What'cha think Cal?

[Jebb1978]

Hey Cali, can you give me your opinion on this here? What else will I need besides lines and the Proportioning valve? They also offer a TCI unit for about $100 more. It looks like a great value to me but I don't trust myself to make the final decsion without getting your input.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-...mZ110012241659

Here is the TCI unit. Is it better?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-...mZ110012276360

[1957Burban]

The 2nd one looks to be built stronger. IMO spending the extra hundred, would be the wiser choice when it comes to your brakes.

[CAL 58 GMC]

That's the same seller I bought mine from. The second one was the one I bought. I wanted to mount it to the frame and keep the firewall clean. The booster bracket mount to the frame in it's original place and bolts right in with only one hole to drill and that's because the new unit has three holes instead of just two. You will want to also use the residual pressure valve to keep the fluid from backing back into the master cylinder. And a proportioning valve for either a Disc/Drum or Disc/Disc depending on what brake set up you’re going to run. Here a link from the same seller for the proportioning and residual valve. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPL...temZ8073820775 And last, your going to have to make your brake line. The lines are not that hard to do, it just takes a lot of time.

[Jebb1978]

If it's good enough for you it's good enough for me!
Thanks Bud!
Shawn
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110012276360

[entourageguy]

do you still need the residual pressure valve for the rear drums when you are running a proportioning/combination valve for disc/drums. I thought that the proportioning/combination valve did both?
Brian

after reading the e-bay spot it says that with the master cylinder as low as the brakes you should run the pressure valves.



then I found this at another spot about the job of the proportioning valves

This valve decreases the pressure to the rear, preventing lock up. Metering: Metering is used in the front disk brake portion in the disc/drum system to delay application of the front discs allowing the slower reacting drum brakes to catch up. This provides rear stability on wet surfaces and helps prevent front pad wear. There is no metering function with the disc/disc setup. Residual Pressure: Drum Brakes require residual pressure of 10 lbs. to be held in the line. This pressure keeps the brake shoes close to the drums giving you a more firm pedal feel. The disc/disc setup does not require this pressure.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Originally Posted by entourageguy

do you still need the residual pressure valve for the rear drums when you are running a proportioning/combination valve for disc/drums. I thought that the proportioning/combination valve did both? after reading the e-bay spot it says that with the master cylinder as low as the brakes you should run the pressure valves.

After researching this from some other sources I found when running a master at or below the braking system a residual pressure valve is needed. American Street Rod's web site states:http://www.amstreetrod.com/WIL2601874.php4 "The two pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration, thereby causing excessive caliper piston retraction and a longer brake pedal stroke. The minimal two pound residual pressure prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag." and Sumitt Racing's site said: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku"Ideal for drag racing, Street Rods, and many off-road applications, these inline residual pressure valves from Wilwood retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel. These 2 lb. valves are used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers, and fluid drainback occurs, causing excessive brake drag. With drum brakes, 10 lb. valves are used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums." So I bought them.

[Jebb1978]

Originally Posted by entourageguy

after reading the e-bay spot it says that with the master cylinder as low as the brakes you should run the pressure valves.

That sounds right to me, I have been doing some reading this morning after reading your post. It makes sence to me that if gravity is working against you, you would need to do something different.

[entourageguy]

I'm beginning to see the problem with my brakes. They were done when I bought the truck and have the same set up (under the cab) but the only thing the PO put in was an adjustable valve for the rear brakes. My next project is the revamping of the brakes with a proportioning valve and the residual valves for the disc and drums.
Brian

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by entourageguy

I'm beginning to see the problem with my brakes. They were done when I bought the truck and have the same set up (under the cab) but the only thing the PO put in was an adjustable valve for the rear brakes. My next project is the revamping of the brakes with a proportioning valve and the residual valves for the disc and drums.
Brian

You will need a 2 lb in front and a 10 lb in back. if your adjustable proportioning valve is working there isn't a lot of advantage to going with a fixed rate one.

[b.sharp]

Hey guys,

This is a very interesting thread. I was looking at the same stock location set up and wandered if that was all I needed. But after reading your posts I realize I'm going to have to go to the same setup as you all did. I really don't want to look at an ugly brake booster hanging on my firewall.

I posted some pics of my truck when I first entered this site a month ago, but for some reason the thread has disappeared. Does anyone know what happens to old threads. I'd like to add some deconstruction pics but can't seam to find the og thread.

Anyways ,this site is exceptional for knowledge and experience. I really like seeing everyone projects. It apears there are some on here with lots of money and hard labor put in them. I know mine has been more hard labor than money so far.

Keep all the good info coming and the great pics.

Latr,
B.Sharp

[CAL 58 GMC]

Originally Posted by b.sharp

Hey guys,
I posted some pics of my truck when I first entered this site a month ago, but for some reason the thread has disappeared. Does anyone know what happens to old threads. I'd like to add some deconstruction pics but can't seam to find the og thread.
Latr,
B.Sharp

Click on this link for your thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=199896 I look foward to some progress pics!

[Jebb1978]

You can also click on your own profile and search through all threads started by you. That is how I find ones that I loose.

For an update on the brakes, I bought the TCI unit you have Cali, I also bought his residule valves but I passed on the proportioning valve as it was really pricey.... I know I can pick one up for less than $65 plus $10 to ship? They don't weigh much???? As soon as I yank that motor and get my cab dolly built, I am on to making the brakes work again. Wish me luck! I am sure to have lots of questions for you and dwcsr. Please be patient with me...

[b.sharp]

Thanks for the help guys. I put a couple of new pics up. I hope the thread can now be seen in the list. If not I'll try to start another one.

Another question. I see you guys have pics of your truck atached to your signature. I can't seem to find the spot to attach a pic of my truck. Can someone let me know how to do this?
Thanks for the assistance.

Latr,
B.Sharp

[Jebb1978]

Originally Posted by b.sharp

Another question. I see you guys have pics of your truck atached to your signature. I can't seem to find the spot to attach a pic of my truck. Can someone let me know how to do this?
Thanks for the assistance.

Latr,
B.Sharp

That picture is listed under "avatar" you can load your pic for that the same way you load the others. Go under user CP and edit your avatar. If you have any problems just let us know.
Good luck!

[CAL 58 GMC]

Originally Posted by Jebb1978

I passed on the proportioning valve as it was really pricey.... I know I can pick one up for less than $65 plus $10 to ship? They don't weigh much???? As soon as I yank that motor and get my cab dolly built, I am on to making the brakes work again. Wish me luck! I am sure to have lots of questions for you and dwcsr. Please be patient with me...

I wasn’t going to buy a new one at first, so I searched the wreaking yards hoping to find one at the local pic-n-pull. Damn, if those thing are a lot harder to find the I thought it would be! I ended up buying the new valve after all. If you’re going to have rear disc I got another great deal for you!

[Jebb1978]

Originally Posted by CAL 58 GMC

I wasn’t going to buy a new one at first, so I searched the wreaking yards hoping to find one at the local pic-n-pull. Damn, if those thing are a lot harder to find the I thought it would be! I ended up buying the new valve after all. If you’re going to have rear disc I got another great deal for you!

I wish I was, I am not able to be that cool just yet. Did you buy your new one from Fatrodder?

[CAL 58 GMC]

Originally Posted by Jebb1978

I wish I was, I am not able to be that cool just yet. Did you buy your new one from Fatrodder?

I ended up with two proportioning valve that's why I asked. I did get mine from Fatrodder. I bought several other items from them and never had any problems.

[Jebb1978]

Thanks as always for the input old friend.

[CAL 58 GMC]

No problem!

[entourageguy]

You guys luck out as fatrodder will not ship up north. Another place wanted $34 shipping and handling for 2 residual valves and a 24" rad over flow. Add the exchange rate/duty/customs charges and the price does not look as good!!
Brian

ps anyone live close to the border (Buffalo or Niagra Falls) That I could ship stuff to them then drive across to pick up??

[Jebb1978]

You could have him ship to me and I could ship to you? It would be more expensive for you... Maybe you should just call them and ask if they are willing to work it out with you? They may just go for it.

[dwcsr]

most packages that ship noth now require a freight broker be involved. The broker is supposed to verifythe shipment and make needed customs docs. it adds a fee to the shipping cost.

[entourageguy]

UPS usually charges $30-$40 for customs paper work where as postal is $5. People use UPS once and learn the hard way. Postal sems to be the way to go. I'm checking into getting some stuff shipped to my wifes cousins in Rochester NY and then go for a drive (About 3 hrs) to pick it up. Only thing now is the gas costs which puts an increase on everything.
Brian

[dwcsr]

I was just thinking that there was a way to get shipping at a cheaper rate. I remember that USPS is the cheaper rate because they do there own customs work. You may want to look into having it shipped to a mailbox/shipping stores just across the border and pic it up there.

[b.sharp]

Jebb,

Thanks for the info on getting the picture in my used id. It's coming up now. I'm glad it's so easy to get awsers on this site. I've been to other sites that it seams like their gost sites with no one there. This is great for info and ideas. It seams like there are a great groop of prople with a vast range of knowledge on this board. Thanks for all the help.

Latr,

B.Sharp