proper engine and cam break in

[shelby987]

As some of you may already know, I bought a built 250 engine the other day, and before too much time goes by I would like to fire the engine up, and give it a break in (Planning on adding fuel injection, but would like to verify the condition of the engine before this).
Two questions.
1.) What do I need to setup in order to break this engine in outside of the truck, or is it going to cause me more trouble than its worth?

2.) What is the proper break in procedure for the cam/engine? I have heard with the engine, the typical for the first 500 miles, no long trips, no extended stays in high RPM's, no stays at a single speed for over an hour.....also heard use regular oil to let the rings set properly.....planning on running the magnets around the oil filter before the first oil change to....just to be safe (this is my first brand spankin' new engine).
250/HEI with headers, and a 4bbl intake

summarized:
Engine test stand (how to build)
Cam break in, specifics
Engine break in suggestions

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by shelby987

As some of you may already know, I bought a built 250 engine the other day, and before too much time goes by I would like to fire the engine up, and give it a break in (Planning on adding fuel injection, but would like to verify the condition of the engine before this).
Two questions.
1.) What do I need to setup in order to break this engine in outside of the truck, or is it going to cause me more trouble than its worth?

2.) What is the proper break in procedure for the cam/engine? I have heard with the engine, the typical for the first 500 miles, no long trips, no extended stays in high RPM's, no stays at a single speed for over an hour.....also heard use regular oil to let the rings set properly.....planning on running the magnets around the oil filter before the first oil change to....just to be safe (this is my first brand spankin' new engine).
250/HEI with headers, and a 4bbl intake

summarized:
Engine test stand (how to build)
Cam break in, specifics
Engine break in suggestions

Mount it in the truck (without doghouse if possible) as for cam breakin it is 30 ish minutes @ 2000RPM and drive it like you would anything else after that. You can use synthetic for breakin as new vettes, BMW's, etc come with Mobile One in the crankcase. I break in the cam and then drive em like I stole em, that is what they're for. If you are going to have a catastrophic failure it will happen no matter what even at an idle or wide open, so enjoy it!

[stllookn]

If it has been sitting quite a while or has not been started, make sure you pressurize the oil system and turn it over by hand to make sure you get oil throughout the engine and lifters bofore firing it. The cam, lifters and bearings should have had assembly lube on them when it was rebuilt but this is just extra insurance. Make sure you have the exhaust manifold on it to transfer heat away from the engine.

[BubbaGreen]

Check out this link....might be of some help:
http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...=Custom&ID=636

[MrC1]

For the cam: At least 2000 RPM for at least 15 minutes. Most folks do 2200-2400 for 20-25 min. The point here is to get the engine speed high enough to get the oil flowing and throwing off the crank. You can vary the speed during this time, just try not to let it idle.

For the engine: Not too much to worry about, but I wouldn't drive it at WOT until you've given the rings time to seat. Burn a tank or two and you'll be set. If you have a standard, a popular way to help seat the rings is, after driving it nicely for a tank or so, accelerate in 2nd gear at WOT and then let the engine slow the truck. Do this several times. This is an old shade tree technique to load the rings in both directions.

Make sure you change to the oil and filter after the break-in period. If you want to be extra careful, you can change it after the cam break-in as well.

Definitely pre-lube the engine by spinning the oil pump - normally done with a drill. Rotate the engine slowly while priming as some engines are "timed" and oil will not flow to all passages in one given crank position. (I'm no Chevy expert, but this is true on Mopars.)