Need help...busted a nut - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Longhorn Man · 07-14-2002, 07:03 PM

Ok, actually, i busted more than just one, but none the less...
I was taking the silly looking (wrong style) exhaust manifold off of the 425, and I broke 4 bolts. Now I know the tap it out theory, find an edge on the remains of the bolt, and use a punch or chisel, but these are frozen in there. I have them soaking with some P-oil as we speak.
The only torch i have, is the silly little one on top of a propaine bottle. About the only thing that will heat up is left ovet toast from breakfast.
Any ideas? No one around here will rent out a real torch...local law apearantly.

jhwkns · 07-14-2002, 07:17 PM

If you're having the heads re-done. Let the machine shop handle it. It's not an uncommon repair.

Dave67 · 07-14-2002, 07:19 PM

Have you ever used an E-Z Out? Pep Boys or Advanced have them, or possibly Sears. They looh like a drill bit with reversed threads, and you drill a smaller hole, then attatch it to a tap handle.
Good luck!

PanelDeland · 07-14-2002, 07:19 PM

Drill a hole thru the bolt and use an easy out.Heat the bolt and douse it with penetrating oil before you use the easy-out.Hopefully the penetrating oil and heat will loosen the bolt enough for an easy-out to work.
The other way I have removed broken bolts is to put a nut on the stub of bolt and weld it to the bolt.The nut can be turned by a wrench and the heat will have unseized the bolt.

68 with 350 TPI · 07-14-2002, 07:21 PM

I have always had luck with doing this to a broken bolt.

Take a torch and heat it up (even the local hardware store torches will work) get it pretty hot and then hit the center of it wil a punch and hammer a few times to jar it.

Then if its sticking out try the vicegrips first.
If that dosent work weld a bolt to the end of whats left and turn it out.

If its on the inside thats a little harder.
Might try a EZ-out or a good reverse drill bit after you have centered it.

RipMeyer · 07-14-2002, 08:08 PM

I think an easy out will work if you heat it up. The propanr jobber will prolly do it if you get the tip right on it. If your tip is crap go to a plumbing supply and get a different one.

Longhorn Man · 07-14-2002, 10:32 PM

These are pretty much what I was expecting. The easy outs and reversed drill bits..are they expensive?
No way are these heads getting rebuilt, the $130 just for a gasket kit kills the budget alone.

**68 Stepside** · 07-14-2002, 10:33 PM

Andy, my dad busted a nut once too, he just went to the doctor's office, they fixed him right up! :p

TJ

*racedvl* · 07-14-2002, 11:26 PM

TJ, that explans ALOT!!! LOL!!

WORNBRAKES · 07-15-2002, 12:23 AM

Some advice for easy outs. There are a few diff styles out there so make sure you use the right one or you are liable to brake that to. The new ones that Sears has, have been junk for me and have yet to prove themself. They use these at work sometimes. I have found these two to work the best.
The spiral type are used for removing soft metal from hard metal.
The square ones are for removing hard metal from soft metal.
I hope I said that right. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Best of luck Andy,
Mario

Blue_71 · 07-15-2002, 01:34 AM

and if you break the EZ out, forget it, i have never been able to drill out a ez out

O'l Buck · 07-15-2002, 02:12 AM

It's been my experience thay easy outs are harder than any drill bit know to man!!!.......if you're darned good with a drill, just drill out the old broken bolt and tap new holes, but i'd only do it if you are real good.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-15-2002, 08:49 AM

More than likely you will end up drilling the remains of the broken bolt out and retapping but this is what I would suggest trying. I assume that this is a 3/8-16 size thread that you are working with
so start out by center punching the end, get as close to center as possible. Drill the first hole with a 1/8" drill through the broken stub. Spot drill the face and look at the centering before proceeding. If it is off a little, lean the drill the opposite way and this will help you center the hole. Once you are as close to center as possible through drill the hole. You can then spray your penetrant through this hole so that you can soak the back side of the stub.

If you have a selection of files, you can use the handle end like an
easy out, but you will need to fit the hole to your file. Keep the wall thickness reasonable, and tap the file in place and attempt to
turn out. If you are lucky and you soaked the stub enough it will come out. The file handle will cut grooves into the hole when you
tap it in to give you a "bite" for turning. Unlike an easy out, the file does not pull itself down into the hole, which lessens the chance of expanding the stub from the inside. I have removed hundreds of broken bolts and the success with easy outs has been very limited, (2) but the file, tunking, and drilling have worked for me in most cases. If the file won't turn it out, then drill to correct tap size and retap.

Good luck!

Jim

tom hand · 07-15-2002, 08:57 AM

FYI if you ever break an e-z out or tap, don't waste your time trying to drill it out, you will just ruin a bunch of drill bits. Take a small punch and hit it till it breaks. E-Z outs are so hard they break like glass.

Low69CST · 07-15-2002, 09:02 AM

A busted nut? Sounds like you had better luck than I did saturday night.

Longhorn Man · 07-15-2002, 06:47 PM

Thanks, i'll have to try some of these...
Most of the bolts go all the way through, and you can access the back of the stud..the hole goes all the way through on about 1/2 of them on a caddy engine.
THey have been soaking since yestarday.

07-14-2002, 07:03 PM	#1
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Need help...busted a nut Ok, actually, i busted more than just one, but none the less... I was taking the silly looking (wrong style) exhaust manifold off of the 425, and I broke 4 bolts. Now I know the tap it out theory, find an edge on the remains of the bolt, and use a punch or chisel, but these are frozen in there. I have them soaking with some P-oil as we speak. The only torch i have, is the silly little one on top of a propaine bottle. About the only thing that will heat up is left ovet toast from breakfast. Any ideas? No one around here will rent out a real torch...local law apearantly.

07-14-2002, 07:17 PM	#2
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	If you're having the heads re-done. Let the machine shop handle it. It's not an uncommon repair. __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

07-14-2002, 07:19 PM	#3
Dave67 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Bethel Park, PA USA Posts: 127	E-Z Have you ever used an E-Z Out? Pep Boys or Advanced have them, or possibly Sears. They looh like a drill bit with reversed threads, and you drill a smaller hole, then attatch it to a tap handle. Good luck! __________________ 67 C-20 LWB 56 Nomad--- nope, sold it 75 Stingray 13 Silverado crew cab 08 Trailblazer (wife's) Pittsburgh, PA

07-14-2002, 07:19 PM	#4
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Drill a hole thru the bolt and use an easy out.Heat the bolt and douse it with penetrating oil before you use the easy-out.Hopefully the penetrating oil and heat will loosen the bolt enough for an easy-out to work. The other way I have removed broken bolts is to put a nut on the stub of bolt and weld it to the bolt.The nut can be turned by a wrench and the heat will have unseized the bolt. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

07-14-2002, 07:21 PM	#5
68 with 350 TPI Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Wingate NC Posts: 456	I have always had luck with doing this to a broken bolt. Take a torch and heat it up (even the local hardware store torches will work) get it pretty hot and then hit the center of it wil a punch and hammer a few times to jar it. Then if its sticking out try the vicegrips first. If that dosent work weld a bolt to the end of whats left and turn it out. If its on the inside thats a little harder. Might try a EZ-out or a good reverse drill bit after you have centered it. __________________ Life is good with a 6-71 supercharged 355 in a 72 camaro

07-14-2002, 08:08 PM	#6
RipMeyer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Southern New Mexico Posts: 649	I think an easy out will work if you heat it up. The propanr jobber will prolly do it if you get the tip right on it. If your tip is crap go to a plumbing supply and get a different one.

07-14-2002, 10:32 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	These are pretty much what I was expecting. The easy outs and reversed drill bits..are they expensive? No way are these heads getting rebuilt, the $130 just for a gasket kit kills the budget alone.

07-14-2002, 10:33 PM	#8
68 Stepside huh? Join Date: May 2000 Location: Washington, Illinois Posts: 5,690	Andy, my dad busted a nut once too, he just went to the doctor's office, they fixed him right up! :p TJ __________________ Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay

07-14-2002, 11:26 PM	#9
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	TJ, that explans ALOT!!! LOL!!

07-15-2002, 12:23 AM	#10
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Some advice for easy outs. There are a few diff styles out there so make sure you use the right one or you are liable to brake that to. The new ones that Sears has, have been junk for me and have yet to prove themself. They use these at work sometimes. I have found these two to work the best. The spiral type are used for removing soft metal from hard metal. The square ones are for removing hard metal from soft metal. I hope I said that right. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Best of luck Andy, Mario __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

07-15-2002, 02:12 AM	#12
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	It's been my experience thay easy outs are harder than any drill bit know to man!!!.......if you're darned good with a drill, just drill out the old broken bolt and tap new holes, but i'd only do it if you are real good. __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

07-15-2002, 08:49 AM	#13
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	More than likely you will end up drilling the remains of the broken bolt out and retapping but this is what I would suggest trying. I assume that this is a 3/8-16 size thread that you are working with so start out by center punching the end, get as close to center as possible. Drill the first hole with a 1/8" drill through the broken stub. Spot drill the face and look at the centering before proceeding. If it is off a little, lean the drill the opposite way and this will help you center the hole. Once you are as close to center as possible through drill the hole. You can then spray your penetrant through this hole so that you can soak the back side of the stub. If you have a selection of files, you can use the handle end like an easy out, but you will need to fit the hole to your file. Keep the wall thickness reasonable, and tap the file in place and attempt to turn out. If you are lucky and you soaked the stub enough it will come out. The file handle will cut grooves into the hole when you tap it in to give you a "bite" for turning. Unlike an easy out, the file does not pull itself down into the hole, which lessens the chance of expanding the stub from the inside. I have removed hundreds of broken bolts and the success with easy outs has been very limited, (2) but the file, tunking, and drilling have worked for me in most cases. If the file won't turn it out, then drill to correct tap size and retap. Good luck! Jim

07-15-2002, 08:57 AM	#14
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	FYI if you ever break an e-z out or tap, don't waste your time trying to drill it out, you will just ruin a bunch of drill bits. Take a small punch and hit it till it breaks. E-Z outs are so hard they break like glass. __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

07-15-2002, 09:02 AM	#15
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	A busted nut? Sounds like you had better luck than I did saturday night. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

07-15-2002, 06:47 PM	#16
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Thanks, i'll have to try some of these... Most of the bolts go all the way through, and you can access the back of the stud..the hole goes all the way through on about 1/2 of them on a caddy engine. THey have been soaking since yestarday.



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