Installing springs

[cliffsta]

Again, I know this is a "Suspension" topic but I would prefer specifics for 73-87. Today I am ordering new coil springs and leaf springs for my truck (1980 C10 stepside).

So in the back... I jack up the rear end on the differential? Take off the wheel, then um, what? I know I gotta remove those U bolts but as it's been a year since I was under the bed, I don't really remember exactly what it "looks" like. Also, is it hypothetically "easier" in the back since on a stepside the fender gives lots of room under there? Not that that opinion is crucial, just another thought I'd like expounded upon.

In the front... I jack it up to get the tire off and unweight the spring, then it twists? slides? out from the A arms?

And since the springs need to be compressed for the shocks to reach the I bolts, I put the wheels back on then change the shocks, correct?

Please, PLEASE help me. I know daddy hasn't done this before BUT he knows the general idea. He's not afraid to tear in to it with me, probably sunday? Not sure when yet since I"m haivng parties Saturday AND Sunday (it's 18th, i gotta go all out!)

Any info and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys and gals.

cliff

[Russell]

Rear springs are easy. Jack the truck up by the frame, not by the diff. pull the tire off, then slowly lower the frame until the center of the diff is about to touch the floor, then stick a jack stand under the frame as well, then do the other side. You want to make sure that it is very stable, cause you'll be wrenching on that thing pretty hard.

After that is done, just cut the u-bolts, its far easier than trying to back those nuts off, new ones are cheaper than dirt. If you've got one, use an impact gun to back off the front hanger bolt, and the rear hanger bolt. Sometimes you need a punch and a hammer to knock the bolt out. Toss those bolts in the trash too, and replace them with 8 grade bolts. After you cut the u-bolts the diff should have fallen the rest of the way down to the ground on that side, jack the frame up as needed to remove the old spring, then install the new spring right away with the new hardware. Bolt the diff back to the spring, and then go to the other side, and repeat. When you are done, jack the rear end back up by the diff, slide your tires on, and you are good to go!

Make sure you torque everything properly while you have it apart though, last thing you need is for one of those bolts to come apart on you, lol

No idea how to get the coils out, sorry!

[Slonaker]

I have not done my rear springs yet, but I have done the fronts twice.

On the front springs, assuming you are just replacing them (and the shocks) and nothing else, try this. Jack up the front end and support it on stands. Remove the wheels and shocks. Remove the cotter pin on one of the lower balljoints. Loosen the nut enough to create a little gap under it, but do NOT remove it. Make sure to leave plenty of threads holding it one because it will need to be able to take some abuse without ppping off. Take a BFH (big F'in Hammer) and beat on the side of the spindle where the lower ball joint goes through it.

Usually after a few swings, the balljoint will separate from the spindle. This is why you don't want to remove the nut all the way. The spring pushing down on the lower control arm helps push the two pieces apart, with the help of the BFH, and the nut on the lower balljoint keep everything from flying apart and killing you when the two separate.

From there, put a floor jack under the lower contol ar and lift the LCA up just enough to take the tension off the nut on the balljoint. Do all of this from the front of the truck, just to be safe. Remove the nut from the lower balljoint. (If you want to be extra safe, you can use a piece of chain to hold the spring in place in case it tries to fly out.) SLOWLY, from the front of the truck, lower the floor jack. This takes the tension off the spring, allowing it to just fall out.

To put the new coil in, first push the LCA down as far as it will go. Look at the pockets the spring fits into in the upper and lower contol arms. You can see that the small end of the spring goes up into the upper control arm, and it has to fit in the arms just right. When you get it oriented to match up to the control arms, slowly raise the LCA with the jack putting the new spring back under tension.

You can use the chain on this step as well if you like. This should be also be done from the front of the truck in case the spring decides to fly out the side. Line up the lower ball joint so that it pokes back through the hole in the spindle. When it pokes through, carefully thread the nut back onto the balljoint, replace the cotter pin, and remove the jack.

Lather, rinse, repeat, for the other side.

You can break the balljoint loose using a pickle fork, but that will break the rubber boot on the balljoint. Popping it from the side with a hammer leaves it intact.

You can easily replace the shocks when it is still up on the stands, before you put the wheels back on.

Slonaker

[Eyegore]

Slonaker the only thing I would add is that this would be a good time to replace the ball joints and check the condition of the upper & lower control arms for any play.

Tom

[Slonaker]

Originally Posted by Eyegore

Slonaker the only thing I would add is that this would be a good time to replace the ball joints and check the condition of the upper & lower control arms for any play.

Tom

Definitely. There won't be an easier time to fix those problems. Unfortunately, it sounds like Cliffsta is not in a position to purchase extra parts. Unfortunately, I know what it is like to be on a budget.

Slonaker

EDIT: BTW, Cliffsta, make sure you are not getting the heavy duty versions of the front coils unless you want to raise the front up a couple of inches. The parts stores around here stock only the HD springs, so that was what they sold me. They didn't bother to mention that they sold me the HD springs, so it took me a year to figure out why it was so tall in the front. Guess why I did my springs twice?

[jimfulco]

I'm way too cheap to cut U-bolts if I don't absolutely have to. I hosed down the nuts with used motor oil about a week before I undid them. I broke a couple loose with a regular old box-end wrench, but once I figured out they were lock-nuts & wouldn't spin off no matter what, I busted out the air tools anyway.

Watch out for the heavy-duty rear springs, also. They're not all the same.

[cliffsta]

Wow, this is good stuff guys, thanks, exactly what I needed.

I'll tack on Ubolts to my list of stuff b/c i think momma has yet to order everything.

Hmmm... and the control arms... if they look really bad, i could afford to get new ones maybe. Being without transportation to school and work while waiting for them would be killer though. X.X

I'm ordering everytihng from LMC and / or Chevy Duty so they should be the standard, not HD stuff.

[Slonaker]

The coils will probably be cheaper if you get them locally.

Your control arms are probably fine. The bushings in them, and the ball joints, are what would be bad. They are all replaceable, and available at any auto parts store.

Slonaker

[AspecialZ]

maybe a few pics on mine may help you, just watch those front springs, alot of oressure on those! I hope the third picture shows better!