Header Advice ?

[dmigura]

I have a manifold that is cracked and debating on wether to replace it, or go back with headers. I dont know how big of a difference they would make. I also have a standard transmission and worried about the linkage being in the way. Any advice would be appreciated.

[budbeater]

I just put hookers on mine and I had few fitment problems. Just give yourself a couple of days (it only takes a couple of hours, but you will get frustrated and will need to walk away on occasion) go slow and enlist the help of a friend or two.

Bud beater

[special-K]

Budbeater,describe what you had to do.The only time I put headers on a manual 4wd(`71),I had to relocate one of the arms on the clutch z-bar.I`m still unclear if there`s a bolt-on header set for thisapplication.I want to put them on my`72 Highlander w/400.

[Zoomad75]

I've got headers on my K5 (75) with the manual trans. No linkage issue. problem is the PO put them on and I don't know what brand they were. They are old, rusty and I've had to booger weld some holes shut in the collector so I wouln't even recommend what I got, even if I knew the name.

Given the crap I've put up with on these headers I'd say get another manifold to replace the cracked one. Stock manifolds are a dime a dozen and fit from 1973 to 1991, probably above and below those years too.

I've got stock manifolds for mine to go back on when I have some dough to redo my entire system. Warped header flanges and collectors SUCK!

[budbeater]

Originally Posted by special-K

Budbeater,describe what you had to do.The only time I put headers on a manual 4wd(`71),I had to relocate one of the arms on the clutch z-bar.I`m still unclear if there`s a bolt-on header set for thisapplication.I want to put them on my`72 Highlander w/400.

I just ordered the correct part number (Hooker) through summitt racing. They are a 1 5/8 primary/3" collector with inside/outside ceramic coating. They fit fine, but I did have to undo the shift linkage from the frame during the driver side install. It has plenty of clearance around the block, and they tuck up well for ground clearance. The real PITA was the driver side bolt closest to the firewall. It liked to bump the points of the hex head against the tube as it was being turned. The block sits very close to the firewall so it was fun fitting my thick forearms up there to get it in. I finally used a crows foot wrench to get it in and it went quickly then. All in all it was much simpler than installing the headers in my 95 Trans Am.

Budbeater

[DirtyLarry]

My opinion is…for the small amount of HP gained from headers it is not worth dealing with the never ending exhaust leaks, starter issues added heat under the hood, etc. If you are in to pulling the most HP from your rig then maybe headers are for you. If you veer off the assfault and wind up in remote areas that are a long walk from civilization, I would suggest sticking to OEM manifolds to keep things simple stupid. I went out of my way to run a late model crate 454 HO on L29 exhaust manifolds. I hate headers! I would rather deal with a restrictive exhaust system than deal with header issues anyday.

[special-K]

I had cheap headers on a`71 from`89-02 and never had a collector leak.I put headers on all my stuff.Budbeater,didn`t they give you the small hex bolts?Were they the SuperComps or what?Do you have a p/n?

[budbeater]

The part number from Summit Racing: HOK-2453-1HKR

The page I found with a 30 second search (summit has a great search engine).
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400390

Cost: $329 for ceramic coated headers (less underhood heat than uncoated headers or manifolds).

On other vehicles I have found over 40 rear wheel horsepower (as measured by a dynojet chassis dyno) by switching from manifolds to headers. You will have few if any leaks if you use copper gaskets and locking type header bolts. The ceramic coating increases the life of the header by several years, but you should keep the header clean (and dry when possible).

Now with all that being said, I bought my truck with some crappy rusty headers already on it so I just went ahead and replaced them with better headers. If it had manifolds I would have (following my tendancy for overkill) ported the manifolds, had them ceramic coated, and put them back on. Headers release stopped up horsepower, while manifolds tend to be more low maintenence for the mechanically challenged or lazy.

Budbeater

[special-K]

Thanks!...Then,there are Sanderson cast headers.The Covette ramshorns w/large outlets are sweet,but $$$.

[Mudder]

I'm telling you guys. If you cut the header flanges you will save yourself a lot of problems getting bolts started, leaks, and the bolts will stay tight. Since I started cutting mine I don't ever have any problems with leaks. Oh, and I use the $7 manifold gaskets. I don't have any leaks.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

mudder67...do you mean fly cut on a mill?

[special-K]

I missed whatever you said on this before,too.Do you mean plane the mating surface or cut the flange between the tubes so the flange is not continuous?

[Zoomad75]

Flange between the tubes. Which works in most cases. I've got a set of headers I got used for my 69 nova with 3 indivdual flanges and I couldn't get the darn things bolted up a spare engine I had on a stand. I'd get two out of the three flanges bolted up and would have to pry like hell to get the third to line up.

Some of the newer (higher quality) stuff is better but the cheap stuff hasn't changed much. If you want to pay $350 or more on preemo headers and then the cost to change the exhaust from Manifolds, it's your coin do what you want.

I'm lazy, I'd just get another manifold and call it a day.

[Mudder]

No, just a simple cut of the flange. It works. Makes getting the bolts started much easier. I believe when the weld the tubes to the flanges they warp. Look close at my headers between the front tubes, you can see where they are cut.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

OK....I'm pickin-up on what your layin down!!!!
saw-z-all not milling machine... ( i have both)

[Mudder]

Yep saw-z-all........