Tailgate Power Window Problems,Still

[special-K]

I cleaned all contacts and used di-electric grease .Installed a new motor,no change.It won`t close all the way,all but 4".It`s the same result whether I use the dash switch or key in the tailgate switch.Any suggestions?

[a28doc]

did the tailgate get jammed somehow? it sounds like it is binding when it gets into the track in the cap
Doc

[blaserman]

When you installed the new motor did you make sure the gears were set on the last tooth so that when it closes it goes all the way. Thats what it sound like. I had the same problem with my old Blazer and found out that's what was wrong.

[special-K]

I`ll check the tooth alignment.It is doing the exact same thing as with the old motor.No change with new one installed.I have someone use the dash switch while I make sue the window rides in the weatherstrip channel,doesn`t change a thing.Before with the old motor,it would go up if you helped push it and sometimes on it`s own.Then got to the state it`s in,now.I`m going to clean the lower track out some more and put some lubricant on it.

[special-K]

Cleaned the track and lubed it,no change.It`ll raise a little,then stop.Turn key or push switch a couple times,it`ll go up a little more.But,not all the way.Same with going down,now.
Could it be tailgate/top alignment?
Or,could it be the jamb switch?I`m gettin`another one of those next.

[a28doc]

my guess still would be alignment like I mentioned earlier is your gate rusted at all? I know mine got really tuff to raise after the top of the gate got a little rusted it thru ther alignment off just enuff
Doc

[special-K]

No rust.The right side sits in a little from the body.The striker doesn`t adjust.How can I adjust that?It doesn`t appear to be binding in the top,but it isn`t lined up perfectly,either.I try guiding the glass and it doesn`t help.I really appreciate all the help.I feel like I`ve dialed 911 and am being instructed on saving someone`s life until paramedics arrive,lol.
When I turn the switch(or push)it`s totally non-responsive,like,every other time.It really seems electrical and since it`s the same fromt or back switch,I`ll try that jamb switch.But,this could be the alignment of tailgate to body,too.It can be moved in and out a little.

[bluize70]

Hey dude:

One way to tell if its too tight is to pull out the wetherstripping and see if the window goes to the top....if it does then you are binding somewhere...later man

[Big Block]

I just installed a tailgate with manual roll up window I had to adjust the tailgate latches that attach to the body so the window would not bind as it was going up. It may not be the problem but it stopped my binding when the window was about 3/4 of the way up. Good luck!

[special-K]

Thanks,I`ll try that.It`ll close now with me at the tailgate helping it past that bad spot.I tripped the latch with it open to raise the glass and get to what was behind it.I rerouted the cable and that helped a little.I`m definately replacing the tracks in the tailgate.The fuzz is worn of/rotted and that`ll help,too.

[72CSTC5]

Is your tailgate cracked in the corners like most of these are. I had an 82 2wd and the tailgate would flex in those areas causing alignment problems with the glass. I reinforced and welded the areas and repaired and reinstalled everything and presto, it worked like gravy baby. Check with N2TRUX too, I think he has one of these year models.

[1976K5CHALET]

I have found a couple of things over the years.
The regulator arms seem to bind on the regulator housing sometimes and
get this problem. Power regulators actually have a transmission that is bolted
to the regulator. You might try lossening those 3 screws andntweaking its alignment and see what happens.

Also the cable itself is kinda cheesey. Newer ones have a blue cable housing.
I'm thinking if an aftermarket company could make a new cable where the top of the cable housing makes its connection to piece that allows you to connect it to the motor could be made to stay mated longer the whole deal might actually work alot better because there is alot of torque present at that point when in operation.

Also a new design for the firewall junction would save alot ofresistance issues.
The current molded rubber with series 56 terminals sucks to put it lightly.
You might go to delphiauto.com and download there automotive catalog in pdf format. I'm sure a guy could find something that work better. That was my next step as i ran out of time so i just swapped in maual guts to get it fixed right away. I have found that with age the harness from the firewall to the rear gate has a habit of getting corrosion in the wire core turning the core black....and the jacket around the core gets brittle and cracks when handleing the harness along the frame creating resistance and shorts. Since the gate motor draws a lot of amperage to begin with any extra resistance in the circuit is magnified.

Guess one of these days i need to sit down and redesign that entire circuit and test it...

Doug W.