drag launch set up - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

AK70SWB · 07-15-2002, 10:24 PM

any one got a good suspension set up for a drag launch but streetable? i'm not there yet but have heard that once your get up there in HP that wheel spin becomes a big problem. anyway, any help would be great!!

SCOTI · 07-15-2002, 10:37 PM

A couple of guys on here have suggested removing the stock coils & replacing them w/coilovers behind the trailing arms, then use airbags to pre-load the suspension for best launch. Definitely go w/urethane trailing arm bushings & maybe a solid sway-bar in back to limit axle twist in relation to the frame along with a good front end alignment & a hollow sway bar(or none @ all) up front to reduce weight.

Longhorn Man · 07-15-2002, 11:03 PM

Removing or just disconecting the front bar also lets the front raise a little faster and a little further. The weight gain in getting rid of it is not noticable, and if it is a street/race vehicle, you'll want it there to hook back up...esp if running a rear bar too.

AK70SWB · 07-21-2002, 11:01 PM

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP
ANDY

Longhorn Man · 07-21-2002, 11:04 PM

The coil spring set up is actually a d@mn good one. Those real long ladder bars act as traction bars, that's why wheel hop is never an issue...onless your lowered 5 inches and haven't corrected the shock angle.

07-15-2002, 10:24 PM	#1
AK70SWB Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SPRINGFIELD MO. Posts: 126	drag launch set up any one got a good suspension set up for a drag launch but streetable? i'm not there yet but have heard that once your get up there in HP that wheel spin becomes a big problem. anyway, any help would be great!! __________________ the sun even shines on a dogs a$$ some days!!!

07-15-2002, 10:37 PM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	A couple of guys on here have suggested removing the stock coils & replacing them w/coilovers behind the trailing arms, then use airbags to pre-load the suspension for best launch. Definitely go w/urethane trailing arm bushings & maybe a solid sway-bar in back to limit axle twist in relation to the frame along with a good front end alignment & a hollow sway bar(or none @ all) up front to reduce weight. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

07-21-2002, 11:01 PM	#4
AK70SWB Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SPRINGFIELD MO. Posts: 126	THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP ANDY __________________ the sun even shines on a dogs a$$ some days!!!

07-15-2002, 11:03 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Removing or just disconecting the front bar also lets the front raise a little faster and a little further. The weight gain in getting rid of it is not noticable, and if it is a street/race vehicle, you'll want it there to hook back up...esp if running a rear bar too.

07-21-2002, 11:04 PM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	The coil spring set up is actually a d@mn good one. Those real long ladder bars act as traction bars, that's why wheel hop is never an issue...onless your lowered 5 inches and haven't corrected the shock angle.



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