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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 291
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Hello there everyone. I have a 1970 VW bug that is absolutely driving me crazy. I had the stock motor re-built and that lasted 2 years when it broke a valve. I just paid to have that motor (top end) re-built and of course after starting it up something in the bottom end was bad. I thought ok I will buy a brand new motor and should be problem free for years.... well I'm almost out of cash and the car is still not 100%. The current motor is a 1776 dual port motor so it is quite a bit larger than the stock one. Well the generator was whining and eventually freezed up. No problem I'll throw in a new generator... well now the new one gets so damn hot you can't even touch it. The voltage regulator also gets extremely hot as well. The charging system is charging at 13 volts at idle and increases with speed (that is how it has been for years). I am at a loss of what to do now so if anyone it smart in the VW area I would more than gladly appreciate the help.... Thanks a lot Cliff
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#2 |
Used to have a truck
Join Date: May 2002
Location: port orchard WA
Posts: 1,552
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Ive owned a bunch of them and had all the typical generator and voltage regulator problems. If it were me I'd spend the hundred bucks on a new Bosch ALTERNATOR and eliminate the problem. Its probably your voltage regulator but you may have a bad cell in the battery thats putting too much of a load on the generator. Theyre not really stout units to begin with . Been through a bunch myself. The new Bosch alternators are Godsends.
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No truck :-( |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 291
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thanks a lot mike... but i just spent 100 on this generator and it should work without any problems I believe... Everything is fine and it is charging perfectly. The only problem is that it is getting way too hot Thanks though for the response
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fletcher,N.C U.S.A
Posts: 162
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we've had alot of vw's in the family and used to build them. They are air cooled and do get very hot.There's not much you can do about how hot they get as long as the engine is running good.
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#5 |
Used to have a truck
Join Date: May 2002
Location: port orchard WA
Posts: 1,552
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I dont know about that. If you use aftermarket "cool tin" and a different design of fan you can keep them reasonably cool.
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No truck :-( |
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#6 |
faster, faster, faster
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston ,Texas ,USA
Posts: 1,354
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Change the pulley size. You need to get the rpm's of the generator down. The 1776 revs alot higher than your stock 1300 did. Just change the pulleys out to lower the rpm's of your accessories and you'll be fine.
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I'm going to Law School, wanna debate? It's good practice. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,512
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Not to keep this OT post going but can anyone list websites such as ours for VW bettle/baja's, etc?
thanks.
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Bob |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 291
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thanks a lot everyone. problem is not solved yet though... I'm still working at it.. What is the problem with keeping this off topic post goin ? Thanks again Cliff
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1972 Custom deluxe 305/350 C/10 8-foot bed with 1/4 inch diamond plate steel bed floor. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
Posts: 1,525
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Are you sure you checked the connections on the regulator. I put a new one in my 72 fixed most electrical problems but after a week the wires worked there way loose. Light crimp on the spade connectors and everything works ok again. In the winter the new regulator stopped working again and a good rap with tire iron no problem. Remember its 32 years old and all the conections are oxidized coated. I would also check the grounds from the frame to the battery and the engine if you have resistance between the engine block and the battery ground it will cause the generator to put max current out all the time.
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72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,512
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Cliff;
I don't have a problem talking VW-eze. I have read rules, etc. for 67-72 chevy board and it allows an area for non-67-72 stuff on general discussion board. I have a place in my heart for VW's too and would like to get hooked up with a bunch of guys like we have here on 67-72 chevys only talking straight VW talk. As long as they don't move this one let the info. flow!!
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Bob |
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#11 |
aka Crusher, Crushergmc
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,834
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You shouldn't need to change the pulley. That's what a voltage regulator is for. As for the heat on the generator, yeah it will get hotter than you think but you should be able to put your hand on it for 5 or more seconds. Is the car running? If it runs but the voltage regulator and the generator get hot, and nothing else happens, maybe you should just drive it anyway.
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"KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious" |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
Posts: 1,525
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At idle you should read 12.6v, at highway no more than 14v, 13.6v is better if it goes higher you have a bad regulator. You will cook the battery and toast the generator to a crackly crunch. In the VW Bug world I would not exactly trust new parts because so many companies make refurb parts and quality control is not that good. My best advice is pickup Hot VW magazine and look for VW clubs in your area. Every area has a Bug GURU try to find him.
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72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne |
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