Door Rubbers - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Wootdog · 12-29-2005, 02:48 PM

Anyone had a problem with the back of the door not closing after you install the rubbers? When I have them installed fat side out, the rear of the door will not be flush. I even removed the striker plate with the same results. It looks like the rubber gasket is too fat on the front side near the hinge area. When I install them narrow side out, the doors are flush but you can see daylight all the way around the door. I measured the thickness side to side and it is approximately an inch thick. My other set in the other truck are only 7/8". Could I have bought the rubber weatherstrip in the wrong thickness? Thanks, Kerry

Putter · 12-29-2005, 02:52 PM

Not that it matters, but did you get the glue-on ones (like original) or the S-10 style that more-or-less press on?

I just put my S-10 ones on yesterday and have the same problem. Basically have to use both hands and one leg to close the door from the outside. There is NO WAY it will close from the inside without ripping the handle off.

I am just hoping it will compress like the originals did.

Wootdog · 12-29-2005, 02:56 PM

These are supposed to be the original type but the thickness is wider than what I have on my other truck. Kerry

Putter · 12-29-2005, 03:00 PM

On my original cab with original seals, at the front, those thing were compressed down to about 1/8" thick. I say just slam it and hope for the best. They have got to compress sooner or later.
Did you get those from a reputable vendor?

70c10 · 12-29-2005, 03:04 PM

Original style or S-10 style will do this for several months. It's normal even though it's a pain. Another trick that helps is to poke holes around the rubber with an awl every 4". I got that from Bill Athey!.

Wootdog · 12-29-2005, 03:07 PM

The problem is the back of the doors sticks out even though the door is against the striker plate in the back. They shut just sitck out and it is bothersome. Kerry

70c10 · 12-29-2005, 03:09 PM

I hear ya Kerry. I would let it go until spring before adjusting the striker.

12-29-2005, 02:48 PM	#1
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,680	Door Rubbers Anyone had a problem with the back of the door not closing after you install the rubbers? When I have them installed fat side out, the rear of the door will not be flush. I even removed the striker plate with the same results. It looks like the rubber gasket is too fat on the front side near the hinge area. When I install them narrow side out, the doors are flush but you can see daylight all the way around the door. I measured the thickness side to side and it is approximately an inch thick. My other set in the other truck are only 7/8". Could I have bought the rubber weatherstrip in the wrong thickness? Thanks, Kerry __________________ 1967 C10 Got it back after three years Boy I sure missed Peppy 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

12-29-2005, 02:52 PM	#2
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	Re: Door Rubbers Not that it matters, but did you get the glue-on ones (like original) or the S-10 style that more-or-less press on? I just put my S-10 ones on yesterday and have the same problem. Basically have to use both hands and one leg to close the door from the outside. There is NO WAY it will close from the inside without ripping the handle off. I am just hoping it will compress like the originals did. __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket** Last edited by Putter; 12-29-2005 at 02:53 PM.

12-29-2005, 02:56 PM	#3
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,680	Re: Door Rubbers These are supposed to be the original type but the thickness is wider than what I have on my other truck. Kerry __________________ 1967 C10 Got it back after three years Boy I sure missed Peppy 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

12-29-2005, 03:00 PM	#4
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	Re: Door Rubbers On my original cab with original seals, at the front, those thing were compressed down to about 1/8" thick. I say just slam it and hope for the best. They have got to compress sooner or later. Did you get those from a reputable vendor? __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket**

12-29-2005, 03:04 PM	#5
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	Re: Door Rubbers Original style or S-10 style will do this for several months. It's normal even though it's a pain. Another trick that helps is to poke holes around the rubber with an awl every 4". I got that from Bill Athey!. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads Last edited by 70c10; 12-29-2005 at 03:07 PM.

12-29-2005, 03:07 PM	#6
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,680	Re: Door Rubbers The problem is the back of the doors sticks out even though the door is against the striker plate in the back. They shut just sitck out and it is bothersome. Kerry __________________ 1967 C10 Got it back after three years Boy I sure missed Peppy 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

12-29-2005, 03:09 PM	#7
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	Re: Door Rubbers I hear ya Kerry. I would let it go until spring before adjusting the striker. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads



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