Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

darcane · 11-07-2005, 01:25 AM

I'm rebuilding the front suspension (among many other things) on my '91 C1500. I'm not sure if the joints in my idler arm and pitman arm are bad or not. According to my Chiltons, they are considered "bad" if you can push and then pull the shaft and it moves more than 1/4". Mine don't have any noticeable play in this direction. So, I guess this means they are good.

However, I can push the side of the shaft where the threads are and it will move back and forth a small amount (maybe 1/8"). Is this acceptable?

Thanks

phantom dually · 11-07-2005, 02:34 PM

If you have over 100K on the truck and you havent replaced them then I would change them.

skillet · 11-07-2005, 03:18 PM

Any advice or tips on removing them? Thanks.

darcane · 11-07-2005, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom dually

If you have over 100K on the truck and you havent replaced them then I would change them.

Definately over 100K. I had a feeling that's what the answer would be in spite of passing the test in my Chiltons manual. Those things really are pretty useless. I'm just not real excited about pulling off that pitman arm nut.

Thanks

stueber68 · 11-11-2005, 10:33 AM

To remove the pitman arm there is a tool you can rent at most part stores to remove it from the steering gear. Pay attention to how it is clocked it needs to go on the same. You will need a pickle fork to get you the rest of the way. These usually go pretty smootly.

phantom dually · 11-12-2005, 11:35 AM

Really its not bad. I pulled everything from the front end in one piece.

cantburn · 11-23-2005, 09:43 AM

Darcane, Just rebuilt everthing on the front of a '92 K1500. Since it was 4x4, I had to remove the steering box to get the Pitman arm off. Since you have a 2x4, you should have it relatively easy. The hardest part is the nut on the steering box. Since it is the original, it is on there pretty good. Take a pickle fork and shove it into the joint between the center link and arm and whack on it until it pops loose. Now I am not sure what size that nut is but if you manage to get the right socket you can bust it loose with a breaker bar. I had to use a 14 inch cresent wrench and a 2.5 lb sledge. Once the nut is off, put your puller on it and cinch it down tight. If you have one of those small butane torches, run the flame over the Pitman arm hub, don't let it sit in one area too long. Every now and then screw down on the puller until you feel the arm start to move. Stop using the torch and take the arm the rerst of the way off. Take a good look at the way the hub of the arm looks...it is "keyed" and will only go back on the correct way. Also, the shaft on the steering box is tapered and you may have to seat the new arm on the shaft with a large socket and hammer. Then, just put the nut back on and tighten the nut to specs. Good luck....and most likely you will notice a difference in the way the truck handles.

11-07-2005, 01:25 AM	#1
darcane Registered User Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Buckley, WA Posts: 418	Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? I'm rebuilding the front suspension (among many other things) on my '91 C1500. I'm not sure if the joints in my idler arm and pitman arm are bad or not. According to my Chiltons, they are considered "bad" if you can push and then pull the shaft and it moves more than 1/4". Mine don't have any noticeable play in this direction. So, I guess this means they are good. However, I can push the side of the shaft where the threads are and it will move back and forth a small amount (maybe 1/8"). Is this acceptable? Thanks __________________ *Mike Lackey* '68 C10 '49 6400

11-07-2005, 02:34 PM	#2
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	Re: Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? If you have over 100K on the truck and you havent replaced them then I would change them. __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

11-07-2005, 03:18 PM	#3
skillet Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: denton, tx, usa Posts: 176	Re: Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? Any advice or tips on removing them? Thanks. __________________ 69 SB GMC LWB Fleetside 350, 09 Pontiac Vibe 2.4 liter

11-11-2005, 10:33 AM	#5
stueber68 1968 C20 Vortec Beast Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: STILLWATER,OKLAHOMA Posts: 483	Re: Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? To remove the pitman arm there is a tool you can rent at most part stores to remove it from the steering gear. Pay attention to how it is clocked it needs to go on the same. You will need a pickle fork to get you the rest of the way. These usually go pretty smootly. __________________ Ugly or not it still kicks a**!

11-12-2005, 11:35 AM	#6
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	Re: Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? Really its not bad. I pulled everything from the front end in one piece. __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

11-23-2005, 09:43 AM	#7
cantburn ParrotHead Parts Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Port St Lucie, Florida Posts: 218	Re: Idler and Pitman arm worn or not? Darcane, Just rebuilt everthing on the front of a '92 K1500. Since it was 4x4, I had to remove the steering box to get the Pitman arm off. Since you have a 2x4, you should have it relatively easy. The hardest part is the nut on the steering box. Since it is the original, it is on there pretty good. Take a pickle fork and shove it into the joint between the center link and arm and whack on it until it pops loose. Now I am not sure what size that nut is but if you manage to get the right socket you can bust it loose with a breaker bar. I had to use a 14 inch cresent wrench and a 2.5 lb sledge. Once the nut is off, put your puller on it and cinch it down tight. If you have one of those small butane torches, run the flame over the Pitman arm hub, don't let it sit in one area too long. Every now and then screw down on the puller until you feel the arm start to move. Stop using the torch and take the arm the rerst of the way off. Take a good look at the way the hub of the arm looks...it is "keyed" and will only go back on the correct way. Also, the shaft on the steering box is tapered and you may have to seat the new arm on the shaft with a large socket and hammer. Then, just put the nut back on and tighten the nut to specs. Good luck....and most likely you will notice a difference in the way the truck handles.



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