Blazer frame off....

[SLIMJIM]

Just wondering if anyone has a link, plans, or some pics of a homemade "tub stand" that I can make when I take this Blazer off the frame. I would preferably like to be able to have access to the underside with plenty of space to blast, etc.

And also, have any of you ever had your Blazer tub dipped? Since there is no roof, just wondering how one would go about hoisting it up. If you have pics of where you welded any braces to stiffen the cab for support, please post them.

And if you know of a good place to get body/electrical manuals for 70-72 2 wheel blazers, let me know. I've checked ebay but nothing there. Just the truck shop manual which is general stuff, nothing in depth. Thanks.

Curt

[LUV2XCLR8]

2 the board from west 10-uh-c

I know several here have done this, the tub removal thing,
not sure who it was but if they see this they will reply.

[71RestoRod]

Here's a link to how I lifted mine but I utilized the rafters in my garage... blasting in the garage would be hella messy. I had the tub blasted on the frame before I did the bodywork.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=176647

[SLIMJIM]

Amazing work. I wish I had a garage period. The truck is sitting at a friends house 22 miles away, and he has no garage either. It will all be done in the great outdoors

Curt

[SLIMJIM]

71Restorod,

I just read your reply in the "Cancer plan of attack thread". The suggestion about the bodymount replacements is a good one. However, I am kind of lucky in that I can literally shut the driver and passenger door with a soft two finger push and they snap shut in perfect alignment. So I trust that when you say replace the body mounts, you are talking about replacing them with the tub on the frame, one side at a time. It would be a bad idea being that this will be my first frame off to take the tub off twice.

I guess that considering that the truck is tight as it is (with only usual rust), I would just replace the rusty parts while the tub is on the frame. I would like to have the tub Alkilyd?/Electrolysis dipped, but like you said in your article, it would throw the alignment way off if the rusty parts aren't repaired first before you take it off the frame.

Anybody got pics of reinforcements they welded in their tub to keep it aligned even with the tub off the frame and the top off? Thanks.

Curt

[Tom Vogel]

If you have a chop saw and a stick welder, making a rotisserie is no big deal. Me and a buddy did it in a couple of days. If you take the body off, you will have to realign it which is also no real big deal/ that just involves shimming the body mounts. (they did that at the factory on all blazers). You should make a brace to go from the top of the bed rail to the door jam. Also, We media blasted ours on the rotisserie, and that woked great.
Good Luck, Tom from Paso Robles

[jhow66]

This may be of some help:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jason_burkhart/my_photos

[SLIMJIM]

Thanks for the info guys. I would love to have a rotisserie. Did you use a MIG or a TIG to assemble it? Still got the Plans?

Curt

[71RestoRod]

If your door and panel alignment is good to begin with, you are already at a good starting point. Just do everything you can to keep it that way during the restoration process. Take lots of measurements so that you have a reference when it comes time to line it back up.

I would record measurements from the top corners of the windshield frame to all over the place... top of the bedside, diagonally to the top of the other bedside, several places from the A-pillar to the B-pillar... depending on what gets replaced, often there is not much to go by once you dig into it. If you get into R&R on the rocker boxes and/or inner and outer rockers, you’ll be glad you did. Sounds like you have a good tub to begin with so a lot of this might not apply. On the other hand, it's extremely rare to find an original where at least the cab supports and rockers haven't rotted out.

I guess the point I was trying to make in the other post is that if the tub is out of alignment to begin with, it won't magically fall into place by replacing all the rusted metal. You need a good reference to work from.