The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-15-2005, 12:32 AM   #1
dirtboy488
Registered User
 
dirtboy488's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 86
Killing U-joints

I have had the new motor in my truck for about two months now, and ever since the install I have consistantly killed my rear most u-joint on a weekly basis. (it's a two peice driveshaft) I have tryed a new center carrier but no change. It always kills the two sides of the u-joint that bolt to the rear end yoke. My question is could the torque be flexing the driveshaft enough to burn up the u-joint? Also does anyone know of a single piece driveshaft that will bolt in place? Or maybie somewhere that could make one at a good price?
Thanks in advance,
Terry
__________________
1969 C10 swb 2wd
1970 C10 swb 2wd SOLD
dirtboy488 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 12:43 AM   #2
cableguy0
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Delta,Pa
Posts: 14,950
Re: Killing U-joints

believe it or not. a two piece is better than a one piece as far as drive line angles go. are you using greasable or non greasable joints? greaseable joints seem to fail a lot quicker anymore.i broke a bunch of greasables then went to none greasables and they seem to better
__________________
Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.
cableguy0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 12:54 AM   #3
Green Machine
Senior Member
 
Green Machine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
Re: Killing U-joints

If you use the greasable ones, install so that the engine torque pushes the grease hole together insted of pulling it apart, think about which way it turns and study it a bit and you will see what I mean. Non greasble have no holes and are stronger anyway.
__________________
1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103
1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285
1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894
2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0
Green Machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 01:38 AM   #4
sdredneck
The Crazy Kracka
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 60
Re: Killing U-joints

You might have a significant amount of axle wrap. I had the same problem and it was bending the crap out of the straps and then it would destroy the U joint. Now granted I was using wore out springs, 4.10 rear end and 450 hp 400 small block. All of that in a Blazer short wheelbase on a one piece drive shaft. That could of had something to do with it.
__________________
My goal in life is to be as good of a person as my dog already thinks I am.

68 GMC LWB 396 BBC Camper Special
72 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with 406 SBC
73 Dodge Dart Sport with 340
sdredneck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 10:21 AM   #5
Green Machine
Senior Member
 
Green Machine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
Re: Killing U-joints

Hmm, I assumed coils in the rear.
__________________
1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103
1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285
1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894
2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0
Green Machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 10:35 AM   #6
shelby987
Registered User
 
shelby987's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Just outside Durham, NC
Posts: 894
Re: Killing U-joints

stupid question, how do you know if you have toasted a u-joint?
shelby987 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 10:43 AM   #7
FormerMember
Account Suspended
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,051
Re: Killing U-joints

Are you putting the joints all in phase with each other? I.E. They're all the same direction at the same time?

When you pulled the shaft apart, did you mark it with a line to make sure you put it back together the same?
FormerMember is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 12:26 PM   #8
woodridge
Senior Member
 
woodridge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Maynardville, Tn
Posts: 3,030
Re: Killing U-joints

If the damage is only to the joint where it attatches the diff flange, check for damage or wear to the flange itself. If it is worn or damaged it will cause missalignment of the cups wich will cause joint failure.
__________________
SEMA Network- Protect our Hobby!
71 C30 in pieces, starting to come together.
Click here for A Place For Tennessee Truck Enthusiest To Meet
woodridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com