87 front wheel bearings

[Bob Gervais]

Posted this in the general truck section, but it got no replies, thought it may do better here:

OK, this is driving me nuttier than I was, which ain't a good thing!

Last summer, my right front wheel bearings started howling, so I replaced everything (inner and outer, cups and cones). I followed the procedure in Chilton's: torque to 70 ft-lbs. while turning the wheel, back of a half turn. Re-torque to 3x(?) lbs. while turning the wheel, and back off 3/8 of a turn. According to Chilton, this is where it should be set, however that felt a little loose. I adjusted it until it had a little more than .01" of movement on the dial indicator. I noticed that the spindle was worn a little, but just barely, and decided to take a chance with it. A couple of months later, the bearings started howling again. I parked the truck for other reasons, and just a couple of weeks ago installed a non-damaged spindle and new bearings. I figured the old spindle's wear caused the other bearings to fail. I reset the bearings according to Chilton's, and didn't use the dial indicator to check freeplay. I figured I may have tightened them too much, and that may also have caused failure.

Two weeks to the day, and the bearings are howling like crazy again. Before I replace them yet again, I need to find a better way to set these things. This has to be something I'm doing wrong, or something out of whack that I'm not seeing.

Any and all suggestions are welcome, anyone run into this problem before? How are the rest of you setting the front wheel bearings on a 4x4?

Thanks in advance!

[qksilver]

I see you replaced the bearings, have to ask, the races also?
I generally pack the heck out of the bearings with HI-temp grease, then instal the hub, packing more grease in, start turning the wheel as I snug up the nut .
It's done by feel but snug then back up to the next spot where the cotter pin can go in. The bearings are made to have a slight amount of play, what that translate to measurement wise I have no idea.
Not having the races square will do it too. From dirt or a small burr , if the races aren't seated right the bearings won't last.

[Bob Gervais]

I did the races also. Never a good idea to re-use races, especially since they're so cheap.

Packed the hell out of them, and put grease in the hub cavity too.

There was some free play, but your comment about properly seated races may be the problem. Perhaps I didn't clean things up well enough, and one of the races isn't seated properly. I was in a rush the last time I did it, so it is possible.

Looks like it's time for new bearings/races/seal, and cleaning the hell out of everything before installing. Or, maybe I'll just bite the bullet and have a machine shop press the races in.

Thanks for the reply!

[LONGHAIR]

Since this is in the 4X4 section, I'm going to assume that it is a 4X4....

If so, the most likely thing is that you don't have the nut/washer pack installed properly. The fact that you said that this is on the right side of the truck makes it even more likely. The inner nut will have a tendancy to tighten itself on the right side of the truck if the locking ring is not installed properly.

If this is a 4X4 and you need some help with re-doing this, just reply to this post and I can walk you thru it.

[Bob Gervais]

I probably should have mentioned what the heck truck this was. It's the one in my sig, an 87 Suburban 1/2 ton 4X4, stock axles.

Here's how the nut/washer arrangement is on both sides (checked just to be sure):

There's the inner nut, that contacts the bearing. That is the one the Chilton's says to torque, loosen, torque again, loosen. Then, there's a thin washer with a bunch of little holes in it, and a key. The washer slides over the spindle, into the keyway, and one of the holes on the washer mates up to a pin sticking out of the inner nut. Then, the locknut is installed, and torqued. Does this sound right?

Thanks for the help!

[HeavyK20]

That sounds right. I did mine exactly the same way. I also thought that backing the nut off 3/8 of a turn was a little excessive so I hand tightend the nut before installing the locknut.

I don't have mine in the truck yet so maybe it will howl too.

[qksilver]

I was drinking to much Pepsi I guess. Any excuse ?
Wasn't thinking 4X4 , I can explain................
!

[LONGHAIR]

Yes, that sounds right. The thing that you have to remember is that the outer nut pushes any thread clearance of the inner nut even tighter. So the "final" adjustment that you spend all of that effort trying to get exactly like the book says will get tighter when you are done. The looser the fit of the threads the more of this effect you get. You are generally better to be a bit loose than tight. So when you put it all together and the pin on the washer doesn't line up.....first try turning the washer over (the holes are off-set from the key) if that doesn't work loosen the nut slightly and try again.

It sounds to me like you have had it too tight in the past.

[john]

You have already been given good advice but I would like to add to feel the hubs for excess heat. If you dont have brake issues transferring heat the hubs should not get so hot they are uncomfortable to touch. also the temp should be the same for both sides.

[HeavyK20]

That is sound logic LONGHAIR. I'm going to readjust mine directly.

[Smallz72project]

Everyone has put in their two cents and is valid, but I thought I'd put my opinion in as well. I work at an alignment shop and pack the bearings on these style hubs usually once a day and have never had any come back with a complaint. One thing not mentioned, but not pertinant to the howling, is you want to put some fresh grease on the spindle bearings ( where the axle shaft rides). I have never torqued the nuts, I just do it all by feel. As others have said tighten the inner spindle nut down while turning the hub, I just tighten it until it pretty tight with a ratchet to really seat the bearings, back it off and then retighten hand tight (basically with tighten ratchet with one finger and when it stops, thats it), Install the washer, if it doesnt index just as LONGHAIR said, flip the washer and check if not, barely loosen the nut and recheck, flip, recheck and so on till it goes on. Then once that is complete I tighten the outer nut pretty tight with the ratchet. Just check the hub when you are done, make sure that there is no play without it being too tight, a good indication that it is too tight is if it hard to rotate the hub with one hand. Good luck and hopefully the only howling you'll hear is the wind going past your window. Keep truckin.
Todd

[Bob Gervais]

Excellent advice guys, and thanks! I've been out of town for a couple of weeks, so I haven't done anything with this yet, except for the "tear it down and leave it apart in the driveway" phase. The neighbors love it when I do that.

I did the entire front brake system last year (calipers, hoses, hard lines, pads, resurfaced rotors), but the rotors are looking a little beat. Rather than packing new bearings in the old rotors again, I think I'm going to get two new rotor/hub assy's, new bearings, races, and seals, and put the whole thing back together. Probably add some quality pads like Hawk's or Performance Friction's. I smoked out the current el cheapo front pads last year when towing, so it's probably a good idea anyway.

I'll update on the outcome, and whether or not the howling continues, just in case it'll help someone else.

Thanks again guys!