To sell or not to sell

[b454rat]

I have a 1962 4wd Suburban, right now has a 307, 3 on the tree, stock div case, (junk BTW), Dana 44HD with 4:10s w/discs, Dana 60 HD with 4:10s, 15" 8 lug w/bald 33s. I have a SM465 hyd. clutch and 205 t-case with both crossmembers, newer style engine crossmember, I also have a Dana 44 front with 3.08s and a 12 bolt with 3.08s that I was going to put in. I have a hood with very little rust, and a pass door off the same truck that is in the same shape, everything esle is pretty rusty, but all of which can be fixed. Glass is all there and good shape. The rear windows where busted out, and previous owner didn't put the sliders back in. Clam shell doors are near prefect. I have a booster and master cylinder off a newer truck, 63 smooth column, 61 dash with tach (needs rebuild) and I'm sure I have other parts, but can't think what they are right now. Like I said, its rusty, but nothing that can't be fixed. The frame is great, no signs of weakness anywhere. I know there aren't alot of these out there, and especially a 4wd. This is a factory 4wd, too. Still have the stickers on the inside on the roof. What would be a fair price to ask?? I got a new job that pays about double from my previous, so I think I want to get one that isn't so rusty and just do mechanical stuff. Bodywork is NOT my specialty. I have more pics in my pics link in my sig. And no, I will not sell the HP60!!!

[k14burb]

Hello, this is my first post, just joined yesterday. I bought a clean solid '66 a couple of months ago in Phoenix. It is a super solid original 4x4 in what I would call "driver" condition. That is everything works and it runs perfect but could use cosmetics such as interior and paint. I paid $12k for it which was sort of on impulse because I was having a hard time just finding one. Most 4x4s that I saw while shopping that were in good condition weren't original 4x4s. There has been a basket case 4x4 for sale in the Old Car Trader for several months, he's asking $1500 but it hasn't sold in months. The 4x4s on ebay seem to move faster but for less money than those in the OCT from what I've seen lately. I almost bought a '66 4x4 prior to purchasing mine that had a really solid 350, 700r4, and diffs out of a late 80's 3/4 ton, it sold for $8k but had a rust free but rough body. It's hard to put a price on rare items that don't often come up. The NADA http://www.nada.com/ guide dosen't seem to give enough value for the 4x4 option on these old burbs. I guess you could just put it on Ebay and set whatever reserve price makes you happy and see if it moves. Good Luck!

[b454rat]

When I bought the truck, P/O did the NADA thing on it, and at it's condition at the time was like $2500. I would be happy if I could get $2500 out of it right now!!! I really love the truck, but I don't have the knowledge to do the bodywork, and don't want to know what it would cost to get it done. I might just let it sit at my buddy's place to figure out what I wanna do, and maybe someone will see it and buy it. Who knows. I've been looking for one forever, and when I finally get one, i want to sell it!!!! I guess what I want is a solid or near solid body, and do mechanical stuff. I know how to do that, just not the body stuff. I have a motor for sale, maybe I could work out a deal with a bodyshop to get the work done.....

[k14burb]

By all means I'd keep it then. It won't depreciate. The older models with the wrap around windshields should allways be more desireable I would think. I'd just park it untill the budget will allow for the bodywork. I bought my '67 convertible Camaro back in '86 and freaked when it cost me over 15k to restore it in the early '90s. I've got about 20k into it now but it is a numbers matching RS/SS 350 convertible that I could never afford to buy at today's prices. The hosts on the Barrett/Jackson auction keep saying that rare trucks and SUVs are going to be the next "big thing".

[b454rat]

I went to NADA and the lowest was $4500 or something, but that said in drivable condition. Mine isn't really driveable right now. I have a 468 alum headed big block that I was going to put in it. But I did some measuring and the motor is 24" at it's widest. The firewall is only 20", maybe less. I've heard that you can move the engine forward to run a BBC, but I would have to move it like 5-6" foward!!! I was just on Ebay and saw a truck in there with the same V/Cs that I have, and he got it to fit!!! So now I'm wondering just how much I have to do to get it in there. This motor was awesome in my car, and I know that I could embarass alot of cars out there in this truck. I think I will just have to go at it and yank the motor out and trial fit it in there. The link below is what i would like to do to mine, but not lifted and just 33s. Definitaly not that color either, Sunburst orange below the windows and silver above, with gray interior.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custo...QQcmdZViewItem

[littlee_domn8r]

Is that one on ebay a chevy with GMC front? My 63 doesn't have the double hump dash, and the instrument panel looks to be chevy as well. Or were the subs different from the pickups? Either way, it is nice and I wish I could afford it!

[k14burb]

I saw that one on Ebay. It's on a later model chasis, notice the rear wheels sit far back into the wheelwells. The previous owner who put the 454 into my '66 and said he only had to "massage" the firewall to clear the passenger valve cover and HEI. I imagine if you had a tall deck big block, or tall valve covers it could cause more of a problem. The 454 in mine runs pretty strong but you can only shift that old long throw four speed so fast. I plan to swap in a built 700r4 and a more modern trans case, I'm running 4:11 gears and an overdrive would be nice. Here's another nice one in Az. http://adcache.collectorcartraderonl...3/81984243.htm

[b454rat]

I'm not sure on the dash on the GMC. I don't think I've seen the 60-63 dashs in them. I noticed reading the discription that its on a newer frame, and it's hard to tell from the one engine pic how it fits in there. I have the same valve covers on mine, the reason the motor is so wide. It's not a tall deck, just a standard 1973 3/4 burban 454 block. With my new job it's next to impossible to get done early enough to use the daylight, so the weekend is the only time that I can do anything. Since I can't seem to sell the motor, I might as well use it, and figure out a way to run TBI on it. I guess TBI and aftermarket heads for a BBC don't mix. I dont' know the particulars, but I guess what happens is the fuel will puddle in the intake, and the computer will read a lean code, lean it out, and eventually burn the motor. I'm tired of messing with carbs, and will run alot better with TBI, any motor for that matter. I plan on getting a camper in a few years, I guess the extra motor will help pull it along......

[toroflow]

Attached is a picture of my factory original 1964 GMC Sub 4x4. All original except for the tires and rims. I could not even get anyone to bid on it on ebay at $6,000. Had a for sale sign in it for 6 months, but took it out cuz I got tired of hearing how everyone "had one just like it a long time ago". So, now it serves as my off-road only vehicle in rural Arizona. My rambling to this point is this: your Sub is worth what someone will pay you for it. A rusty Suburban 4x4, to me, is not worth over $1000, due to the work it is going to take to get it back in decent shape. This sub of mine, I thought I was giving away at $6,000, but apparently the market didn't think so.

[toroflow]

And as for the fitment of a big block Chevy engine into an old Sub, this 1960 GMC Sub 4x4 of mine HAD a 454 in it, but I removed it due to it being a GAS HOG at 8 MPG...kind of costly to drive around. Anyway, the passenger side frame rail had to be slightly clearanced for the exhaust manifold, and the driver's side valve cover I used was from an old Corvette with a big block, which has a large relief angle in it at the firewall end. I also used an HEI distributor, but had to remove the cap to be able to remove it from the engine.