(floor pans,rockers,cabcorners,kick panels) but i got a solid cab as far as the window,overall floor, and cab suports................. and switched to a big back window in one fell swoop.
still got to spend the time to put the metal in. but i get to put it in so i know it is done right. and i know what i have for a cab from there on.

bobs409 · 10-14-2005, 06:51 AM

Save it. Your description sounds like many trucks out there. The rockers are the first to go on these I believe and it just spreads outward.

Once you get in there and get started, you'll see it's not much difference to replace a small section over a bigger one. It looks scary until you get going.

**special-K** · 10-14-2005, 06:53 AM

Bubbles in paint or see-through it`s all gotta get replaced.Go for it!

onetoncrewcab · 10-14-2005, 06:58 AM

I agree with everyone else here. What you have described is pretty typical of these trucks. Replacement panels are available for everything that you described, although I am not sure of the availability of the kick panel.

I'd save it if I was you.

Mike

muddpile · 10-14-2005, 01:50 PM

Looks like I'll be ordering my parts this weekend! The kick panels I can probably patch the little piece in from some scrap sheetmetal. It will get covered by either carpet or a speaker enclosure anyways. The rest of the bottom will be replaced. Thanks for the help everyone (before and after pics to follow).

55chevy · 10-14-2005, 08:09 PM

Mine is almost the same, and it's a southern truck. I took the rockers off and found bondo at the edges of the floor pans, bottom one inch of kickpanels rusted away, bottom of A pillars rusted. I may order inner panels, they are cheap enough, sheetmetal patch other places, I did get one back cab support but it looks like one of those covers.

LUV2XCLR8 · 10-14-2005, 08:55 PM

Save it, just ask GEE_EMM about rust repairs, it can't be any worse than his was

10-14-2005, 12:44 AM	#1
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Is it worth saving? I am planning on ordering all new sheetmetal where it is needed for my truck, and began to question my project as I got into it. The truck has a good frame, powertrain, and box, but the rest is questionable. When do you give up and look for a different cab? Mine has rusted away pretty bad over the years, and here is a list of what's wrong: -Rocker panels virtually rusted off (huge holes) -Inner rockers are pretty swiss-cheesed -Cab corners are basically gone (you can see the road from inside) -Where the rocker meets the floor, there is a good inch of metal gone the length of the cab (the weatherstrip hangs in the gap) -Both floorpans have a few holes towards the outside edges -Three out of four cab supports have holes in them (just at the edges, nothing structural yet) -Drivers kick panel is missing about the bottom inch or so Thats all I can see, and I have the interior stripped out right to the metal. What's everyone think? Is it worth buying patch panels and welding it back together? Thanks! __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

10-14-2005, 02:33 AM	#2
tattoo "Bondo, just say no!" Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Barrie Ontario Canada Posts: 75	theres hope just realize its like a big model you get to put together and drive when your done. I ended up in the same boat, buying a truck that needs work and buying basically another truck in new and used parts to get it going. you have to think what are the odds you will find another cab in good shape, they are the hardest thing to find rust free, everything else you can find no prob. no rust. If you build your own cab you can take it with you from frame to frame( in case of accidents) are you building it to drive or show, know this, it will only go up in value if you do it right. I.ve had to replace it all but at least I know I will only have to do it once. (well on this cab, once more!) I'm still at the stage of this photo myself, except i 'm only keeping the cab and swaping EVERYTHING else. I was only going to paint it and drive it till started working on it , now i cant stop replacing stuff that does not even need it. Attached Images __________________ "WORK NOW, SLEEP WHEN I'M DEAD, SPEND EVERY PENNY I MAKE" 69 C-10 SWB Stepside (ground up resto in progress) 86 Yugo 69 Honda pc50 moped see my work @ http://www.myspace.com/inkorperated free site for pics

10-14-2005, 03:01 AM	#3
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	My plan is a daily driver hotrod when I'm done. It will be stock for the most part, with a few custom touches here and there. If I started cutting out rusty sheetmetal, I'd have something like what you have in your pic. My cab is good from the lower door trim up, its just a matter of the bottom stuff. __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

10-14-2005, 04:44 AM	#4
Rooster's 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: DFW Posts: 765	well, i just bought a $150 cab and then spent $225 on new lower metal(floor pans,rockers,cabcorners,kick panels) but i got a solid cab as far as the window,overall floor, and cab suports................. and switched to a big back window in one fell swoop. still got to spend the time to put the metal in. but i get to put it in so i know it is done right. and i know what i have for a cab from there on. __________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

10-14-2005, 06:51 AM	#5
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	Save it. Your description sounds like many trucks out there. The rockers are the first to go on these I believe and it just spreads outward. Once you get in there and get started, you'll see it's not much difference to replace a small section over a bigger one. It looks scary until you get going. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

10-14-2005, 06:53 AM	#6
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,861	Bubbles in paint or see-through it`s all gotta get replaced.Go for it! __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

10-14-2005, 06:58 AM	#7
onetoncrewcab One of my kids. Cute eh? Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Mitchell, SD Posts: 1,286	I agree with everyone else here. What you have described is pretty typical of these trucks. Replacement panels are available for everything that you described, although I am not sure of the availability of the kick panel. I'd save it if I was you. Mike __________________ If a kid asks where rain comes from, I think a cute thing to tell him is “God is crying.” And if he asks why God is crying, another cute thing to tell him is “Probably because of something you did. John 3:16 2006 Chevy HHR 2000 Dodge Durango 1985 Jeep CJ-7 1970 Chevy Pickup

10-14-2005, 01:50 PM	#8
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Looks like I'll be ordering my parts this weekend! The kick panels I can probably patch the little piece in from some scrap sheetmetal. It will get covered by either carpet or a speaker enclosure anyways. The rest of the bottom will be replaced. Thanks for the help everyone (before and after pics to follow). __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

10-14-2005, 08:09 PM	#9
55chevy Car Truck Bike Nut Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Suffolk Virginia Posts: 850	Mine is almost the same, and it's a southern truck. I took the rockers off and found bondo at the edges of the floor pans, bottom one inch of kickpanels rusted away, bottom of A pillars rusted. I may order inner panels, they are cheap enough, sheetmetal patch other places, I did get one back cab support but it looks like one of those covers. __________________ Snow free Florida panhandle, don't miss Indiana winters Temp in Suffolk Virginia, Sentenced 2 to 5 years LOL 68 shortfleet project 94 3500 TD dually so many cars so little time 72 K2 CST 2WD Blazer

10-14-2005, 08:55 PM	#10
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,476	Save it, just ask GEE_EMM about rust repairs, it can't be any worse than his was __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T Last edited by LUV2XCLR8; 10-14-2005 at 08:56 PM.



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