SM465 Shifter Question

[bbchevy]

Is there anyone out there that makes an aftermarket shifter for the older Gm truck tranny's? There are so many of those trucks out there, that im suprised that hurst doesnt make a kit of something.


-Scott

[wedgemon]

I've checked Hurst, B&M, etc. Best I've found is chrome ones at the junkyard.

I have seen a couple that were chopped to about a 6 - 8 inch stub. Machined flat on one side and had a Hurst bolted to it. Looked OK.

Let me know what you find.

- Dave

[bbchevy]

Yea if i cant find one i was just gonna do the idea with bolting the shifter on it. Is there a way to make the shifters a little tighter though. mine is sooo sloppy. thats the main reason i wanted a hurst.

-Scott

[wedgemon]

Originally Posted by bbchevy

Yea if i cant find one i was just gonna do the idea with bolting the shifter on it. Is there a way to make the shifters a little tighter though. mine is sooo sloppy. thats the main reason i wanted a hurst.

-Scott

There's a write up on the CK5 (Colorado K5) Site about this - I can't find the link tho. Unfortunately, The topload design of the 465 is less then adequate for HURST like shifts.

Here's w blurb from a member who did it.

The article is good and yes I did need to re-weld my shifter ball to the shaft because the welds do tend to be cracked on most shifters. But, more importantly, the pin inside the snout with the flat sides that actually contacts the shifter rail originally had a vibration isolation material from the factory that usually dries, cracks and falls out after years of use. Without this isolation material in there you can expect 1"-2" of slop in your shift pattern. The Pirate 4X4 article did not cover this part of the shifter slop problem. But, it is a relatively easy fix to remove the pin and replace the insulating material.
The repair process I came up with for replacing this vibration isolation material should be done after any welding repairs.

1. With the shifter removed from the transmission, place the snout of the shifter in a vice with the roll-pin hole verticle.
2. Drive the roll pin out with a pin punch and pull out the pin with the flats.
3. Clean the dried material out of the two grooves and clean out the hole.
4. In the past I have used clear thick walled Tygon tubing that is 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD. On the shifter I got from you, I used black neoprene tubing because I found that the gear oil hardens the Tygon after a couple years. Cut (2) 1/8" long peices of tubing and slide them over the pin and into the 2 grooves.
5. The hard part is getting the pin with the tubing back in the shifter snout. I used a coating of wheel-bearing grease in the pin and the snout then with a great amount of pressure you need to press the pin with the tubing back into the snout without letting the tubing roll out of the grooves. A small bladed straight screwdriver can help to get the tubing started into the hole when doing this part. Once the pin with the new tubing is back into the snout you will notice how firm the pin feels in the hole. There should be no slop at all now.
6. Rotate the pin to align the roll-pin hole with the hole in the snout and drive the roll-pin back in until it is evenly centered between both sides.
7. Reinstall your shifter.

I hope this helps when you are ready to do yours.

- Dave

[ALCANUCK]

Gm Part Number for new chrome shifter is 06274077.This does not include the spring or cap. Just did it on my truck throw was so short I thought I put it in wrong. 272.00 Canadian