Pics for Txfirefighter

[5150]

I don't know if you can see everything if not let me know. I've got everything done except this, well and the TV Cable which is going to be another nightmare.

[5150]

ttt

[Tx Firefighter]

The one with the red connector looks to have two wires going to it right?

That's the 4th gear pressure switch then.

The yellow wiring loom, does it run toward the converter solenoid? I can't tell what's on the other end of it.

[5150]

Yes, the one with the red wire looms on it has two stubs on it.

TWO wires go along the yellow plastic wire guare over to another thing. I believe that is the solenoid. There are no other wires besides what you see here.

Here's another pic of the other side of the pan

I'm almost done.

Sorry for the crappy pic, I hope you can still make it out

[Tx Firefighter]

Disregard my previous PM...I think. I'm foggy, haven't done it in a few years. I'm researching it now to try and brush up.

I think you'll need to run 12 volts to the solenoid, then the other solenoid wire should go to the 1 wire switch.

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, I looked it up.

Run 12 volts to one of the two wires on the lockup solenoid. Now, run the other wire from the solenoid to the pressure switch with one terminal.

You're done now.

When the trans hits 4th gear, it will make ground and connect the 12 volts through the lockup solenoid to ground. This will energize the solenoid when the trans is in 4th gear.

[5150]

Does it matter which of the TWO wires on the solenoid I hook up to 12v or to the one terminal?

And do I leave the switch with TWO teminals unplugged?

Would you suggest running the a wire from the solenoid to the 4-pin plug and then from the outside the tranny to the 12V source?

[Tx Firefighter]

It shouldn't matter which of the two wires you connect to 12v and which goes to the grounding switch.

Use the little squarish 4 terminal connector near the shift shaft to pass 12 volt source inside the case.

[5150]

Do I leave the other pressure switches unplugged? in other words gut the wiring all together?

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, other than the two wires mentioned above, there will be no wiring left inside the trans. The other switch remains unplugged.

[5150]

Cool, so the one with two terminal stays bare!

Awesome, I'll get right on it.

[Tx Firefighter]

It's been so long since I did this, I went and did a google on the subject. found a good article written by a board member on here, Ervin.

[5150]

I know I keep bothering you about this, but I just got underneath there and was pulling wires off and noticed that on the solenoid that is says

RED + BLK -


So I'm assuming that it does matter which wire goes to the 12v and which one to the ONE terminal switch.

[ClemsonChevy]

For those of us reading this who have no idea whats going on, could you briefly fill us in or link to a post that does? Lol. Looks like a 700r4, but other than that, I have no idea.

[5150]

Tx Firefighter is helping me wire up the overdrive on my 700r4 WITHOUT paying for the $150 kit from Summit or Jegs. He's helping me do it another way that gets the same results, but without the empty pocket.

[GlennBrittain]

I used Bow Tie Overdrives TV made easy kit, was the easy way out. There are alternatives on the TV cable set up. Try this site for more info http://iotech.no/corvette/technical/700r4/ .

[Russell]

I just went through this with my 77:

You want 12 volts coming in through the connector on the casing of the transmission, then going to the red wire (+) wire on the coil, then the black wire runs to one post on the silver pressure switch, and the other wire runs to a good ground source on the transmission.

Between the 12 volt fuse and tranny connector, you should have a brake switch that opens the connection when the pedal is pushed down, and a vaccum switch that will cause the transmission to come out of lockup under heavy load (useful if you're going up a hill, and the engine starts lugging down a bunch). The vaccum switch is optional however, I know of one or two guys who don't run them, but they have very powerful engines that don't get lugged down very easily. You can get all of this wiring in a form that literally bolts straight in from an 83ish + truck. It will have the vac switch, brake switch, a connector to plug into the fuse box, and all of the wiring needed from the fusebox all the way to the transmission. Just need to switch brake switches out, and run a vaccum line from your intake to the vac switch

That other pressure switch is used to lock the converter in 3rd gear as well, but myself, and a few others believe that is one of the reasons why the earlier transmissions were more prone to failure. If the converter is constantly locking and unlocking, it causes a lot of heat, which is what kills transmissions.

To test and make sure its working, go for a drive, get it going 45 mph, and let it drop into overdrive + lock the converter up, then lightly put your foot on the brake enough to light the brake lights up. The transmission should unlock the converter, and your RPMs should increase. If you are kinda lugging it right as it goes into OD, you should be able to notice a fair increase in RPMs.

[5150]

You want 12 volts coming in through the connector on the casing of the transmission, then going to the red wire (+) wire on the coil, then the black wire runs to one post on the silver pressure switch, and the other wire runs to a good ground source on the transmission.

Between the 12 volt fuse and tranny connector, you should have a brake switch that opens the connection when the pedal is pushed down, and a vaccum switch that will cause the transmission to come out of lockup under heavy load (useful if you're going up a hill, and the engine starts lugging down a bunch). The vaccum switch is optional however, I know of one or two guys who don't run them, but they have very powerful engines that don't get lugged down very easily. You can get all of this wiring in a form that literally bolts straight in from an 83ish + truck. It will have the vac switch, brake switch, a connector to plug into the fuse box, and all of the wiring needed from the fusebox all the way to the transmission. Just need to switch brake switches out, and run a vaccum line from your intake to the vac switch

That other pressure switch is used to lock the converter in 3rd gear as well, but myself, and a few others believe that is one of the reasons why the earlier transmissions were more prone to failure. If the converter is constantly locking and unlocking, it causes a lot of heat, which is what kills transmissions.

To test and make sure its working, go for a drive, get it going 45 mph, and let it drop into overdrive + lock the converter up, then lightly put your foot on the brake enough to light the brake lights up. The transmission should unlock the converter, and your RPMs should increase. If you are kinda lugging it right as it goes into OD, you should be able to notice a fair increase in RPMs.

Wow, just when I wasn't confused. I have it run like Tx firefighter says. I have two wires the red one off the solenoid is going to the connector where I ran a 12V to. The black wire off the solenoid is going to the pressure switch that has one peg on it. That's the only wiring I have.

I have 4.10 gears so I know that will help.

Hope that's enough!

[Russell]

Ah, that will work as well -- It all depends on the type of pressure switch you have. Yours grounds itself through the valve body, while mine needs a wire run to the switch to provide ground to the switch itself