How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2006, 09:58 PM

Well, if you have read http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=192269 you know I just replaced my kerfagled twisted bent up longhorn bed for a bed of questionable quality. It looks better, and that is all that matters at this point.
however, as anyone who has bought a weathered step side or longhorn...or the hand full of SWB and LWB with wooden floors....the wood isn't always there. The cheaper the truck, the less likely it'll have any wood left in it.

Sometimes, they'll get creative and install something that won't rot.

OK, the way i did it is with some ply wood. Lots cheaper than the wood kits, way quicker, and hey, lets face it... this is good enough for my rig, and good enough is usually too good.

Gotta get all your junk outta the bed, your rotors you been holding on to, all the dead batteries that you been trying to find some one to buy off of you, the spare tire with a broken belt, and the other spare tire that gave out down town doin 70 on an on ramp on a bridge. (

You shoulda tossed most of that stuff moths ago.

Measure twice... cut once...or so they say. IMO, the best way to do it is to put the seam in the center. It looks better, and in all reality, it's probably a bit stronger too. I could go into detail on that, but I won't bore you with it. If you are doing a normal sized fleet then you'll only need 2 sheets, a step, and you'll only need one... a Longhorn... 3 sheets. Where ever you place the third, make sure you can secure it properly. You'll notice I ended up trimming opff quite a biut of wood. I did that so i can but them up on a cross member and secure it all down better.

You can half ass it a few ways... IMO, the only *right way to half ass it* (is there really a RIGHT WAY????) is to lift the body off the floor a little and slide the ply wood underneath. Not only will thish hide all your crappy cuts, but it'll make the bed stiffer, it'll lift the bed back up to match the lines on the cab (assuming it has good mounts) and it's just .... the right way to do it.

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2006, 10:08 PM

You can't just toss plywood in there, it'll rot in a year or two, and after paying top dollar for your plywood.. you want it to last. Plus, if you paint it black, less people will notice exactly what it is.

Supplies.....
If you are a wuss, or you actually have a woman in your life...who would njot like to find you with paint all over your hands..then you'll need some gloves.
You'll aslo need some brushes and some paint. I highly recomend NOT getting the foam crap like pictured. Save that for when the honey do list includes painting the bedroom. As far as paint, I have always liked the Rust-oleum brand. It is cheap, it looks good, it holds up...and it's cheap.

I used semi gloss black. Not only becouse it is cool, but it was on sale.

If you don't have a garage... look left and look right. Figure which neighbor you hate more, and then go lean the wood up on his fence. You could just plop it down on the portch, on the driveway, or on the picknick table... but you KNOW the cat will get on it, the dog will curl up and sleep on it, and the kids will play on it. You can put up a WET PAINT sign... but the animals don't read too well, and the kids won't slow down enough to see the sign.
You'll also need something to hold your paint while the beer is in your hand... and that something will double as a beer holder, when the can of paint is in your hand. Pretty nifty huh?

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2006, 10:15 PM

You'll want to paint with the grain.... not again'st the grain. If you go agains't the grain, it'll rip your gay POS sponge paint brush in no time, and you won't get very good coverage.
Once you've used up all your junk foam crap, you can grap some CLEAN rags... better yet, your Ex's favorite t-shirt... and spread the paint that way.
This is where the gloves come in real handy.
Make sure you can't see any bare wood... this includes on the sides...esp where you cut it with the rip blade.

Then, once that's all dried up, you'll need to turn it over and do the other side.

OK... I'm busted. I haven't done the other side yet... but I probably fooled a couple of you on that one.
Let it all dry and then leave it in the back yard a few days... Untill i come up with instructions on how to mount it all up in there.

68haywagon · 03-15-2006, 10:20 PM

Thanks for the info

LUV2XCLR8 · 03-15-2006, 10:27 PM

JAKES 68GMC · 03-15-2006, 10:45 PM

May try that when my bed wood rots out.

71SWBChevy · 03-15-2006, 10:47 PM

wow some people are creative!

JAKES 68GMC · 03-15-2006, 10:49 PM

If you wanted even higher quality, you could use pressure treated plywood.

cdowns · 03-15-2006, 10:56 PM

i would have used 12' sheets also personally think it would look better if you painted the whole piece of wood

chevy_fatman · 03-15-2006, 10:57 PM

I might just do that to my 'horn to preserve the stock wood that's left in there!

farside847 · 03-15-2006, 11:06 PM

You crack me up!

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2006, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

personally think it would look better if you painted the whole piece of wood

LOL!!!
I ended up painting the rest of it.
As for the length... I didn't know they made ply wood longer, and plus... well, this wood was free.

Brad · 03-15-2006, 11:23 PM

Very nice.

Jim_PA · 03-15-2006, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Nice cup holder!!

I'll probably do that to mine for a temporary fix, but I'll just leave all the old metal under there for extra support.

71chevytruckguy · 03-15-2006, 11:33 PM

LMAO.

that just made an end to a pretty good day. can't for the how to install part. lol. chris.

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2006, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

Nice cup holder!!

I'll probably do that to mine for a temporary fix, but I'll just leave all the old metal under there for extra support.

Jim... I have no idea what that 'cup holder' was...but I had no problems with it taking some sheet metal with it when i ripped it out.
This truck had all kinds of little wierd things done... small hinges on the bumper

a couple handles inside the bed... :dumb:

I found that with a stiff suispention, a heavy right foot and crappy roads, the metal strips rattle like crazy and drive me nuts.

**Canadian694x4** · 03-16-2006, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAKES 68GMC

If you wanted even higher quality, you could use pressure treated plywood.

I think cheap is the way Andy likes to go...that stuff costs like $75 CDN for a 3/4" x 4 x 8 sheet!!!

I know this cause I work at a lumber yard...but yes it would have prolly been perfect for the job.

Andy I love your project threads! You can always count on them being entertaining and informative

**special-K** · 03-16-2006, 08:00 AM

Andy,are you going to put plywood on the tailgate?That store-bought plastic liner clashes.

**dennislbrooks** · 03-16-2006, 09:15 AM

You could use 14 ga. deck plate and paint it with a wood grain. Kidding aside if it is functional - cool.

72armyswbtruck · 03-16-2006, 09:42 AM

Cheap, Cheap, but hey what ever works, I will be following this thing closely as I will probably do the same thing to my longhorn.

Longhorn Man · 03-16-2006, 10:03 AM

75 canadian, I don't know what the exchainge rate is anymore...but I know they are getting close, so I'll agree.... No way would I be (ABLE) to get that expensive stuff. I need to go and get that third piece today and get it cut out.
A deck plate would be awsome...I've considered diamond plate many times... but that all goes agains't my cheap nature.

Quote:

Andy,are you going to put plywood on the tailgate?That store-bought plastic liner clashes.

LOL!!!!

Naaaa, why do you think I'm painting the wood black?! In all reality, as much as I hate the drop in liner, I like it on the gate. That stuff does a great job at protecting, just nothing will stay where you put it.

Quote:

Andy I love your project threads! You can always count on them being entertaining and informative

Thank you. (and there were a couple other statements like that up there too... thank you to you guys too)
This is who I am.... I have an odd sence of humor, and I try to get people to laugh as much as I can.
And as far as the repair... lets face it, we don't all have the money to go and restore the bed of our trucks. Trust me, if I had the cash.... You'd be seeing how to do i tproperly.... not this half assed sh!t. There are different levels of half asssing things, and, IMO anyways... this IS actually the right way to do it. I've already gotten a couple PM's callin me a retard, a dumb ass, and even been told to quit b@stardizing my truck. To you people... BITE ME.

Anyone who has been following along over the last 4 years, or even anyone who looked at the pictures in http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=192269 this thread, you can see, this rig has actually come a long way. personally, I am pretty proud of what I have done. Some still roll there eyes, but in all reality, not many could have done more with the money I have spent. I have well less than 2 grand wrapped up in there...and that INCLUDES the money spent on the engine that lasted a day.

So to my anti fans, who think I suck becouse of my low buck nature, kiss off, and stop reading my threads.
To the rest of you, lets continue havin fun with our trucks, cheap, or not cheap.

<rant over>

68haywagon · 03-16-2006, 01:10 PM

Cheap is good!! But there will always be some kind of

I find the posts quite entertaining and enjoy reading them.

Luvlegs · 03-16-2006, 01:36 PM

Should I still feel bad for being cheap - fixing my broken buck up light switch by drilling and inserting a screw in it? I think not! Frugality often breeds ingenuity! If it's not a safety issue, I like homemade fixes - there IS a right and wrong way to half a$$ something. I can only hope those who PM'd you were trying to be humerous...

cdowns · 03-16-2006, 02:26 PM

there's quite a few on this board who don't get it as far as the budget(cheap) thing is concerned// alot of the younger guys who are struggling to just have something that looks good can't afford more than $200 for a paint job and they get belittled by the snobs who are reccomending $500 sprayguns and compressors for a couple of thousand bucks not to mention the $1000's for the paint/// i remember when i didn't even bother with budget thoughts cause i had no money to budget with

at a car show i'd much rather look and talk to guys with the lo-cost inovative solutions than the checkbook jockeys

good for you gettin the free wood and solving your problem // about the only thing i did to improve on it back when was i used a router to notch the edges for an overlapped seam

BobbyK · 03-16-2006, 02:36 PM

The fence thing and the reverse pic. thing had me on the floor!

I REALLY enjoy reading post's like this.

You should wright a book with that title..."The Proper Way to Half-Ass Things"

03-15-2006, 09:58 PM	#1
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Well, if you have read http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=192269 you know I just replaced my kerfagled twisted bent up longhorn bed for a bed of questionable quality. It looks better, and that is all that matters at this point. however, as anyone who has bought a weathered step side or longhorn...or the hand full of SWB and LWB with wooden floors....the wood isn't always there. The cheaper the truck, the less likely it'll have any wood left in it. Sometimes, they'll get creative and install something that won't rot. OK, the way i did it is with some ply wood. Lots cheaper than the wood kits, way quicker, and hey, lets face it... this is good enough for my rig, and good enough is usually too good. Gotta get all your junk outta the bed, your rotors you been holding on to, all the dead batteries that you been trying to find some one to buy off of you, the spare tire with a broken belt, and the other spare tire that gave out down town doin 70 on an on ramp on a bridge. ( You shoulda tossed most of that stuff moths ago. Measure twice... cut once...or so they say. IMO, the best way to do it is to put the seam in the center. It looks better, and in all reality, it's probably a bit stronger too. I could go into detail on that, but I won't bore you with it. If you are doing a normal sized fleet then you'll only need 2 sheets, a step, and you'll only need one... a Longhorn... 3 sheets. Where ever you place the third, make sure you can secure it properly. You'll notice I ended up trimming opff quite a biut of wood. I did that so i can but them up on a cross member and secure it all down better. You can half ass it a few ways... IMO, the only right way to half ass it (is there really a RIGHT WAY????) is to lift the body off the floor a little and slide the ply wood underneath. Not only will thish hide all your crappy cuts, but it'll make the bed stiffer, it'll lift the bed back up to match the lines on the cab (assuming it has good mounts) and it's just .... the right way to do it.

03-15-2006, 10:08 PM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it You can't just toss plywood in there, it'll rot in a year or two, and after paying top dollar for your plywood.. you want it to last. Plus, if you paint it black, less people will notice exactly what it is. Supplies..... If you are a wuss, or you actually have a woman in your life...who would njot like to find you with paint all over your hands..then you'll need some gloves. You'll aslo need some brushes and some paint. I highly recomend NOT getting the foam crap like pictured. Save that for when the honey do list includes painting the bedroom. As far as paint, I have always liked the Rust-oleum brand. It is cheap, it looks good, it holds up...and it's cheap. I used semi gloss black. Not only becouse it is cool, but it was on sale. If you don't have a garage... look left and look right. Figure which neighbor you hate more, and then go lean the wood up on his fence. You could just plop it down on the portch, on the driveway, or on the picknick table... but you KNOW the cat will get on it, the dog will curl up and sleep on it, and the kids will play on it. You can put up a WET PAINT sign... but the animals don't read too well, and the kids won't slow down enough to see the sign. You'll also need something to hold your paint while the beer is in your hand... and that something will double as a beer holder, when the can of paint is in your hand. Pretty nifty huh?

03-15-2006, 10:15 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it You'll want to paint with the grain.... not again'st the grain. If you go agains't the grain, it'll rip your gay POS sponge paint brush in no time, and you won't get very good coverage. Once you've used up all your junk foam crap, you can grap some CLEAN rags... better yet, your Ex's favorite t-shirt... and spread the paint that way. This is where the gloves come in real handy. Make sure you can't see any bare wood... this includes on the sides...esp where you cut it with the rip blade. Then, once that's all dried up, you'll need to turn it over and do the other side. OK... I'm busted. I haven't done the other side yet... but I probably fooled a couple of you on that one. Let it all dry and then leave it in the back yard a few days... Untill i come up with instructions on how to mount it all up in there.

03-15-2006, 10:20 PM	#4
68haywagon I'm watching you! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Levittown, PA Posts: 1,822	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Thanks for the info __________________ 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 4WD 1993 Chevrolet C-1500 W/T - Blue - 4.3L V-6, 4 speed auto - Dad's (RIP) 1992 Chevrolet S10 - LS swap project 1968 Chevrolet C-10 longbed fleetside - sold

03-15-2006, 10:27 PM	#5
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,476	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

03-15-2006, 10:45 PM	#6
JAKES 68GMC Aluminum slot wheels rule... Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Maine Posts: 6,212	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it May try that when my bed wood rots out.

03-15-2006, 10:47 PM	#7
71SWBChevy Post Whore Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Owensboro KY Posts: 11,905	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it wow some people are creative! __________________ Drew '71 Chevy 350/TH350 Hugger Orange Currently just a rolling frame, body work soon to follow!!! Check out my Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=212927 Daily Driver: 1997 Chevrolet S-10 with more gears than pistons

03-15-2006, 10:49 PM	#8
JAKES 68GMC Aluminum slot wheels rule... Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Maine Posts: 6,212	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it If you wanted even higher quality, you could use pressure treated plywood.

03-15-2006, 10:56 PM	#9
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it i would have used 12' sheets also personally think it would look better if you painted the whole piece of wood __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

03-15-2006, 10:57 PM	#10
chevy_fatman Where's my beer? Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: I live in the state of denial.... Posts: 5,621	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it I might just do that to my 'horn to preserve the stock wood that's left in there! __________________ Paul How do you make the invisible, visible?.........You take it away.

03-15-2006, 11:06 PM	#11
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it You crack me up! __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

03-15-2006, 11:23 PM	#13
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,673	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Very nice. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

03-15-2006, 11:33 PM	#15
71chevytruckguy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Kernersville, NC Posts: 599	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it LMAO. that just made an end to a pretty good day. can't for the how to install part. lol. chris. __________________ its a work in progess. 71 c-10 lwb, in the middle of frame off restoration. 69 c-10 swb, drag truck, 406 sbc, balanced, comp 292 cam, ported, polished, gasket matched, and bowl blended pro comp 210cc heads, 2.02/1.60 ferrea valves,1.6 roller rockers, re curved hei with msd 6al box, 2-step rev limter, accel 300+ wires, ported victor jr intake, holley 750 double pumper carb, dynomax 1 5/8 headers, 4 spd munci m-20 with super case and iron midplate, mr. gasket vertigate shifter, 5.38 pro gears with full spool, 33 spline moser axles and c-clip elimators, line-loc, 5 gal fuel cell, holley blue pump. 7.807 @ 88.37mph 1.60 60FT 80 g-20 van, tow rig, cammed 305, th350, 10 bolt 88 jeep wrangler, dd, 258, ax-15 swap, 4.5" lift, 33x12.50's, lockers, 3.55's

03-16-2006, 08:00 AM	#18
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,861	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Andy,are you going to put plywood on the tailgate?That store-bought plastic liner clashes. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

03-16-2006, 09:15 AM	#19
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,766	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it You could use 14 ga. deck plate and paint it with a wood grain. Kidding aside if it is functional - cool.



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03-16-2006, 09:42 AM	#20
72armyswbtruck Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,034	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Cheap, Cheap, but hey what ever works, I will be following this thing closely as I will probably do the same thing to my longhorn. __________________ "Remember, They can Kill You, but they can't eat You, That's against the law!!!!!!!!!"

03-16-2006, 01:10 PM	#22
68haywagon I'm watching you! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Levittown, PA Posts: 1,822	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Cheap is good!! But there will always be some kind of I find the posts quite entertaining and enjoy reading them. __________________ 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 4WD 1993 Chevrolet C-1500 W/T - Blue - 4.3L V-6, 4 speed auto - Dad's (RIP) 1992 Chevrolet S10 - LS swap project 1968 Chevrolet C-10 longbed fleetside - sold Last edited by 68haywagon; 03-16-2006 at 01:11 PM.

03-16-2006, 01:36 PM	#23
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it Should I still feel bad for being cheap - fixing my broken buck up light switch by drilling and inserting a screw in it? I think not! Frugality often breeds ingenuity! If it's not a safety issue, I like homemade fixes - there IS a right and wrong way to half a$$ something. I can only hope those who PM'd you were trying to be humerous... __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

03-16-2006, 02:26 PM	#24
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it there's quite a few on this board who don't get it as far as the budget(cheap) thing is concerned// alot of the younger guys who are struggling to just have something that looks good can't afford more than $200 for a paint job and they get belittled by the snobs who are reccomending $500 sprayguns and compressors for a couple of thousand bucks not to mention the $1000's for the paint/// i remember when i didn't even bother with budget thoughts cause i had no money to budget with at a car show i'd much rather look and talk to guys with the lo-cost inovative solutions than the checkbook jockeys good for you gettin the free wood and solving your problem // about the only thing i did to improve on it back when was i used a router to notch the edges for an overlapped seam __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

03-16-2006, 02:36 PM	#25
BobbyK Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,Mi. Posts: 1,771	Re: How to half @ss a new bed floor.... or how NOT to do it The fence thing and the reverse pic. thing had me on the floor! I REALLY enjoy reading post's like this. You should wright a book with that title..."The Proper Way to Half-Ass Things" __________________ 71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension. Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI. See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE

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