Panel Backside Treatment

[67ChevyRedneck]

Just got a brand new set of doors and fenders from goodmark. Back in the day I used to use the Wal-Mart Mar-Hyde can of rubberized undercoating on the underside of my panels. Not too happy with how it looks after it gets dirty, it never comes "clean" again. What has everyone else used on the backside of your new or used fenders? I'm kind of limited to spray can or brush on stuff.

Also, what has everyone used to "seal-up" the door insides. I don't want rust to ever come back

[67ChevyRedneck]

Nobody has painted/undercoated, whatever, the backside of their fenders and the inside of the doors?

Y'all musta used somethin.....

[ClemsonChevy]

First, whats UP! I am new to the forums, but I live in Seneca, SC right next to Clemson. We ain't but 30-40 minutes away from each other, chevy brother!

You might try some "spray on" bedliner. I work at an Advance Auto Parts and we sell in in a spray can. I'd give it a shot on a soda can or something and see what you think of the texture/durability. Other than regular paint, I can't think of anything else besides like Por15, but thats expensive stuff.

[Palf70Step]

I did my new (and old repaired) panels in Eastwood rust encapsulator. Then for the underside of the inner fenders I used some Wally world bed liner. You need to coat it in some sort of potective covering, either primer/paint or something like eastwood. before you added bedliner or undercoat. When I finish stripping/repaing my doors, inside will be done with the eastwood, then the dynamat/brownbag stuff.

On your doors, make sure you have drain holes. I know the repair panels for the botton of my doors did not have them in and I had to make them.

[mrein3]

I use old paint from previous paint jobs.
I painted the underside of my hood black. I put a new finder on at the same time and used the same black there. When I squirted the fender I made sure plenty of overspray got on the black so it wasn't so dark looking. I figure that fender is better off than anything the factory did.

For the inside of my rockers I plan to gin up a pressure pot. I have a can of eastwoods rust encapsulator I want to squirt in there from the front access hole. I got the idea from a post in this forum. The inside of the rockers never got any paint from the factory which is why they all rust out when the drain holes get plugged.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Thanks for the tips. That's probably what I did wrong before....I primed and then undercoated my back fenders with the mar-hyde stuff, I was always kinda iffy about the stuff. Maybe that's why theres quartersized rust holes in my fenders where the steps meet when 9 years ago there were none?

Bill, how is the bedliner stuff holdin up, was it in a can or roll-on? I'll have to check the doors, I'm not sure if I remember a drain hole now that I think about it... The fenders have the stock open drain areas...

Is there a place you can get rust encapsulator a little cheaper than eastwood (like jegs or something???) I've heard lots of good about it, might as well give it a try!

Clemson Chevy, I raced a guy in a blue 69/70 chevy longbed about 2 years ago down hwy 123 from seneca to clemson, woulda been in a black 67 stepside... we were going, umm, fast... wasn't you was it I went to clemson U for a whoppin 5 years. I graduated in may '04.

[dennislbrooks]

If the backside does not show, I used Zero-Rust with a 2" or 3" roller and a touch up brush. Do not prime beforehand.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

If the backside does not show, I used Zero-Rust with a 2" or 3" roller and a touch up brush. Do not prime beforehand.

What if the fenders are in primer (they are new)?

[dennislbrooks]

good point --- I should think before I open my mouth. The factory primer on my new panels actually would flake off with a scratch, maybe they do not etch prime them. Take a look at the material of your choice on the web and see what they say. here's one http://www.zero-rust.com/

[wanted]

I used zero-rust on my frame and it's tough stuff, I'll be using it on my panels as well. If you brush it be sure to thin it though. If you put it on too thick it'll take forever to harden.

[dennislbrooks]

I like the Zero-Rust stuff also-- rolling it puts a nice even texture on and it will flow out to even up. I know the eastwood stuff is good also. I also have it on my frame. It will also hold about anykind of paint if an overcoat is wanted. It is urethane based.

[Palf70Step]

67chevyredneck I think on one of the inner fenders I used spray on one and one I used roll on. Wasn't much difference. The truck has not see a lot of use since then, but on another vehicle I did with a friend it seems to be holding up OK after a year and about 20,000 miles. Only place I know to get eastwood is eastwood. I have not used rustmore, but I have heard lots of folks say good things about it. Not sure of the cost difference between the two. The inside of my dooors and some other areas of the truck I did with a brush because it does show and I made sure I got in the crack real good.

BTW unless you primed them, the new stuff is just some sort of coating and not a primer or paint product

[67ChevyRedneck]

Thanks for the help fellers. I went ahead and ordered some rust encapsulator from eastwood. Man that stuff is expensive. Guess I'll poke around Wally world to see what else I can find to use...

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Thanks for the help fellers. I went ahead and ordered some rust encapsulator from eastwood. Man that stuff is expensive. Guess I'll poke around Wally world to see what else I can find to use...

Yes it is expensive but how much were your new parts and your time. I tell my customers they can use what ever they want for parts and pieces but I get to use what I want for rust repair and sealing... That would Eastwoods products.

Kevin

[ClemsonChevy]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Clemson Chevy, I raced a guy in a blue 69/70 chevy longbed about 2 years ago down hwy 123 from seneca to clemson, woulda been in a black 67 stepside... we were going, umm, fast... wasn't you was it I went to clemson U for a whoppin 5 years. I graduated in may '04.

Naw, wasn't me. I didn't have a chevy truck at the time. I did use to autocross race down at the stadium in a red 1990 Plymouth Laser (eclipse/talon wannabe)
about 4-5 yrs ago. I just now got a 72 C20 and a 68 C10 off of a guy for cheap. So, my journey just now begins, lol. I currently drive a 95 2500.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Yes it is expensive but how much were your new parts and your time. I tell my customers they can use what ever they want for parts and pieces but I get to use what I want for rust repair and sealing... That would Eastwoods products.

Kevin

Thats what I figured too, especially after I noticed a couple patches of light surface rust inside my doors already. Gonna be fun trying to coat the inside of them babys. I ordered two quarts, that outta last me a while.

Bill, the doors do have drains on the bottom. They are not like OEM though, they are 3 simple slots along the bottom edge (one on each end and one in the middle).