crankshaft endfloat - .001"-.006" ya right!!

[Greubin]

I pulled the th350 out of my truck to install the 700r4 today. While i was checking things out on the flexplate area, i checked the crank end float which I found to be about 1/16", forget about a few thou's of an inch ...I'm totally bummed. The engine runs strong - so now what do I do - I hate to pull the eng. at this point, I'm not ready for that. **** it, I'm installing the tranny throwing caution to the wind, may the engine gods have mercy!!

I'm pulling the damn thing - better to do it right than be sorry in the long run.

[bisquik65]

Looks to me that you may be pulling the motor out for a new crankshaft kit...If you dont the 700R4 front pump will get damaged by the converter moving forward and back everytime you stop and go...then it will tear the tranny up you just put it,It is about 150 for a crank kit...with bearings....I would advise to do it soon,so you wont be doing the engine and trans again...Not to much to fix it now... The 700R4 has an alumn front pump,unlike the Th350 you just pulled out that can take some abuse... Been there and done that several times,Just trying to help you save some $$...Erick

[Greubin]

Originally Posted by bisquik65

Looks to me that you may be pulling the motor out for a new crankshaft kit...If you dont the 700R4 front pump will get damaged by the converter moving forward and back everytime you stop and go...then it will tear the tranny up you just put it,It is about 150 for a crank kit...with bearings....I would advise to do it soon,so you wont be doing the engine and trans again...Not to much to fix it now... The 700R4 has an alumn front pump,unlike the Th350 you just pulled out that can take some abuse... Been there and done that several times,Just trying to help you save some $$...Erick

didn't know there was a crankshaft kit available. Um, so is it possible to install the crank kit with engine installed?

[bisquik65]

Its alot easier to remove the motor and put it on a stand,then turn is over,pull the timing cover and pan,then lossten rods and mains caps,then remove crank carefully... going back is imporant not to nick the crank with the rods.. It can be done in the truck ,but faster to pull it out and back in...

The crank kit gives you recond. crack,rod and main bearings..while your there put a stock oil pump in,cheap insurance..About 200 in parts,local store

[wolfthing2000]

Sounds like it's time to pull the mill. It is way easy on a stand and don't even think about doing it under the truck!!! I have changed out a rod bearing before, but that is pretty minor. At the same time it wouldn't cost toomuch more to rebuild the engine.

[Greubin]

After having dinner and a frosty beverage, I agree that the best thing to do is pull the engine. I just installed fresh heads about 500mi ago. I doubt a shortblock will set me back that much. Better to do it right then take shortcuts.

[krue]

Better to do it right, than to do it over.

[VetteVet]

Well I hate to disagree with all you guys but if you're worried about the torque converter damaging the front pump then you must remember how much you have to move it forward to bolt it to the flexplate. It's way more than .060. If there were issues with oil burning or low compression then I would go ahead and rebuild the engine. If it's a racer then yeah but for a driver then I think it will be fine. After all its been running excellent. JMHO

[wolfthing2000]

Okay. Let's think about that end playn number one more time okay??? A 1/16 of an inch is like way over .060 and that is almost 10xs that is Ten times !!!!!!! the limit. What or why or how come or what if or whatever is letting this be is MAJOR concern. Period!
Pull it !!!!


Rebuild it!!!

[GMCPaul]

That much end play will Definately damage the Transmission, I had one that broke 2 TH350 bellhousings almost completly off the transmissions in a 3 week period and that motor when we checked the end play had less than 1/2 what you have currently, save money by not replacing a tranny every few weeks and take care of the bottom end.
GMCPaul

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by wolfthing2000

Okay. Let's think about that end playn number one more time okay??? A 1/16 of an inch is like way over .060 and that is almost 10xs that is Ten times !!!!!!! the limit. What or why or how come or what if or whatever is letting this be is MAJOR concern. Period!
Pull it !!!!


Rebuild it!!!

Ok lets think about that endplay thing . 1/4 " = .250 1/8 " = .125
and 1/16"=.0625
I still wouldn't pull an engine that hadn't given me any problems. Besides we don't know for sure that he has that much endplay.

[Greubin]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Ok lets think about that endplay thing . 1/4 " = .250 1/8 " = .125
and 1/16"=.0625
I still wouldn't pull an engine that hadn't given me any problems. Besides we don't know for sure that he has that much endplay.

I'm pretty sure, I measured the crank endplay it's right at .125" give or take. The tranny did make a clunking sound during stop and go's before I pulled it. I'm not going to throw away the $1700 I spent on a new 700r4 install to tired bottom end.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Greubin

I'm pretty sure, I measured the crank endplay it's right at .125" give or take. The tranny did make a clunking sound during stop and go's before I pulled it. I'm not going to throw away the $1700 I spent on a new 700r4 install to tired bottom end.

Well I don't blame you for that and I certainly would agree that .0625 is a lot of endplay. When you get the engine out and torn down check the clearance between the rear main cap and the crank to see what the actual endplay is.
BTW are you familiar with setting up a 700r4 as far as the tv cable and the line pressures? You can damage that tranny far easier that way if they aren't set up correctly. There is tons of information in the boards so good luck and enjoy your ride. VV

[Greubin]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Well I don't blame you for that and I certainly would agree that .0625 is a lot of endplay. When you get the engine out and torn down check the clearance between the rear main cap and the crank to see what the actual endplay is.
BTW are you familiar with setting up a 700r4 as far as the tv cable and the line pressures? You can damage that tranny far easier that way if they aren't set up correctly. There is tons of information in the boards so good luck and enjoy your ride. VV

Ya, I've read the horror stories. I bought mine from Bowtie Transmissions and they were very adamant about how to set it up correctly. I'm defintely going to take my time and double check the trans setup.

Thanks for all the replies

[LONGHAIR]

Aside from the fact that movement of 1/16"-1/8" should give you leaking problems from both ends..........all of the metal that has worn off of either the bearings or the crank has to have gone somewhere.
I would rebuild it, paying extra attention to anything that you intend to reuse. Things like rocker arms/balls, distributor shaft, etc. can re-contaminate your rebuild.

[Greubin]

The machine shop tore the engine down last week. The crank rear main was all jacked up, needs a thrust weld ( I exchanged for good crank ). Engine was definitely tired, looking forward to starting the engine / tranny install this weekend.

[cowboy33713]

Howdy:
Happiness is not having to worry about when your truck would strand you!
Please update us on your build!
cowboy33713

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Greubin

The machine shop tore the engine down last week. The crank rear main was all jacked up, needs a thrust weld ( I exchanged for good crank ). Engine was definitely tired, looking forward to starting the engine / tranny install this weekend.

Is this the engine out of your truck originally? That's typical of an engine that came out of a standard transmission application. Folks set with the clutch held down a lot and it knocks the thrust out on the engine.