Ready to install tranny but???

[scooby3242]

OK Im swapping my saginaw 3 speed to a th350. Im ready to put the th350 in but having never done this before I have a few questions. Before I install the flexplate is there a spacer I need to remove? And before I put the torque converter on the tranny should I put a quart of tranny fluid into the converter. After getting the tranny bolted to the block and checking the spacing from the torque converter to the flexplate, how does the flexplate bolt to the torque coverter. Do the nuts go on the flexplate side or the torque converter side and do I use washers. Thanks

[truckdude239]

torque converter slides into the flexplate and the the nuts go on the back side of the flexplate to hold the converter to the flexplate. i have always put fuild in my converters when i install them

[pjmoreland]

You'll need to remove the little bearing/bushing that's pressed into the hole in the back end of your crank shaft that supported the input shaft of your manual transmission. The torque converter is too big to fit in the bearing/bushing.

[Tx Firefighter]

It doesn't matter if the torque converter nuts go forward or backward. Just get them tight and all is well.

Like the poster said, you must remove the pilot bushing from the back of the crankshaft. It can sometimes be difficult for sure.

The best method of removing the bushing is this...Find a rod or dowel or something that fits snugly into the busing's center hole. Then, pack grease into the bushing as much as you can get in there. Now, hammer the dowel or rod into the hole, against the grease. That will compress the grease, which will actually push the bushing out. It seems backwards, but it works.

[70GMCer]

Sorry to have to disagree on the "Pilot Bushing". But, I have never had to removed one from the swaps I've did, and never have had any problems with the "Converter Hub" seating properly.....The bronze bushing is so deep inside the crank end, inside the race, that the converter hub never hits it. Another thing to keep in mine, is that the converter bolts are a fine thread bolt with 5/8" narrow/shallow heads w/star washers, and are special for the flex plate/converter connections. If you don't have those, "Auto Zone" does, or any parts store in their "Help" section. I always put the nuts on the converter side with the lock "star washers". This way there's never a chance of the flywheel cover hitting the bolts/nuts installed the opposite way, (nuts on flywheel side).....

[Tx Firefighter]

There must be differences in converter snouts or depth of pilot bushings then.

I learned the hard way some years ago when doing a quick engine swap one weekend on my driver truck. After a long struggle, I had to finally pull the trans back out and remove the pilot bushing because the converter wouldn't pull up to the flexplate fully. I'd forgotten that the engine had come out of a standard truck, so I never thought about the bushing for a second. Now, I knock them out everytime, remembering the hell I had that day.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

There must be differences in converter snouts or depth of pilot bushings then.

I learned the hard way some years ago when doing a quick engine swap one weekend on my driver truck. After a long struggle, I had to finally pull the trans back out and remove the pilot bushing because the converter wouldn't pull up to the flexplate fully. I'd forgotten that the engine had come out of a standard truck, so I never thought about the bushing for a second. Now, I knock them out everytime, remembering the hell I had that day.

I must have been lucky several times! I usually leave the pilot in the crank, but I have seen a couple different shapes on the converter snout. One is completly flat on the back face , & the other has a large chamfer.......the bushing may be in the way of the 2nd one, or possibly the bushing wasnt seated all the "home"? As far as the Scat crank in my 383 "swallowed" the pilot bushing.......it would never touch the converter! to be safe, its easier to remove it 1st tho L

[qksilver]

The other thing that is very important is too make sure the convertor is fully seated on the shaft. Spin it around a few times on the shaft as you push. It will almost seem to click in.
As far as the bolts, they are made to be in shear....they will hold better if the nuts are toward the convertor. I forgot what web site but they spent 2 or 3 pages explaining.
Good luck,
Steve

[1978steven]

Originally Posted by 70GMCer

Sorry to have to disagree on the "Pilot Bushing". But, I have never had to removed one from the swaps I've did, and never have had any problems with the "Converter Hub" seating properly.....The bronze bushing is so deep inside the crank end, inside the race, that the converter hub never hits it. Another thing to keep in mine, is that the converter bolts are a fine thread bolt with 5/8" narrow/shallow heads w/star washers, and are special for the flex plate/converter connections. If you don't have those, "Auto Zone" does, or any parts store in their "Help" section. I always put the nuts on the converter side with the lock "star washers". This way there's never a chance of the flywheel cover hitting the bolts/nuts installed the opposite way, (nuts on flywheel side).....

Same here... When I did my 3 speed to th350 swap I didn't have to remove the "Pilot Bushing".... I also filled the converter as much as I could, and got a new set of converter bolts, nuts, and washers.

[scooby3242]

Thanks for all the good info....Now who is coming over to help me put this tranny in?

[Tx Firefighter]

What part of Ft Worth are you in?

[scooby3242]

North Fort Worth, up by Keller