Cab corner fit problem. Anyone else?

[glock35ipsc]

I am on my third passenger cab corner, and still have a problem finding one that matches the curve of the door below the body line. The door, below the body line, has a slight curve/bow to it. All three cab corners I have bought are basically straight from the body line down to the bottom.

Is this normal? It almost looks like I will need to cut up the cab corner and spread it out to match the curve, or run a piece thruogh the english wheel to match the curve and weld it in..

BTW, I am also using an aftermarket (Goodmark) door. I'll try to post a pic later.

[glock35ipsc]

Here are a couple of pics:

[grayw0lf]

ttt. I'm very anxious to hear myself before I jump into mine.

[BigSky71]

You are dealing with the fit between two aftermarket parts which can be problematic. I would try modifying the cab corner from the inside with a body hammer, then add some reinforced filler to bring the corner the rest of the way out to match the door. Body pros may know another option...

[Rokcrln]

This is a normal thing! I would guess to say it is not the door because Goodmark has great doors from the window felt down and the window rail wil sometimes need a bit of work to get just right. The cab corner problem is normally fixed by first making sure your rocker lines up with the door bottom as this is one of two alignmet points. Then weld the top body line on the cab corner and now the fun part begains. You will take a large flat screw driver and pry the return lip( the part that wraps around the door opening) out slightly all the way down to the rocker. What you are doing is re-shaping the curv to fit your door. Once you get it to where you want it then you will need to work the lip back flat to the cab. This part can be tricky since it will want to pull the corner back in some so what you may need to do is over curv the edge and as you go to tack weld it in place you can push and work it in for a good fit. Sorry if it is a bit confusing but it is easier to do than explain. Good luck.

Also try curving the corner a bit before you start welding it in place but the above trick will still be needed for a good fit.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[shaneschevys]

Did you use a cheap after mkt cab corner or a GM cab corner? I have heard that the cheapies do not fit all that good. I have not dealt with this my self but have seen a few trucks with cheap ones installed.

[glock35ipsc]

All of the sheet metal on this truck except for the cab, cowl, and grill are from Goodmark.

Rokcrln: Thanks, that's the info I needed! That sounds like something I can handle.

Also, I got the plans the other day for the Tip & Flip cab dolly. They are top-notch!

Thanks again!

[glock35ipsc]

Hey Kevin,

I had a thought..... could I snip that edge every 1/4" or 1/2" before welding in place, rather than pry it out after welding? I don't know if the lines below make any sense, but splitting every little bit so that the outer part that needs reshaped is now flexable since the lip/edge as free'd up? I wish I hadn't sold my shrinker/stretcher, then I could just shrink that lip a little.......

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[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by shaneschevys

Did you use a cheap after mkt cab corner or a GM cab corner? I have heard that the cheapies do not fit all that good. I have not dealt with this my self but have seen a few trucks with cheap ones installed.

I have been checking into becomming a Goodmark Dist. and in my research I have found that almost all after market metal for your trucks come from the same place overseas with very few exceptions. As far as what youhave seen as "cheap ones installed" is more probley just a cheap install. I have gotten parts with the same label that fit differently but thay all finish out the same when installed right.

glock35ipsc~ Glad you liked the plans!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I have been checking into becomming a Goodmark Dist. and in my research I have found that almost all after market metal for your trucks come from the same place overseas with very few exceptions.

The way I understand it is that Goodmark is very picky about which parts they will accept and which parts they reject due to quality, fit, etc....

[70STOVEBOLT]

You can still buy these from GM?!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

The way I understand it is that Goodmark is very picky about which parts they will accept and which parts they reject due to quality, fit, etc....

This is true and they have two cabs in their shop that they paid close to 10K each for that are flawless that they uded for molds and fitment. Both were factory unmolested cabs and doors but get this one set of doors would not fit the other cab 100% right around the window rails! I have found this to be true as wel but thought it was just me

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[pound41]

You can cut small pie shaped pieces out of the lip. This will make it easier to dolly as you go to get the doorline shape you want. Then weld the gaps between the pie cuts grind down and sand. I have used this technique to remake a piece that goes to the blazer rockerboxes that is not being repo. It has several different flexes and turn. This work well on alot of shaping
Good Luck

[glock35ipsc]

That's what I was thinking of, but I didn't take into account that a simple slit would overlap some when reshaped. Small pie cuts.... got it.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

That's what I was thinking of, but I didn't take into account that a simple slit would overlap some when reshaped. Small pie cuts.... got it.

If you use a cut off wheel for your slit then it would be fine as you will not get alot of movement at one location. You need to spread your slits out over the entire edge otherwise you will get kinks in your finished panel. But putting a slit will make it much easier. But if you have a shrinker/streacher it is better yet!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

But if you have a shrinker/streacher it is better yet!

Not long ago I built a 24" english wheel, and then bought a shrinker/stretcher from Eastwood. Used them for what I needed, then wound up selling them to my cousin's boss. I made good $$$ off that wheel! But I wish I had not sold the shrinker/stretcher set. Guess I wasn't quite done with them yet. Maybe he'll let me borrow them for awhile.......

[68C15]

THREAD JACK!!!!
what's this about cab dolly plans?
and I have to agree, the cut-off wheel would make wider slits allowing movement without lapping over.


Goodmark has cabs for tooling up better parts? or do they use them for guaging each part's quality and fitment?

my factory doors dont line up right with the drip rails. appearantly GM was a little lax on fit and finish.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Something I was thinking about after I read this.... would it help to slip the new corner over the existing corner while it's still on the truck and tap the edge into shape using a body hammer? I know that wouldn't apply in this case because it's already installed. You won't get the final shape, but it should be closer than what's pictured above?

[mocwon]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

As far as what youhave seen as "cheap ones installed" is more probley just a cheap install. I have gotten parts with the same label that fit differently but thay all finish out the same when installed right.

glock35ipsc~ Glad you liked the plans!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here, here... you are absolutely right about that. It's been said time and time again but a person skilled at body repair and fabrication can make just about anything fit correctly. Kind'a like making a silk purse out of a pig's ear...

[Bob D]

I'm glad I caught this thread, I have corners/rockers/floor to do on both sides of my cab. So, it would be a very good idea to reinstall the doors while doing this work to guarantee a proper fit of patch panels?

Bob

[49studebaker]

Yup, definitely put the door on. Makes a great guide. It would really blow to get the rockers and corners in only to find the door no longer fit the hole. Do yourself a favor and take the striker plate off though. No use fighting the door as it hangs up when your only checking body lines. It's a good idea to replace the hinges in your door beforehand also.

[russellmarling]

My truck does this on the passenger side with the factory door, cab corner, and rocker. Is there any kind of simple fix for this? I'm not skilled enough to do the stuff that Rockcrln described and I'm not replacing the factory corners or rockers anyway because they're solid. Any suggestions?

[Bob D]

Originally Posted by 49studebaker

Yup, definitely put the door on. Makes a great guide. It would really blow to get the rockers and corners in only to find the door no longer fit the hole. Do yourself a favor and take the striker plate off though. No use fighting the door as it hangs up when your only checking body lines. It's a good idea to replace the hinges in your door beforehand also.

Thanks, I'm glad I found this out before and not after. The cab and doors are both already stripped to the shells. The hinges have already been rebuilt with new pins and bushings.

Bob

[glock35ipsc]

Well, thanks to Kevin's suggestion, I got the cab corner to match the curve of the door very nicely. I cut slits about every inch or so, and it turned out real good with no kinks between the slits. Thanks!!!!

I also "borrowed" your trick with the TIG rod to clean up the gaps (bottom pic). Only in this case, the door was straight, but the cab corner was off. So I used the TIG wire on the cab corner (3 pieces at the bottom!)and filled it in on the back side with some 18ga cut to fit. It looks right, so I don't think anyone will ever notice.

[hambone1958]

I had the same problem on the passenger side of my truck and it WAS the door the old door fit perfect the new door fit like yours. I just got a different door and got one that fit.