Front Drop....add shims or delete shims????

[svgould]

If I were to add dropped coil springs on the front would the alignment shop have to add shims or delete shims on the upper control arm mount????


Thanks

[XXL]

Delete.

[Musclerodz]

Neither. Shims are for setting caster and camber settings.

Mike

[svgould]

Musclerodz,

I realize shims are for setting castor and camber. My question is: when installing lowering springs does the camber become more negative or more positive....i.e will the top of the tire lean in more or lean out more?? Would I have to add more shims or delete shims to correct for the lowered spring? There is so much conflicting data out there, just trying to find the correct answer. Here is some info I found on the web describing camber:

Camber - when you view the car from straight ahead or behind, the
amount that the wheels "lean" towards each other. Negative camber
looks like this: / \ Positive camber looks like this: \ /

Thanks for everybody's help,

Shane

[lilpup69chevy]

you drop a vehicle and its gonna have negative camber in the front

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Neither. Shims are for setting caster and camber settings.

So when he reduces the ride height by installing a lowered spring, the control arms are going to pitch UP in their arc, reducing camber angle.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by lilpup69chevy

you drop a vehicle and its gonna have negative camber in the front

I'd have to agree.

I had to add shims to get to zero. My lock nuts are at the ends of the bolts now.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Neither. Shims are for setting caster and camber settings.

Mike

Precisely why he is asking the question. "Neither" is not the answer.

[jasonrmorrow]

If you are going to get it aligned after, and you should, then just slap yer springs in and let the alignment shop do all the work.

I have dropped spindles and bags, before that i had stock spindles and 3" springs, there is only 3/4" of shims on my control arms, didnt have to touch it after getting it aligned at 3" springs and then at ride height with the bags.

The first alignment was done by someone else, but the 2 since then have been done by me, havent touched the control arms yet. Camber/caster all in spec and drives great.

[bodydropped]

if u do spindles then u dont change anything out because they were made to correct the camber but if ur goin to run just springs then ur goin to have to add but like they said let a shop do it because ur truck is supposed to have some what camber from factory

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bodydropped

if u do spindles then u dont change anything out because they were made to correct the camber but if ur goin to run just springs then ur goin to have to add but like they said let a shop do it because ur truck is supposed to have some what camber from factory

Typically shorter springs on these 1/2 ton trucks require more shims to get things right unless a)the lower BJ C/L is moved closer to the frame or b)the upper arm is extended.

I would also get it aligned even if it's just a spindle swap (it's cheaper than a new set of tires).

[dwcsr]

just as a note Moog sells a "Problem Solver" upper cross shaft that has addtional negitive camber built into it. I had to use them on mine.

[svgould]

Thanks everybody,

The reason I was asking is that I already have dropped spindles and am looking at 1.5 inch drop springs. Right now, the passenger side has a bunch of shims and no bolt left to add more (just had it aligned too!!). I guess I'm stuck with the ride height I have though.

Shane

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by svgould

Thanks everybody,

The reason I was asking is that I already have dropped spindles and am looking at 1.5 inch drop springs. Right now, the passenger side has a bunch of shims and no bolt left to add more (just had it aligned too!!). I guess I'm stuck with the ride height I have though.

Shane

Not necessarily so.

Those 'offset' a-arm shafts will be the equivalent of adding shims. You could possibly get away w/removing a shim or 2 if you used the offset shafts. Visit the front end guy that you plan to have do the alignment & see what he says.

FWIW.... On my 68 I have 2.5" drop spindles w/1 coil removed from the original springs (= 2~3" of drop) for a total of about 5~6" front drop. I still have room for more shims if they were required.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Neither. Shims are for setting caster and camber settings.

Mike

My bad, I had toe alignment on the brain when I posted.

Mike

[7387chevys]

So it is possible to get the wheels back to factory specs with drop springs.Now heres the question how much does it cost?

[bodydropped]

depends on the frt end shops charge because once u lower it, its best to take it to a frt end shop and get it realigned because it doenst hurt because u can do the drop and end up killin a set of tires i learned the hard way on my 96 when i put spindles i ended up killin the inside of my 17s

[jimmydean]

I just noticed the outsides of my tires are wearing funny. When I have the bags at about 3", I have positive camber. I have an appointment with a shop to get it adjusted, but I am waiting until I get my new cross shafts. Should be here this weekend.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

I just noticed the outsides of my tires are wearing funny. When I have the bags at about 3", I have positive camber. I have an appointment with a shop to get it adjusted, but I am waiting until I get my new cross shafts. Should be here this weekend.

A cut coil(2 1/2-3" drop), has also showed me positive camber.....not a big issue, but the outer edges of the tires have scrubbed some in the last 10,000 miles. I sure dont have many shims to remove tho.....the truck drives straight, & has been next to 140 on a good old backyard line up,fair tires, & decent brakes. Now you know for sure why they call me "crazy" Longhorn