How to move a non-tilt column forward.

[JAKES 68GMC]

I read in the FAQ section how to switch over to a tilt column. But, wanting to stay looking original, I dont want to swap over to a tilt. A few members in the thread said they push their normal columns forward, and it helped a lot with gut clearence and comfort. It sounds like a GOOD idea to push the column forward. Can anyone tell me how to do this? Pics would help, too. Thank you for help.
Jake

[JAKES 68GMC]

ttt

[wolfthing2000]

I am right along with this proposition also. Can it be done?? That wheel is so close it is almost spooky!

[HeavyD]

You need to collapse the intermediate shaft that connects the splined end of the column to the steering box. If you look closely there are 2 little holes filled with a plastic looking plug...these need to be drilled out/removed, then the shaft can be pushed inward or "collapsed". If you squish it in too far you can pull it out again or push it in further as needed. The 69-72 trucks have this shaft, I am not sure about 67-68. Hope this helps.

[junkyardjohn]

ALL THE 67s & MOST ALL OF THE 68s I'VE SEEN ARE ONE PIECE SOLID SHAFTS WITH NO INTERMEDIATE OR SECTOR SHAFT. 69 THRU 72 STEERING COLLUMNS ARE A DIRECT BOLT IN THOUGH. JOHN

[sneakysnake]

Colapsing the "intermediate shaft " wont give you "belly" room.The whole column has to be moved,throwing off your linkage and adapting the floor and dash mounting points.Here is a diagram of a tilt just to show the components involved.

[Putter]

The way I have always done it is to measure and see how much more towards the dash you want to go (Say 1", 2", etc...)
Then drop the column under the dash and loosen the clamp that is on the outside of the firewall. Remove column if needed....

Then measure and make a new slot in the column using a dremel with cut-off wheel(SEE RED LETTER "A") closer to the steering wheel roughly the number of inches closer to the dash you want the steering wheel (1" closer, 2" closer, etc..)

You will have to collapse the shaft as suggested in a previous post (SEE RED LETTER "B"), but that is not a large task either.

Then just reinstall the column using the new slot as the locating point under the dash and tighten the clamp back that is just outside the firewall.

As suggested, this might make your pointer be out of alignment, so you just have to loosen connector on the column that goes to the shift linkage, set the pointer in the right spot, then re-tighten. (Have a buddy help....it will make it easier to set the pointer.)

Hope that helps.

[shifty]

The hard part is when you bust out those plastic rivets, you need to lube the hell out of the shaft or it's never coming back down again. I'm stuck in that predicament as we speak.

[JAKES 68GMC]

Originally Posted by HeavyD

You need to collapse the intermediate shaft that connects the splined end of the column to the steering box. If you look closely there are 2 little holes filled with a plastic looking plug...these need to be drilled out/removed, then the shaft can be pushed inward or "collapsed". If you squish it in too far you can pull it out again or push it in further as needed. The 69-72 trucks have this shaft, I am not sure about 67-68. Hope this helps.

My truck HAS got the shaft with the funny plugs in it. After looking at it, I appears to be pretty easy to move the comun. Just collapse the column that goes the the splines of the steering box like everyone said, then loosen up the column clamps in the engine bay and cab, and slide it down. Am I wrong? Is there more to it then that?

Putter, you have me lost with the dremel and cutting the column. Why do you have to cut the column? I could really use the belly space.I have the seat as far as it will go, and its barely enough. I'd hate to ditch that old, cracked GMC steering wheel for a smaller one.
Jake

[yank]

Originally Posted by JAKES 68GMC

Putter, you have me lost with the dremel and cutting the column. Why do you have to cut the column? I could really use the belly space.I have the seat as far as it will go, and its barely enough. I'd hate to ditch that old, cracked GMC steering wheel for a smaller one.
Jake

There is a small tit at the top of the brake pedal bracket where the steering column sits against it. that tit goes in the slot in the column Putter is talking about. It helps to align the steering column and would help keep the column from turning should the mounting clamps loosen up for some reason. You are not cutting the column,just making a hole for the tit to go into.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by shifty

The hard part is when you bust out those plastic rivets, you need to lube the hell out of the shaft or it's never coming back down again. I'm stuck in that predicament as we speak.

SHIFTY... TRY LOCKING THE MALE PART OF THE SHAFT IN A VICE & HITTING THE FLANGE WHERE THE RAG JOINT GOES WITH A BFH. I'VE MADE THESE TOO SHORT BEFORE & THIS WORKED FOR ME. JOHN

[JAKES 68GMC]

Big hammers can solve loads of problems. Thanks for the replies.

[Putter]

Originally Posted by yank

There is a small tit at the top of the brake pedal bracket where the steering column sits against it. that tit goes in the slot in the column Putter is talking about. It helps to align the steering column and would help keep the column from turning should the mounting clamps loosen up for some reason. You are not cutting the column,just making a hole for the tit to go into.

Exactly!

[JAKES 68GMC]

Another quick Q, if I get those little plastic plugs out, do I need to put some bolts in the itermediate shaft to replace the plugs, or will it be fine without them??? Thanks guys

[TP from Cntl PA]

I always am amazed at how people percieve the comfort in these year trucks. Me personally, I love the steering wheel position and size stock. I guess that is what happens when you have been old tractors since a youngin' and been driving these trucks since then as well. I feel out of place when driving a new vehicle with the wheel a "LONG stretch" away.

The K20 I just bought has a small 14" wheel in it............It will get tossed for the OEM 17" black one that I have an extra laying here waiting to be put in.

[JAKES 68GMC]

TP, I'll admit it. I have a fat gut and need the space. Actually, I was going to put a smaller chrome 3-spoke steering wheel in I feel out of place driving new vehicles in general!

[TP from Cntl PA]

Originally Posted by JAKES 68GMC

TP, I'll admit it. I have a fat gut and need the space. Actually, I was going to put a smaller chrome 3-spoke steering wheel in I feel out of place driving new vehicles in general!

Without powersteering I wouldn't do it The bigger wheel is for more leverage..............Drove enough 2-tons and bigger without powersteering to know why they put such a large wheel in

[70short/step]

Originally Posted by JAKES 68GMC

Another quick Q, if I get those little plastic plugs out, do I need to put some bolts in the itermediate shaft to replace the plugs, or will it be fine without them??? Thanks guys

Those plastic plugs do not go all the way thru the shaft. It is a plastic sleeve that have a a nub on either side of it. They protrude thru the shaft and that is what you are drilling out. So no you do not need to replace them with bolts or anything.

[JAKES 68GMC]

Originally Posted by TP from Cntl PA

Without powersteering I wouldn't do it The bigger wheel is for more leverage..............Drove enough 2-tons and bigger without powersteering to know why they put such a large wheel in

I may have a parts truck lined up with power-steering. Will keep you posted. Manual steering has taught me a lot the little I have drove with it. Now I can see why the steering wheel is all cracked

SO if I am understanding this right, you can drill the plugs out, slide the column ahead, and it will be fine? I don't need to put bolts through the shaft to hold it together?

[70short/step]

Correct! The plastic is there in case of accident the steering column can collapse a little.

[sakohntr]

You can also remove those plastic plugs with a little help from a torch.....