Por-15

[speedracer]

Where is the best place to get it? going price? and any comments on it? thanks

[cdowns]

in a few weeks atthe swap meet at stafford motor speedway

April 2===motorcycles swapmeet
April 9 =====TYRODS swapmeet

[Novaguy73]

Ill comment...the stuff is awesome and durable as all hell

[blazerparts]

por15.com, great stuff

[rage'nrat638]

i got mine at the local body shop supply..with my son's discount 22.00 quart

[jay-dawg]

Here's a pic of my frame. The coils and rear diff was spraypainted with rustoleum hammerite (sp?) which is a dark grey. I would recommend you going through the steps por-15 recommends. Before you paint, knock down the white crud that bulds up with a scotch pad, wipe down, and your ready to rock. I used a "smooth surface" paint roller on the flat surfaces and paintbrush in the hard to reach areas.

Jay

[Longhorn Man]

Don't forget to paint over it if the sun hits it on a regular basis, POR is not UV safe.
Other than that... it's some kick ass stuff.

[Rokcrln]

What we will be doing on Project Penicillin is to take POR15 and use a body cavity sprayer and get the por15 up into the "A" pillars , rockers, head liner and windshield frame as well as any hard to reach areas. This is just a good extra precausion that will ensure many more years out of your project.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Longhorn Man]

That's what I wanna do once I find some sheet metal worth keeping.

[booth]

Your not kidding about the UV. I used POR on the back half of my frame, just like yours, had to kick my truck out of the shop over the winter with the frame exposed. It turned that rock hard epoxy into dust, Its still there but its all chalked up now.
Paul

[stope4]

It's great stuff but it's all about prep. Follow the directions.

[leadfoot067]

www.por15.com

[Rollie396]

Make sure to follow the safety recommendations too.That stuff is very very toxic.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Novaguy73

Ill comment...the stuff is awesome and durable as all hell

\

yeah, if you precisely do all of the prepping procedures to the part you're painting, you don't get it on your hands, you don't get any water near it and the part you're painting won't be in the sun, then sure, it's great.

Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator is a more user-friendly better product to use, hands down.

[shifty]

oh - and the best thing about Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator: It comes in every color under the rainbow - they sell a tint and dye version where you can tint it or dye it out. you can also thin it to your desired consistency, it's very user friendly and easy to spray...you can spray, brush or rattle can.

i hear a lot of guys swear by POR but most of them have been using it for a long time or haven't bothered trying the Zero Rust product or Eastwood's products. there's a lot of other stuff out there...POR was just too complicated and it was too easy to screw it up. it's expensive, results are varied, it can't hold up to the sun well enough and requires more prep than I want to put up (as someone else stated - it turns to powder when exposed to hte sun)

i'm no body man by any means, so i don't dork with POR. there's no point when you have other products like Eastwood's RE.

does anyone know if you can color change the POR15?

[72armyswbtruck]

Hum never really considered any other product except POR-15, maybe you have changed my mind, I will definetly check the other products out. Thanks

[Green Machine]

We did the Eastwood RE on the frame of our 70. No special prep, just scraped the heavy stuff and power washed everything really good, let it dry and painted with a brush. Easy to use and UV resistant too.
Laquer thinner will remove it though and I'm going to be pretty careful when we bleed the brakes as I don't know how well it resists oil and brake fluid.

[cdowns]

something to keep in mind about eastwood products // they manufacture NOTHING except catalogues all thier products are nothing more than rebranded products manufactered by other companies so you can get the identical products elsewhere for far less// por 15 manufactures and develops it's own products and as far as special or difficult to prep well i was about 10 years old when i learned you don't paint over grease and you don't paint in the rain yes it will fade in uv but not breakdown i had the inside of a bed painted por15 and 4years in direct florida sunlight it was offcolor but never peeled or flaked.. if you purchase from eastwood you're paying mostly for the cataloge not the product

[Rollie396]

cdowns,I didn't know that about eastwoods.I have used some of their products though and I'm very happy with them.
You said it all with you prep comments.I can't wait to use the por engine kit I bought,it's gonna be very cool!

[Longhorn Man]

while I have not used the other brands... I do use a lot of POR... clean, scrape, coat.... just like you described.
It is a pita to have to paint over it, I'll say that, and also, white POR is cool if you plan on a light color paint.

[cdowns]

por 15 is easier to paint over now with thier new self etch primer // spray it over the por 15 (no sanding)and it's ready to topcoat in 15minutes

[stope4]

I'm not an expert, but POR does not turn to dust when exposed to sunlight over long periods. All it does is fade, just like painted in bedliners. There are other products out there that are just as good. Some maybe better than others. I'm not sure any hold up well to the good ole DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid. They all hold up to DOT 5 silicone fluid but that's a different issue. No matter what you use, you will have to prep to degrease. You probably can paint any of the rust proofers ove light to medium rust and get it to work.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

It is good stuff just make sure you put plastic between the lid and can before you close it or you will have to cut the can apart to get it out..

[johnnyp]

I painter my frame with POR-15 about 4 years ago and it seems to be holding up great. But, it was such a horrible experience that when it came time to paint under the hood I decided to give ZeroRust a try. I can't tell any difference in the parts painted with either product, but the ZeroRust was WAY easier to use - no toxic fumes and I was actually able to get it off my skin. The POR-15 had to wear off. I'm sticking with ZeroRust unless something better comes along.

[4x4Poet]

I topcoat POR15 by waiting ~3-4 hours for the POR15 to get sticky but not wet. Touching it won't stain a finger, but might make a fingerprint impression. That's when I topcoat with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black or NAPA Martin/Seymour equivalent for UV protection. The topcoat sticks to the POR15 without primer if you hit it during the "sticky window" (clean jokes welcome). Bsesides saving "tie-coat" primer costs, this also solves the problem of having to mask POR15'd areas that don't need UV protection to prevent primer overspray. I can also do the chassis & suspension POR15 work piecemeal this way without masking issues for the tie-coat primer step. Chassis Black is nearly indistinguishable from POR15 gloss black for a seamless look.

I think POR15 has three main benefits:
1. It moisture cures so a little moisture in a crack of a frame is no biggie.
2. It has a high film strength that makes it good for axle housings & suspension parts.
3. It self levels well when brushing (as do some other brand coatings).

I also like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Great product for when I don't need high impact film strength. Less prep hassle, fer sure.

BTW, POR15 and all the Eastwood products are not impervious to brake fluid. AFAIK, only plating has a fighting chance.