carrier bearings

[truckdude239]

okay does any one make a good soild carrier bearing? when i replaced my transmission in octocber i replaced the u joints and carrier bearing well when i was under the truck today i noticed it starting to break this one i got from orielys it has life time free replace ment but i dont want to keep replacing them? any ideas?

[jsbgump]

If yours is the teardrop style good luck i finally got tired of snapping them and put a one piece drive shaft in my 68 short fleet

[farside847]

I saw one once on here for like $400 that was supposed to be the end-all thing. Too much money for me...

[neonlarry]

This is what I use:
http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by jsbgump

If yours is the teardrop style good luck i finally got tired of snapping them and put a one piece drive shaft in my 68 short fleet

That's one way to avoid fixing the real problem.

[truckdude239]

it looks liike this lastone that was on it looked it it only alot older

[kelsfine69]

Originally Posted by neonlarry

This is what I use:
http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html

Oh man I gotta get one of those. That is sweet

[Jemost 72]

It appears the replacement carrier bearings for these trucks are junk. When I replaced mine, I bought it from NAPA, thinking they would have the best. As I installed it, I was tightening the last nut on the rear u-joint...and the carrier bearing just fell down. Upon inspection, it appeared the spot welds were so small it just broke loose. Put a good weld on it and re-installed it, its held strong ever since.

[4x4Poet]

I've just begun getting into my C10 burb. I think the problem with center support bearings wearing out at the rubber surround has more to do with the lack of a slip joint in the rear half of the two-piece driveshaft. When the suspension cycles up and down, the rubber surround has to flex to allow the entire driveshaft to move fore and aft with the movement allowed at the splined yoke in the transmission. I guess I'm only speaking of a two-piece driveshaft behind a TH350 in a half ton truck with a 12-bolt.

Even Inland Empire Driveline Service recommends a twopiece, splined rear half driveshaft. In fact, I'm pretty sure that the poly carrier bearings won't flex as much as rubber ones, so the suspension cycling may stress the poly or the bracket surrounding the poly. Something has to absorb or allow a two-piece driveshaft with no slip joint aft of the carrier bearing to move fore and aft under suspension cycling.

At the bottom of this iedls page, they recommend a two-piece slip jointed DS when using their 7075 poly bearing. There's a lack of clarity in the wording of that paragraph. I need to call them, myself.

[72armyswbtruck]

I agree, I need to give these guys a call and check on pricing. I need to replace my carrier and u-joints.

[truckdude239]

do you think it would help to have my driveshaft rebalanced?

[JustLiveIt]

Had my drive shaft rebalanced and a new carrier bearing pressed on. Will update progress after I install it.

Jemost 72: My old carrier bearing failed at the spot welds too. The new one is spot welded but also is welded all around the mouting plate too. Hopefully that works. If not I'll go with a one piece from Inland Empire since they are a short drive from me.

[truckdude239]

mine is breaking around the bolt holes on top

[Ackattack]

I used to have problems with mine. The Bracket that the carrier bearing bolted to broke and was bent. Might want to inspect that.

I made a new bracket out of some square tubing and haven't had problems since.

[4x4Poet]

I'm looking into having my local driveshaft shop add a slip yoke to the rear half of my two-piece carrier bearing driveshaft. Should be cheaper than a whole new driveshaft like IEDLS sells. I might still go poly carrier bearing for an install and forget combo.


Also, it probably doesn't help that some of us run sagging springs with cheap, worn out shocks. That must increase driveshaft fore and aft movement at the transmission end splined yoke and therefore the carrier bearing also.

<-------one of the *some*

[JustLiveIt]

Originally Posted by JustLiveIt

Had my drive shaft rebalanced and a new carrier bearing pressed on. Will update progress after I install it.

Jemost 72: My old carrier bearing failed at the spot welds too. The new one is spot welded but also is welded all around the mouting plate too. Hopefully that works. If not I'll go with a one piece from Inland Empire since they are a short drive from me.

Got the shaft in and everything works well. Don't know how long it will all last but we'll see. If it breaks again I'm going 1 piece shaft with the ECE extreme drop cross member. I think my angles are less than ideal with the 6" drop, 2 piece shaft, and stock cross member.

[neonlarry]

One thing to note with any drop of 4" or more the rearend will need to be recentered (as in an adjustable panhard bar).

[JustLiveIt]

Originally Posted by neonlarry

One thing to note with any drop of 4" or more the rearend will need to be recentered (as in an adjustable panhard bar).

I have the super track bar from ECE. The PO was using the stock track bar with the 6" drop for an unknown amount of miles. That may be what killed my previous bearing. I centered the rear as best I could when I installed the super track bar but I need to get it to an alignment shop for a 4 wheel alignment.