Rear window issues

[79BIG10]

I've been working on the Blazer and ran into a big issue. The rear window lock does not fit the keys I have for it. The rear window won't roll up so I know I have to fix that but even with by passing the window switch at the dash it still won't roll up. If I press down you can hear the motor engage and power. I'm getting power to the switch itself at the dash. I'm guessing I'm got a bad short somewhere between the switch and the window itself. But how do I change the lock in back out?

[special-K]

Pull the inner panel off of the tailgate to get access.With the gate down,hold or jump the latch-switch.This will allow the window to operate with gate open,while you observe,and takes tension off the glass.Mine wouldn`t open or close all the way,even after replacing swtches and cleaning/dielectric greasing the contacts.The felt on my tracks was shot and the metal was crusty.Too much resistance to let it slide freely while the gatr was up and the glass has to glide inward toward the interior as it raises.

[mg83]

I did this repair about a month ago. I ordered a new lock from cheyenne pickup parts. I think it came with two new keys. When you open up the tailgate, you will need to roll out the window while the tailgate is down. Support the glass with a couple of sawhorses. I think there are three bolts that hold the mechanism in place. The lock is under there. It took me about two hours to do the repairs. It looked alot harder than it was.

[79BIG10]

Thanks for the info. I'll be working in this later this week and will try to jump the latch swtich. I'll also be ordering a new lock for the rear window to make it work.

[Zoomad75]

What special-k mentioned is what I think the killer of K5/suburban rear window regulators. People complain about the cables breaking on the power units, but they wouldn't break if the rollers and slide tracks weren't wiped out. Same thing goes for the manual cranks too. The pot-metal crank arm snaps when someone tugs with all there might to raise or lower a window that is stuck on the tracks.

Mine is a manual setup, but wouldn't close the last two inches to the top at all when I got it. I got another regulator out of the boneyard and got new rollers/rivits from the Chevy dealer (they still have them, just search for a 91 k5, power/manual are the same). sorry I don't have the part #'s.

Still, my rollers were shot. They were ground flat on one edge just like a "D" shape. The rollers had worn flat over time due to the rust buildup on the bottom edge of the tracks (1 per side). The K5 tailgate isn't known for being watertight and moisture can get to the tracks and settle in the bottom of them. The rust buildup makes for a rough surface to run over and eventually the nylon rollers just wear down. Once worn they stop rolling but try to slide over the crustyness sometime getting stuck altogether.

Once I put the new rollers on my freshly greased boneyard regulator I cleaned the tracks out with a wire wheel on my drill and greased the snot out of them. I did that over a year ago and I can still crank the window down and up with minimal effort.

Get the rollers/rivits and grease those slide tracks!

[Zoomad75]

Oh and to any that remove a tailgate regulator, be very careful around them. The big clock spring that is on there carrys a lot a force, if your finger is between the regulator gears when it lets go you will get hurt. Like only being able to count to 4 on one hand kind of hurt....I was cranking my old regulator up and down once I got it out to only have it let go with it in my hands. Thankfully I was holding onto the arm- away from the gears when it happened. But when it did let go it did so with impressive force and it forced the gears to move without turning the crank. It did so in a split second.

Be Very carful when the regulator is out. You have to remove it to replace the rollers.