What's in the drip rail?

[rchdrm]

Almost time to paint the cab and was wondering what is the material that is filled into the drip edge and what do I need to do before I paint?
Remove the old?
Fill new over the cracked and chipped?
Where and what do I buy?
Thanks for the help.

[ChevyCrazy67]

unless its been modified it is seam sealer. you can get it at most auto parts stores or from automotive paint store. If its not showing signs of leaking I'd just clean it up good and go over it with a little fresh sealer.

I had to take most of my old out and replace with new sealer. helpful hint, when you put the new on instead of wetting your finger in water to smooth it out use a little laquer thinner or reducer on a rag. smooths out much nicer.

[ChevyCrazy67]

just noticed you said some was cracked and chipped, be sure to get all that out it will leak there take it back to the good feather the edges back and fill in with new. 3m is what i've always used come in a tube just like caulk and works with a regular caulking gun. be sure to let it dry good before priming or painting over.

[72CSTC5]

Be careful of the old fast and firm 3m seam sealer. That is what was originally used and is old technology. 3M has a new product out that is very plialbe almost like rubber. Be careful using lacquer and such too for it to flow. Just use your finger and then clean up afterwards. I would definitely clean up all of the old caulk to make sure there is not rust under there. Clean up with wire wheel and then apply some self-etching spray primer that you can get from paint store as well. Lightly sand and then apply some regular primer over that and then seam seal. The reason you do not want to seam seal of the self etch primer is that is has "acids" in them and will eat away at the seam sealer. Good luck with your project.

[special-K]

Only use the newer pliable sealer if you are painting the truck in urethane.Urethane is the latest technology that is compatible because it has flex characteristics.The old tech original-type is fine also.It lasts 20-30 years or more and that`s outside.As usual,the new stuff is supposed to last longer,but we don`t know that,yet.

[AusMarty]

Down here we use Sikaflex, Sticks like nothing else i've ever used, check out the link

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-transoem-sealing

[Hart_Rod]

Here's a couple of links:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=167024

[speedracer]

anyone try por-15 seam sealer?

[john]

Here are alot of 3M seam sealers. I would use a rust neutralizer like rust mort first and clean with wire wheel before applying. Make sure and use a paintable sealer.

http://www.autopaintersupply.com/Mer...egory_Code=3BS

[Zonaman]

I tried the Por-15 with less than satisfactory results. Seems like that stuff doesn't like to pile on thick- like you'd do in a drip rail. I was tunred on to 3M 8307 (see this thread) and the stuff worked really good! Only catch is the special applicator can be a bit tough to find /expensive. But the results are fantastic!

[67ChevyRedneck]

With all that's been said I would like to add that I would recommend you completely strip out all of the old stuff. I can almost guarantee that water HAS gotten down into the cracks and has sat between the paint and sealer and it has nowhere to go from there and takes forever to evaporate out. You may find a good bit of surface rust (hopefully that's all it will be) under the old sealer. I would remove it ALL and put a good rust treatment under where the new sealer will go.