Removing stuff to paint

[Gary]

Having some troubles removing a few things and before I started breaking stuff figured I'd ask here.

The dash gauges, how to unhook the wires in the back? I fiddled and got the speedo unhooked but the tach/oil psi/etc I need to unhook too and "fiddling" didn't get it so I need specific help on those.

The grill? Where are all the bolts to get it off? Don't wanna bend it

Ditto bumper (think I have that one figured but wanted to ask if there were any gotchas).

[ChevyCrazy67]

The grill should have a couple of bolts on each side 1 top and 1 bottom that bolt through the side into the fender. then a couple (might be 4 can't remember) in the middle where the hood latch is top and bottom bolted through the core support.

For the bumper if it hasn't been banged up and rusted bolts you should be able to take the one's you see from the front out and you'll have it. I had to heat mine to get them loose.

As for the gauges better let someone else answer that one I haven't got that far yet myself.

[Gary]

I squirted all the bolts I could see for the grill and bumper with wd40 last week a couple times throughout the week so hopefully they'll brake loose REAL easy.

That grill fits tight it seems.

That dash though I played with that baby for quite a while and didn't get it all unplugged. I got a new dakota digital dash to replace it with.

My paint is here, got plenty of roller pads and latex gloves and sand paper, tomorrow starts the paint! Redneck rolled paint extravaganzza!

Pics will be posted: http://faith.dixiesys.com/72GMC

As I remember to take them anyway

[ThatOneBlue67]

The dash has ONE main electrical plug that should be as easy as squeeze and pull. Oh wait... 30+ years old. Ok, better move it end to end. Should come righto ut. Also, your oil gauge line. GOnna need a small wrench. That oil tube doens't give much slack.

[Gary]

got the dash out, got the ac controls out, ripped out the cd player (in pieces, I lost my temper, it wasn't staying anyway), dropped the steering column down so I can sand and paint at least the part what shows, everything but the fasdfafraking ignition switch. I even got the vent windows out.

Broke the windshield getting it out, it was to be replaced anyway, it was milky around the edges but I was kinda wanting to keep it in one piece in case someone on the board mighta wanted it.

The rear window is in one piece at least, course I have a new tinted sliding glass window going back there still new in the box...

Once I'm done I'll have an online yardsale for the extra parts So far bench seat, rear window and grill.

Oh speaking of GRILL found a pretty nice chrome grill and eyerings on Ebay for $225 shipping and all! Jumped all over that. Even if it needs a little buffing and polishing those new chrome grills are ...!! my lord expensive.

Now I just need a nice tailgate, gonna paint mine but it really ain't worth painting might try and spruce it up with some diamond plate.

[SB406]

My paint is here, got plenty of roller pads and latex gloves and sand paper, tomorrow starts the paint! Redneck rolled paint extravaganzza!

Did I read that correctly??!
Are you actually going through all this trouble to paint it with a roller?
If you are...that's cool...different strokes for different folks...
I just feel like I'm missing something.

[Gary]

Sure why not, it's simple, I ain't paying 5grand++ to get it painted, I want it painted, I don't have a booth, you can roll easier outside than spray, rollers = pennies and no special knowledge required, spraying = guns and thinners and mixing and hardeners and other stuff I know nothing about, and dudes are having real good luck with foam rollers and thinned rustoleum, so here goes nothing

And paint is only as good as the prep, so I want to at least try and have it mostly rust free/straight before I paint it, roller or sprayer or however.

Here's some examples of 3 cars a dude did:
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/

If I can have my truck looking HALF as good as that charger's paint I'll be tickled pink.

[SB406]

Not sayin there's anything wrong with it.
Just the only roller jobs I ever saw were poorly done.
Those cars look pretty damn good!
I was checking out some of your truck pics before. Are any of them after your painting? If not, I'd like to see some when you're done. How do you get a smooth glossy finish?

[Gary]

Originally Posted by SB406

Not sayin there's anything wrong with it.
Just the only roller jobs I ever saw were poorly done.
Those cars look pretty damn good!
I was checking out some of your truck pics before. Are any of them after your painting? If not, I'd like to see some when you're done. How do you get a smooth glossy finish?

I'm just now sanding and patching it up to paint, so no progress other then deconstruction so far.

Apparently you wet sand, then polish like a madman to get a good shine. RO buffer is a definite must have apparently.

[Rydn2L0w]

Originally Posted by Dixiesys

Sure why not, it's simple, I ain't paying 5grand++ to get it painted, I want it painted, I don't have a booth, you can roll easier outside than spray, rollers = pennies and no special knowledge required, spraying = guns and thinners and mixing and hardeners and other stuff I know nothing about, and dudes are having real good luck with foam rollers and thinned rustoleum, so here goes nothing

And paint is only as good as the prep, so I want to at least try and have it mostly rust free/straight before I paint it, roller or sprayer or however.

Here's some examples of 3 cars a dude did:
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/

If I can have my truck looking HALF as good as that charger's paint I'll be tickled pink.

Does that even offer UV protection?? there always Macco. Just sand it down yourself. Thats the biggest problem with those guys. No adhesion. I work in a body shop there is no way spray bomb or roller paint is going on my truck. Quality products all the way. I want it to last if Im going through all the trouble. Just my two cents. You get what you pay for.

[Gary]

Originally Posted by Rydn2L0w

Does that even offer UV protection?? there always Macco. Just sand it down yourself. Thats the biggest problem with those guys. No adhesion. I work in a body shop there is no way spray bomb or roller paint is going on my truck. Quality products all the way. I want it to last if Im going through all the trouble. Just my two cents. You get what you pay for.

I may very well do that, however the INTERIOR is gonna be painted by roller no matter what I do with the outside after it's prepped. But I'm liable to get it all sanded and bondoed and ready to paint and say screw this, load it up on a uhaul trailer and take it to maaco and let them spray it for me. Depends on how much THEY want to do it.

For less than $800 it's a no brianer I'll let maaco/peach/earl schieb/whoever shoot it for me and call it done.

[Longhorn Man]

The rustolium is very good paint, and if you roll it on right, no one will ever know that you did it like that. I've seen one done up, and it was a 12 year old paint job... it looked great.
I've considered it over and over on my rig.

[Longhorn Man]

As for the ignition switch, put the key in, turn it back to the acc position (counter clockwise) then insert a thin allen wrench or a paperclip into that small round hole on the cafeplate. You'll feel a spring loaded plate. Pres on the plate, as you turn the key further to the left, and it should pop out into your hand. May take some cussing and a few tries, or it'll jump right out the first time.
Once you've done that, you can remove the chrome bezel.

[Gary]

Oh FURTHER to the left, ok that was my mistake

Here's that dart the dude did, finally got the link to it again: http://www.flickr.com/photos/xit1965...7594131616795/

[Gary]

http://faith.dixiesys.com/72GMC/PICT0004_001

Decided to smooth over the side lights, just took some mesh cut it to fit and just screwed it in place with the screws from the lights, and started slapping some bondo on.

On that subject, my god that bondo is some wicked stuff it starts to set up on you while you're just standing there slack jawed... The moral is definitely mix a LITTLE at a time!

[Rydn2L0w]

Originally Posted by Dixiesys

http://faith.dixiesys.com/72GMC/PICT0004_001

Decided to smooth over the side lights, just took some mesh cut it to fit and just screwed it in place with the screws from the lights, and started slapping some bondo on.

On that subject, my god that bondo is some wicked stuff it starts to set up on you while you're just standing there slack jawed... The moral is definitely mix a LITTLE at a time!

Thats not going to hold up! grind it back out, cut you a piece of metal, weld it in THEN fill with body filler. hit a few good bumps and that whole mess will pop back out. yuck.

[Longhorn Man]

I'll second that!

[Gary]

So my just screw some mesh in there idea ain't gonna fly eh? Ok guess I'll see about getting a welder and learning how to at least tack weld some stuff, been wanting to anyway.

[Longhorn Man]

You should try learning on something that is of NO value. Learing on a fender you plan on keeping is a bad idea. You'll blow a hole in the metal, and then you'll have to patch it up, plus you'll heat everything up so bad it'll warp like crazy....
An old fender maybe?

[Gary]

Whatever happened to stick welding haha, used to watch my granddad do that and it looked easy enough. Yeah I'll practice some on something else first.

[Rydn2L0w]

Originally Posted by Dixiesys

Whatever happened to stick welding haha, used to watch my granddad do that and it looked easy enough. Yeah I'll practice some on something else first.

If you dont have access to a welder or cant get the hang of it. Another alternative would be to glue the piece of metal in using metal bonding adhesive. Good quality glue though. Use what the professional body shops use to glue roof skins and what not on. If you use glue make sure both pieces are prepped right! (grind both pieces with 24 or 36 grit) Welding is the preferred method though, and is the only method I would use. Good luck! I bet griding all that mud is going to be fun! Make sure to wear a respirator! The dust will sit in your lungs if not and cause all sorts of problems.

[Gary]

Well rolling my truck probably is not gonna happen, I found a local tech school offering night courses in Auto Body, $150, 16 week course, 3 hours once per week, the first thing the instructor asks us?

"What's your project?" meaning "what are you gonna paint while you're here?"

State of the art paintbooth, the best paintguns (apparently they're like $700 each to buy) all the tools, frame machine, gonna learn to weld, all we gotta supply is the materials that are used up (sandpaper/paint/primer/tape/etc).

I'd be a fool not to take this oppurtunity.

One dude, this is his -5th- time taking the class, he's painting his 3rd car hahaha.

[_Dick_]

HEHE Good Luck Dixie glad its all working out and dont show then the soft foam tricks unless they give you a discount

smiles Dick