body work tips anyone? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chevy2racr · 07-16-2002, 07:45 PM

some time soon gonna try to do rockers, corners, floor pans on the step side, any tips on doin this stuff, Its not gonna be any show truck, just lookin to have it look decent. the bed will prolly be off when I do it, maybe front clip too. its just gonna be a driver planin on flat black...
Bryce

bobs409 · 07-17-2002, 06:30 AM

A decent mig welder and most importantly, a spot weld cutter. Other than that, take your time and have fun. It's not bad once you get into it.

Replace the floor braces while your in there. Since your replacing the floor, you can do all the work from the top side.

**Downtown** · 07-17-2002, 09:40 AM

Make sure when you replace the rockers you do it with the doors on the truck. If you do it without the doors on the truck, it is almost for certain that the rockers won't fit correctly. Tack the rockers in place than remove the doors and finish the job.

kxmotox247 · 07-17-2002, 10:26 AM

Downtown is definately right about having the doors in place.
The rockers add a lot of strength to the cab so removing them without the doors in place will cause the door opening to "flex", and then when you put the door back on, it won't fit or the gaps won't be even.
The same goes for when chopping tops...
A good piece of advice, maybe not neccesary when just replacing rockers, is to reinforce the cab before you cut. You might consider welding the doors in place (in just a couple spots you can cut loose later). If you are also cutting out the floor, you can cross brace the doors and the cab together with some 1" square tubing to hold everything true.
One more tip for you, use a guide coat before you paint. This is what I do before I paint anything. I spray a light colored primer over everything. The I take a can of black laquer and very lightly "fog" the primer with the black. I repeat, very lightly. Then with 600 grit paper, I wet sand everything and take off the black laquer. I know by looking if the black comes off quickly, that's a high spot. I know where my low spots are when it takes a long time to get the black off. Sometimes you will have to go back and re-primer certain areas where you sand through a high spot.
Remember, take your time to do it right. All of that blocking will pay off.
Good luck!

Cyco Path · 07-17-2002, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bobs409
and most importantly, a spot weld cutter.

What's a spot weld cutter? I'm not familiar with that tool.

*67Fleetsidedream* · 07-17-2002, 10:49 AM

Here I found one for you.

http://www.autotoolmart.com/cgi-bin/...05102496515.44

Ben

Low69CST · 07-17-2002, 10:57 AM

Use plenty of weld-thru primer, seam sealer, and undercoating.

Cyco Path · 07-17-2002, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 67Fleetsidedream
Here I found one for you.

http://www.autotoolmart.com/cgi-bin/...05102496515.44

Ben

Danke!

Slammed67 · 07-17-2002, 07:42 PM

Along with the above tips, I would suggest using on the parts of the patch panels that you need, speciifically the floors and cab corners). There is no sense cutting out good original metal just to make the panel fit. Instead, cut the panel to fit the rust area you cut out of the truck. I made that mistake when replacing my cab corners. Take your time and have fun!

ebfabman · 07-17-2002, 07:46 PM

Guess I've been screwing up for years.........

Replaced many cab corners, rockers, and floors etc, and never braced anything ever.

Most recently on my own truck I replaced left and right front and rear floors, all four cab supports, right and left "A" pillars, right and left "B" pillars, inner and outer rockers (both sides) right and left cab corners, and right and left kick panels all finished with no bondo at all and all done with NO bracing anywhere.

Both original doors with the original hinges fit and open/close perfectly afterward.

Now if you're gonna do some choppin tops, some bracing might help.

Maybe I've just been real lucky........

big blue 72 · 07-17-2002, 11:18 PM

what should i buy? i will only be able to run 110.
probably just use it for panel work too......

07-16-2002, 07:45 PM	#1
chevy2racr So Many Ideas, So Little Money Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Marshalltown, IA Posts: 1,610	body work tips anyone? some time soon gonna try to do rockers, corners, floor pans on the step side, any tips on doin this stuff, Its not gonna be any show truck, just lookin to have it look decent. the bed will prolly be off when I do it, maybe front clip too. its just gonna be a driver planin on flat black... Bryce __________________ 72 Blazer 3/4 ton running gear 4.10s NP205/TH350 350 4in lift half doors 71 C10 with 454 99 S-10 5.1L SBC 700R4 09 Malibu Marshalltown, Iowa

07-17-2002, 06:30 AM	#2
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	A decent mig welder and most importantly, a spot weld cutter. Other than that, take your time and have fun. It's not bad once you get into it. Replace the floor braces while your in there. Since your replacing the floor, you can do all the work from the top side. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

07-17-2002, 09:40 AM	#3
Downtown Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New Palestine, IN Posts: 471	Make sure when you replace the rockers you do it with the doors on the truck. If you do it without the doors on the truck, it is almost for certain that the rockers won't fit correctly. Tack the rockers in place than remove the doors and finish the job. __________________ 72 Super Cheyenne Longbed 350 49,000 original miles and My dad ordered it new 66 Chevy Caprice 2 dr 77 Caprice Estate Wagon New Palestine, IN

07-17-2002, 10:26 AM	#4
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,397	Downtown is definately right about having the doors in place. The rockers add a lot of strength to the cab so removing them without the doors in place will cause the door opening to "flex", and then when you put the door back on, it won't fit or the gaps won't be even. The same goes for when chopping tops... A good piece of advice, maybe not neccesary when just replacing rockers, is to reinforce the cab before you cut. You might consider welding the doors in place (in just a couple spots you can cut loose later). If you are also cutting out the floor, you can cross brace the doors and the cab together with some 1" square tubing to hold everything true. One more tip for you, use a guide coat before you paint. This is what I do before I paint anything. I spray a light colored primer over everything. The I take a can of black laquer and very lightly "fog" the primer with the black. I repeat, very lightly. Then with 600 grit paper, I wet sand everything and take off the black laquer. I know by looking if the black comes off quickly, that's a high spot. I know where my low spots are when it takes a long time to get the black off. Sometimes you will have to go back and re-primer certain areas where you sand through a high spot. Remember, take your time to do it right. All of that blocking will pay off. Good luck! __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

07-17-2002, 10:57 AM	#7
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	Use plenty of weld-thru primer, seam sealer, and undercoating. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

07-17-2002, 10:49 AM	#6
67Fleetsidedream Wiseass secured himself a BAN Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: MOON!!! Posts: 2,282	Here I found one for you. http://www.autotoolmart.com/cgi-bin/...05102496515.44 Ben

07-17-2002, 07:42 PM	#9
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Along with the above tips, I would suggest using on the parts of the patch panels that you need, speciifically the floors and cab corners). There is no sense cutting out good original metal just to make the panel fit. Instead, cut the panel to fit the rust area you cut out of the truck. I made that mistake when replacing my cab corners. Take your time and have fun! __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

07-17-2002, 07:46 PM	#10
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	Guess I've been screwing up for years......... Replaced many cab corners, rockers, and floors etc, and never braced anything ever. Most recently on my own truck I replaced left and right front and rear floors, all four cab supports, right and left "A" pillars, right and left "B" pillars, inner and outer rockers (both sides) right and left cab corners, and right and left kick panels all finished with no bondo at all and all done with NO bracing anywhere. Both original doors with the original hinges fit and open/close perfectly afterward. Now if you're gonna do some choppin tops, some bracing might help. Maybe I've just been real lucky........ Last edited by ebfabman; 07-17-2002 at 07:48 PM.

07-17-2002, 11:18 PM	#11
big blue 72 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: hamilton,ohio,usa Posts: 1,499	buying a new welder for a beginner... what should i buy? i will only be able to run 110. probably just use it for panel work too......



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