4-speed manual.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Metallicamaro · 01-29-2006, 10:16 PM

I have a problem... when the truck is running theres a grinding noise from the tranny or near the tranny, the grinding comes and goes with 5 seconds.. Low fluid? how do i put fluid in the darn thing to begin with? theres the fluid level check on the side.. put how do i put fluid in through the side? or is that my tranny is toast?

marvxyz1 · 01-29-2006, 10:28 PM

On the side of the transmission if that is a filler plug I would stick my finger in the hole and if Iyou felt transmission oil at that level, it would be okay. If you don't feel transmission oil, fill a turkey baster with trans. oil and squirt it in the trans plug hole until the oil comes to the plug hole level.

Metallicamaro · 01-29-2006, 10:41 PM

if its low it would create the grinding noise?

c-1072 · 01-29-2006, 10:57 PM

Does the noise go away when you push the clutch in ? if it does it is a bad throwout bearing .

marvxyz1 · 01-30-2006, 09:10 PM

I would try to fill the transmission. It may or may not cure the grinding noise. Most likely you may have some damage.

Metallicamaro · 01-30-2006, 11:07 PM

not sure, i will check tomarrow when theres light from the sun, my starter is acting up, all i get is a click when i try to crank it over.. then i have to hit the starter a few times to hear a click from there and try to start it. PITA time for a rebuild.. anyway i have a few 4spds laying around (2) and am wondering what it takes to swap em'.. without removing all the clutch stuff and bell housing is it possible?

**special-K** · 01-31-2006, 07:21 AM

Nope.Unbolt the bellhousing from the motor.You`ll want to inspect the clutch and flywheel.Mark them,so if it`s all good,it will go back together as it was.That`s what I do,anyway.You could be having a flywheel problem.

Metallicamaro · 01-31-2006, 10:11 PM

weird, didnt make any noises just now, so its all good i guess. i still need to check the fluid.. the external linkage on the 4spd is wore out and shifting from 1st to 2nd is a Bit** but today i went up and down the road got er' down, and i cannot dowshift into 1st.. i figured you could, but ya cant, it grinds..

Russell · 02-01-2006, 03:05 AM

Yeah, no chances of downshifting into 1st gear (assuming L, 1, 2, 3) unless you are going less than 5mph.

There are a few things that make the shifter really sloppy -- First is the shifter itself. There are two things that go wrong with it, first is that the little half ball at the bottom of it that is attached to the socket in the tranny cracks, and breaks loose from the shifter handle. Makes for some huge slop. next thing is that if you dissassemble the shifter, you'll find that there is a place for an O-ring to be installed. If its still there, there will only be little bits and peices.

So, to fix this, re-weld the shifter back together, and replace the o-ring.

Next thing that makes a whole lot of slop, is a pair of roll pins in the top of the transmission's housing. They wear out and break, or back out of their holes. Only thing you can do here is replace the pins, or take a big hose clamp, and wrap it around them to make sure that they are held inside the housing, and have no chance to back out.

Once you fix these three things, you'll find that suddenly your shifter will be nice and firm. You'll be able to shift the transmission far easier

Also, if it isn't already popping out of gear under acceleration, make sure that you don't drive around with your hand on the shifter. The shift forks have some sort of plastic coating on the tips that wears down, and causes them not to engage the shift collars all the way, which allows the transmission to fall out of gear. Driving with your hand on the shifter will hugely increase the rate of wear on those little tips.

I suppose I should mention how to get the shifter out of the tranny so you can take a look at it right away:

Take the shifter boot off the floor, and slide it up the shifter a bit. You'll then see the top of the transmission. Where the shifter goes in, there is a bit of a half circle type thing sticking up right around the shifter. If you push that down, and turn it counter clockwise, it'll pop out, and you will be able to pull the shifter right out. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral, or you'll never get the shifter back in later, lol

If you need pics or anything, lemme know, and I'd be happy to run out to the K25 and snap a few pics of it's SM465 for you

01-29-2006, 10:16 PM	#1
Metallicamaro Boil'n rice Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Maine Posts: 77	4-speed manual.... I have a problem... when the truck is running theres a grinding noise from the tranny or near the tranny, the grinding comes and goes with 5 seconds.. Low fluid? how do i put fluid in the darn thing to begin with? theres the fluid level check on the side.. put how do i put fluid in through the side? or is that my tranny is toast?

01-29-2006, 10:28 PM	#2
marvxyz1 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Posts: 106	Re: 4-speed manual.... On the side of the transmission if that is a filler plug I would stick my finger in the hole and if Iyou felt transmission oil at that level, it would be okay. If you don't feel transmission oil, fill a turkey baster with trans. oil and squirt it in the trans plug hole until the oil comes to the plug hole level.

01-29-2006, 10:41 PM	#3
Metallicamaro Boil'n rice Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Maine Posts: 77	Re: 4-speed manual.... if its low it would create the grinding noise?

01-29-2006, 10:57 PM	#4
c-1072 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: rochester NY Posts: 777	Re: 4-speed manual.... Does the noise go away when you push the clutch in ? if it does it is a bad throwout bearing .

01-30-2006, 09:10 PM	#5
marvxyz1 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Posts: 106	Re: 4-speed manual.... I would try to fill the transmission. It may or may not cure the grinding noise. Most likely you may have some damage.

01-30-2006, 11:07 PM	#6
Metallicamaro Boil'n rice Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Maine Posts: 77	Re: 4-speed manual.... not sure, i will check tomarrow when theres light from the sun, my starter is acting up, all i get is a click when i try to crank it over.. then i have to hit the starter a few times to hear a click from there and try to start it. PITA time for a rebuild.. anyway i have a few 4spds laying around (2) and am wondering what it takes to swap em'.. without removing all the clutch stuff and bell housing is it possible?

01-31-2006, 07:21 AM	#7
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,859	Re: 4-speed manual.... Nope.Unbolt the bellhousing from the motor.You`ll want to inspect the clutch and flywheel.Mark them,so if it`s all good,it will go back together as it was.That`s what I do,anyway.You could be having a flywheel problem. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

01-31-2006, 10:11 PM	#8
Metallicamaro Boil'n rice Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Maine Posts: 77	Re: 4-speed manual.... weird, didnt make any noises just now, so its all good i guess. i still need to check the fluid.. the external linkage on the 4spd is wore out and shifting from 1st to 2nd is a Bit** but today i went up and down the road got er' down, and i cannot dowshift into 1st.. i figured you could, but ya cant, it grinds..

02-01-2006, 03:05 AM	#9
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Re: 4-speed manual.... Yeah, no chances of downshifting into 1st gear (assuming L, 1, 2, 3) unless you are going less than 5mph. There are a few things that make the shifter really sloppy -- First is the shifter itself. There are two things that go wrong with it, first is that the little half ball at the bottom of it that is attached to the socket in the tranny cracks, and breaks loose from the shifter handle. Makes for some huge slop. next thing is that if you dissassemble the shifter, you'll find that there is a place for an O-ring to be installed. If its still there, there will only be little bits and peices. So, to fix this, re-weld the shifter back together, and replace the o-ring. Next thing that makes a whole lot of slop, is a pair of roll pins in the top of the transmission's housing. They wear out and break, or back out of their holes. Only thing you can do here is replace the pins, or take a big hose clamp, and wrap it around them to make sure that they are held inside the housing, and have no chance to back out. Once you fix these three things, you'll find that suddenly your shifter will be nice and firm. You'll be able to shift the transmission far easier Also, if it isn't already popping out of gear under acceleration, make sure that you don't drive around with your hand on the shifter. The shift forks have some sort of plastic coating on the tips that wears down, and causes them not to engage the shift collars all the way, which allows the transmission to fall out of gear. Driving with your hand on the shifter will hugely increase the rate of wear on those little tips. I suppose I should mention how to get the shifter out of the tranny so you can take a look at it right away: Take the shifter boot off the floor, and slide it up the shifter a bit. You'll then see the top of the transmission. Where the shifter goes in, there is a bit of a half circle type thing sticking up right around the shifter. If you push that down, and turn it counter clockwise, it'll pop out, and you will be able to pull the shifter right out. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral, or you'll never get the shifter back in later, lol If you need pics or anything, lemme know, and I'd be happy to run out to the K25 and snap a few pics of it's SM465 for you __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) Last edited by Russell; 02-01-2006 at 03:05 AM.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.