Wish me luck...

[79BIG10]

Tomorrow I'm going to start working on the next big project on the truck. I'll be rebuilding the front end. I've got I believe everything I need but never know I'm going to try something I saw on another website for pressing the bushings out. If it works I'll give everyone the specs on it. If it works it will be a great tool for less than $5.00 I'm going to be taking pics as I go to help out others along with Swervin's write up. I'll update as we weekend goes on. Hope all goes well

[bmartin9122]

Godspeed and watch out for flyin' springs.

[86swb]

Good luck with that.

[79BIG10]

Update Day 1- I was able to get the complete drive side stuff off other thank linkage. The passenger side only thing left is the LCA. The drive side was really greasy due to a previous leaking p/s box. Tomorrow will be repacking bearings, cleaning up all the stuff at a car wash, removing the other stuff and painting after the old busings, joints have been taken out. If time allows I'll be placing it back together with the new brake hoses as well. It's been better than I thought it would. The springs were shot as I thought they would be. When I left off the pressure I was expecting alot of tension but not much at all. When I compared to the other one they're the same length and diamter. I measured the fender lip on both sides to compare each side before and after. I've been taking pics with a regular camera since the digital seems to eat up more batteries than it's worht More updates as time allows

[Prerunner1982]

sounds like its going good... if you come to help me, i will try not to drop a LCA on your head!

[79BIG10]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

sounds like its going good... if you come to help me, i will try not to drop a LCA on your head!

LMAO!!! Oh so true there Too bad Anal Andy ain't down here to clean up after me and clean up the stuff I've already pulled off.

[LOHRTBT]

hahahah!!

[84 400]

ha h apost some pics man good work so far and good luck

[79BIG10]

Day 2 update: Started off good but went to hell fast. Started off my taking off last lower control arm and set aside. Then took off pitman arm loose and the center linkage off. It came off in once piece so was good. I sprayed the center linkage down with some degreaser to soak overnight. I moved onto the upper control arm to remove the ball joints. Yeah right!! After air chisel, 2 drill bits and 2 drills (one a 18V Dewalt) they are both still on there. I've tried almost everything minus a cutting torch to get just one off so far.

Being frustrated with that I decided to move onto the shaft bushings. Bad idea I found out that the ball joints were bad enough to cause the bad alignment but the control bushings on both were so bad the shaft was right next to the control arm itself. No rubber between them So that side was easy to come out with the air chisel. Then onto the next side which was a bit harder. The control arm shaft wouldn't come out easily so I did a major mistake- I started hitting the shaft itself above the threads to drive it out the open side. After a couple hits I noticed the threads were messed up. So there's another piece I didn't want to buy. So I ended up going ahead and driving it out. I used my tool to drive out the insert and then the busing. That worked great.

Now the other upper control arm I learned from the first one not to hit the shaft. The 2nd one was the same way in that it had no rubber between the shaft and the UCA. I got the insert out and the bushing but the metal sleeve didn't come out. I worked on it for a good half hour and still nothing. I gave up on it since it was getting dark and chilly outside.

Everything is off the truck right now and waiting to be cleaned up and reinstalled after the old bushings pressed out and the infamous ball joints to be dealt with. More to come tomorrow after breaking the bank on a control arm shaft

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by 79BIG10

Day 2 update: ... I moved onto the upper control arm to remove the ball joints. Yeah right!! After air chisel, 2 drill bits and 2 drills (one a 18V Dewalt) they are both still on there. I've tried almost everything minus a cutting torch to get just one off so far.
...
I got the insert out and the bushing but the metal sleeve didn't come out. I worked on it for a good half hour and still nothing.
...

When rebuilding my front end, I also tried an air chisel but put it away, since I didn't want to mark up the area around the ball joint. I then tried a 'generic' angle grinder hoping to grind off the head of the rivets. But, the grinder didn't last long and I ended up burning it up. I decided to pull out the electric drill. I centered punched the rivet heads, then used a ~1/4" bit and drilled down about 1/4" in depth. Then, I stepped up to a ~1/2" bit and drilled out the rivet head. Then, I used a hammer and punch to remove all four rivets. Ir went really well. BTW, during the drilling process, a cutting oil really helps. I included a couple of pics.

As far as the inner sleeves go, they are tough to remove. I had luck with soaking them with 'Power Blaster', then used a hammer and chisel at the seam that runs along the inner sleeve to separate/rotate the sleeve. Once the sleeve 'breaks' loose from the shaft, the hammer and chisel can be used to drive out the sleeve from the shaft. BTW, is it possible file down the damaged threads on the shaft and use it as is (without crossthreading the nut).

[Slonaker]

My upper balljoints were about the same. I tried an air chisel, but it hardly made a dent in the rivets. I eventually ground the heads off the rivets, then used a punch and a BFH to drive the throughthe UCA. They were VERY difficult to remove even with the heads ground off. A friend and I took turns beating on them for 30+minutes.

These parts are very sturdy, and hard to work with. I broke a brand new chisel in half beating on it with a 4 pound sledgehammer.

Slonaker

EDIT: Someone on here a while back reported that they were able to use a ball joint press to push the control arm bushings in and out. The press is available for rent at my local auto parts stores, and is about $50 at Harbor Freight.

[Prerunner1982]

ok Brandon... you arent motivating me very well...

[79BIG10]

Day 3 Update Part 1: I got up and called around to every dealership, parts store etc. to see about the shaft. No one had any instock. So I called the wrencking yard and they had a complete upper arm for $35. I had to jump on it. So off I went to get it and then stopped off by a car wash to clean up the arms. After a good cleaning I stopped off by my cousin's work. He's a professional mechanic so he had allthe specialty tools we needed. We used a press like Slonaker was talking about to get the lower ball joints in and out. That was a breeze doing that way. Much easier than spending $100 at Auto Zone for a ball joint tool that would have taken longer.

We then went to the upper ball joints. These were tough even for him. He decided to take a air cut off wheel and cut into the side where the ball joint plate is. This way the arm is not cut or harmed when cutting the rivets. We then cut a X into each rivet deep enough to cut into the plate of the joint itself. Then once that was done we used a air chisel with the pointed end to drive them out. This was great in getting them out and much faster than drilling them. Now I owe him a couple cases of beer

Now I'm out to paint the arm, remove the other bushings and get everything ready for paint. If all goes well I should haev the new bushings in toinight.

[79BIG10]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

ok Brandon... you arent motivating me very well...

LOL I'm learning from mine so when we get ready for yours I'll be all set.

[84 400]

nice work man nice work

[N2TRUX]

Keep it up Brandon, you can do it....

[Slonaker]

When I was talking about the press, I was saying that someone on here used that same ball joint press to install the bushings into the control arm. You might searvh for the thread. It even had pics of the process.

Slonaker

[79BIG10]

Thanks Slonaker I'll take a look.

Day 3 Update Part 2: I'm still coming back and forth from out in the garage to the inside to warm up a bit. Right now we have a chance of snow Even in the garage with a coat and hot lamps it's cold. Right now the upeer arms are almost ready to be reinstalled with new ball joints, and polyurethane bushings. The lower arms are even worse to get out than the upper. I may take these to the machine shop tomorrow to help out on time and frustration.

[Slonaker]

I had someone press the bushings for me. My neighbor used to own a frontend shop, and offered to do it for me at his old shop. I was happy to let him. I think I probably would have paid for it anyway if it was reasonable.

I assembled mine in the dark, in my driveway, with temps in the 30s, with a light rain. It sucked. I hope the weather gets better.

Wait until you go to reassemble it, and find that the u-bolts for the LCAs won't fit in the holes in the crossmember. That is what happened to me. They somehow spread apart. I had to squeeze them back toward each other so that they would both pass through the holes in the crossmember at the same time. I bring it up because I remember that someone else had the same problem shortly after I did.

Good luck, Brandon...

Slonaker

[79BIG10]

Originally Posted by Slonaker

Wait until you go to reassemble it, and find that the u-bolts for the LCAs won't fit in the holes in the crossmember. That is what happened to me. They somehow spread apart. I had to squeeze them back toward each other so that they would both pass through the holes in the crossmember at the same time. I bring it up because I remember that someone else had the same problem shortly after I did.

Man I hope they work for me without having to do that.

Day 4 Upate #1: I just got back from dropping the arms off to a machine shop that I've used in the past. He said they would be ready to bolt on this afternoon so I'm going to get the centerlinks redone cleaned up and painted while waiting. Also if I can I'll get the brake lines put on. I'm going to soak them in Liquid Wrench for awhile to get the brake fittings loose on the frame side. Seems like one thing always leads to another. But if I can get some decent weather like they've been talking about then I could get this thing done. I need it done by Thurs. monring to take it to get aligned before I go to work on Friday. I'll update later on today and how everything looks.

[79BIG10]

Day 4 Update #2: After the previous post I was working on the truck and the machine shop called to say that I forgot one of the shafts for the A-arms. So I had to stop and go back and drive it over. I came back and started back again on the linkage. I was able to get everything primed, painted, and reassembled. I then bolted everything back up and now just waiting for the stuff from the machine shop. I'll be picking them up tomorrow morning when they open then off to Auto Zone for some brake hard lines due to unforseen problems. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185583 Once that's all replaced I can reassemble the a-arms and springs. Then off to the spindles and brakes. Maybe just maybe I can get this thing done but right now it's getting to be in the 20's tonight so everything is at a stand still since the truck can't move and the garage is too short for the truck.

[SSC's76]

Sounds like you made some good progress. I did what your doing to my truck last spring It was a fun little project. Ive never had the problems you guys have had with the ball joints mine always drill right out. I can say it sure is nice to be able to lube all the steering linkage.

[JonnyTechMech]

Sounds ruff, I'm faced with this same frontend rebuild after I get another engine installed in my 87. My truck set up for 4 yrs before I bought it and it's still got all the factory parts. I'm not looking forward to it; it took me about 3-4 days for break 2 bolts and work the other 2 of 4 bolts off just to replace a rear bumper.

Hang tough, sould like your almost in the clear.

[79BIG10]

Originally Posted by JonnyTechMech

Sounds ruff, I'm faced with this same frontend rebuild after I get another engine installed in my 87. My truck set up for 4 yrs before I bought it and it's still got all the factory parts. I'm not looking forward to it; it took me about 3-4 days for break 2 bolts and work the other 2 of 4 bolts off just to replace a rear bumper.

Hang tough, sould like your almost in the clear.

Sounds like the same situation I'm in. When I'm done I'll have to write up the tips I've learned from and things to do and not to do to help you and any others out. All of this was factory stuff as well so it's no fun at all breaking this stuff loose. I'm just glad I got air tools to help out.

[79BIG10]

Day 5 Update: I got alot accomplished today. I picked up the a-arms from the machine shop. They told me the lower bushings they had to burn one out it was so pressed in I get them home and paint them up. After that I finished installing all the balljoints, zerks, etc. on the rest of the items.

I then installed the center rod and inner/out rods with the sleeves. With those on I installed the new brake hoses on the a-arms. DOH!! I installed one of the ball joints upside down. Luckily it's the bolt in style and an easy fix. Then went on to the lower a-arms. I had one installed and aligned with the tips on the frame. Then I bolted it up with the U bolts and forgot that the arm bolts (on the ends holding the bushings) were not torqued down to spec So i was able to torque one but the other one impossible since the header was right there. So off it came, torqued down, and reinstalled. Then the other side (I rembered to torque it down previous) was installed. Once installed I torqued the U bolts down to spec. That's a b**** to get them since my headers, oil pan, starter and anything else you can imagine is in the way.

I then went onto the upper arms. I got the driver side installed and torqued down. I grabbed the spindle and started the threads on the upper ball joint to hold the spindle while I inserted the new spring. I jacked up the spring and lower arm with alot of trial and error along with a call to a buddy in Dallas for help I was able to get it in. I placed the spindle on and troqued it down. I installed the brake line hose to the one good side I hard line I was able to break loose. Installed the caliper, bolts, pads, rotor, etc. and it was ready minus the shock.

Next I went back to the passenger side and worked on the upper arm. Sure enough everything is going great but the brakes hose/line was a different story. The hard line I had to cut to get loose. I'll have to reflare later. The upper arm is done torqued down and ready to go. I go ahead and get the spring in like the other one but alot easier now that I knew how. Then was the spindle no problem there and placed on the caliper and bolted down. I went to the hose and something wasn't right. Long story short I had a driver side hose for a passenger side line. Well it was too late at night so I finished up the passenger side as much as I could. Time for shower and bed.

Day 6 Update (D-Day): I knew I had to get this thing going today since I have to head back to work tomorrow. I went to AZ for a flare tool (mine was worn out) and a change out the brake hose. Then off to O'Rilley's for shocks. AZ doesn't carry them and O'Rilley's doesn't loan out a flare tool So back to the house and flare the passenger side brake line. After a couple splits it finally worked. Next was redoing the passenger brake rubber line with the new right one. Another easy fix. Then I went to grease everything. Air grease gun worked great First time to use it so I was happy on how it worked. After that I installed the sway bar and bushings. Then two shocks and I was on a roll. Next I checked the toe in/out and corrected it. I dropped the truck off the jack stands and then bled the brakes. I drove it around the block to check everything and worked good.

The alignment shops are all booked up till next week so I'll wait till then. Not much driving for me until then. But at least it's all done now and drives great. I then checked the previous measurement to the new measurement of fender well height. I gained 3" of height at the fender well on both side!! I love the new ride height and looks more evened out now. Before it looked like a jacked up in back a bit more. Not anymore

For those thinking about doing this- Don't think just do it. It's worth every penny you spend on it. I was surprised on the ride quality improved already. I'm ready for Jon's swap next. Now that I know the tricks of the swap I'm think I could get it done alot faster now