Experience with the Performer intake?

[MrC1]

I've got a stock 402 in my '72 C20 now, but picked up a Performer 2-0 (regular Performer) intake at a swap meet recently. It's called a "stock replacement" by Edelbrock. It appears everything (linkage, etc.) will bolt up easily, but should I expect any performance improvement over the factory manifold?

Anyone have any experience with this?

I realize the aluminum will dissipate heat a little better and will be lighter, but what about power improvements? I'm not looking for high RPM increases, just improved performance in the range that I'll use it as a pickup: idle to about 5200 RPM.

[highboy_04]

they dont really provide much in the performance area. they dont flow much better than a stock intake. they just weigh less

[motocrosschump]

The is the perfect "TRUCK" manifold. IMPO. It makes better power down low.

[70rs/ss]

It will increase torque down low where you need it and carry you through %k rpm, which is where a stock BBC will be happy. Great manifold and if it a little taller (more Rpm) than stock, but not so tall you run into clearance issues.

[jimmydean]

I love mine. The dual plane Edelbrock stuff is very nice. A lot lighter and perty

[Pug}{maN]

i had a Performer on a sbc, its just like the stock Z28 one, good intake for towing or fun street car DD.

[matthufham]

it's ALOT lighter, i never drove with the original intake though.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by MrC1

I've got a stock 402 in my '72 C20 now, but picked up a Performer 2-0 (regular Performer) intake at a swap meet recently. It's called a "stock replacement" by Edelbrock. It appears everything (linkage, etc.) will bolt up easily, but should I expect any performance improvement over the factory manifold?

Anyone have any experience with this?

I realize the aluminum will dissipate heat a little better and will be lighter, but what about power improvements? I'm not looking for high RPM increases, just improved performance in the range that I'll use it as a pickup: idle to about 5200 RPM.

Any performance improvement would come from other changes to the engine that the manifold would support - it's the "gatekeeper" to the engine, so the key is not to make it a limiting factor. If you haven't upgraded heads, cam or exhaust, then it's doubtful your OEM manifold was holding you back much if at all.

It should be a bit taller than your stock manifold, which *may* provide a slight increase in torque low in the RPM band. A 1" spacer can help even further.

The big benefits are a) cool looking and b) ready for other engine changes if you make them.

[msgross]

I have always heard that the key to the intake is the cam that is made to go with it. When you combine both then you will see Edelbrocks perfromance output. You can use either by themselves but they work even better together.
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[Billla]

Originally Posted by msgross

I have always heard that the key to the intake is the cam that is made to go with it. When you combine both then you will see Edelbrocks perfromance output. You can use either by themselves but they work even better together.

Well, it's true that it's about matching components, but it's more than just the cam and intake. If the head won't pass what the cam will deliver, then you're still choking things off. This is why a lot of the "power packages" include intake, cam and heads.

[trkklr77]

this is a 77 truck[peanut port heads] 454 with a performer, holley carb and headers, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruqgvfFb6FA. [im going to pimp this clip as much as i possibly can]

they are not th etop of the line intake but it will give you some omf.

the stock intake on mine sat super low, the carb base was about even with the valve cover gasket and ive heard a lot about fuel pooling in the intake because it has to go uphill to get to the head. that low stance also put it right on top of the lifters so it splashed and bathed in hot oil all the time, the performers lowest point is the end seals, add a splash guard and your intake will stay as cool as it possibly can.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

ive heard a lot about fuel pooling in the intake because it has to go uphill to get to the head. that low stance also put it right on top of the lifters so it splashed and bathed in hot oil all the time, the performers lowest point is the end seals, add a splash guard and your intake will stay as cool as it possibly can.

Fuel pooling is often discussed but IMHO never seen except on hardcore NA drag engines. The temperature in the intake is such that IMHO it's not possible to have non-vaporized gas...especially on a street engine. ALL gasoline vaporizes at < the boiling temp of water...and clearly the intake is always hotter than 212 degrees F except at cold start.

A lot of HP factory intakes have splash guards but it's useless on the Performer as it has an exhaust crossover - so there's exhaust passing underneath the center plenum constantly anyway. In any case, the HP lost by heating the intake charge is very small and I wouldn't worry about this in anything making less than 1.5 HP/CID FWHP. I also don't recommend blocking off the heat riser with a metal plate gasket unless you live somewhere the temp is > 65 or so year-round.

The end seals on the SBC always suck This is why gaskets should never be used - just a nice bead of RTV.

[MrC1]

Thanks guys!

A few questions/comments...

1) I should be able to plug the heat crossover at the intake gasket, right? I believe this s an option with most gasket sets.

2) It appears to be the same height as the factory piece, so I'm hoping it will allow my 700R4 linkage to line up right.

3) I plan on adding some small tube headers and maybe a cam in the future. It will all be mild stuff though since I want to maximize low-end grunt.

4) Where can I get a splash guard?

[Billla]

1) Plugging the heat riser gives *zero* HP/TQ increase for a mild street motor and just makes the car run worse when cold.

2) It should

4) Again, *zero* HP/TQ but it's up to you. I don't know of any aftermarkets. You could always make one, but if you decide you MUST do this for some reason, be VERY careful about how you attach it - if one of the fasteners comes off, your valvetrain is toast. And of course you want to avoid drilling into an intake passage. IMHO a complete waste of time and $$$

[trkklr77]

but they are available from summit and jegs.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

but they are available from summit and jegs.

They carry all kinds of stuff that a) doesn't belong on a street motor and b) don't do any good for anything...but are just things people like to buy - even though they don't offer any real benefits.

Hey, no disagreement that a cooler intake charge gives HP...but I just can't see the importance of blocking the crossover or an oil shield on a street engine. I'll get off my soap box

[wolfthing2000]

This post has me thinking over my decision to purchase one of the RPM Air Gap manifolds from Edelbrock for my 383 roller motor build. I already have a performer of some type on the engine beinng pulled out. Would there be any real advantage to the Air Gap for a daily driver , tow vehicle (on occasion)????? Should I just use the one I have?????
Thank you.

[Frizzle Fry]

Good question wolf, and I'd like to hear some opinions too. I was just at the parts counter picking up some things for my Burb (396) and I was torn between the regular performer and the airgap. The main reason I was hesitant to go with the airgap was because it is an "RPM" series and moves the torque curve up about 1000-1500 RPM. But it is still a dual plane intake and I figured the colder charge might make up for some of that lower end trade off. So I said f-it and went with the airgap. Either way a performer will spank the torker II that's on there now.

[wolfthing2000]

Frizzle, I tend to agree with the RPM theory, seems like a cool looking manifold for sure. I am sure you will be happy with it. One advantage is that you can run coolant from back to front of the manifold externaly and let the engine move some of the coolant from the "dead spot" at the rear of the engine. That alone might be worth using one!!!

Any more opinions or theorys????

[409biscayne]

I put a Performer on the 68 w/396 this season , i thought i might see a drop in e.t's , wrong . Very little , if any change over stock cast iron intake . My engine is stock with the exception of Hedman headers , sure looks alot better though . I bought the intake at a swap meet for $60 , add a set of gaskets and a saturday morning , pretty decent swap i think , and when i add a mild cam it should work a little better . Go for it .

[Billla]

Originally Posted by wolfthing2000

This post has me thinking over my decision to purchase one of the RPM Air Gap manifolds from Edelbrock for my 383 roller motor build. I already have a performer of some type on the engine beinng pulled out. Would there be any real advantage to the Air Gap for a daily driver , tow vehicle (on occasion)????? Should I just use the one I have?????
Thank you.

The Air Gap concept IMHO is a marketing gimmick - they note their "race winning technology"...and again, I'd buy the cooler charge for a high-HP engine, but not for a street engine.

the RPM is intended for a higher RPM range as you note - unless you've got a really warmed over truck then you're looking for max torque off-idle to about 5000 RPM max - and the regular Performer is perfect for this range.

When you say roller motor - do you mean a roller cam?

[wolfthing2000]

Sorry, Yes , full valve train. I know this is also a RPM feature for engine building, but I like the no wear factor and cooler operation of the roller valvetrain concept.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by wolfthing2000

Sorry, Yes , full valve train. I know this is also a RPM feature for engine building, but I like the no wear factor and cooler operation of the roller valvetrain concept.

I'm working on my first Gen I hyd. roller project right now, but I've got a '95 LT1 on the stand that needs to get done right after my buddy's 383...priorities

I look more at the cam profiles - much faster ramp which is all good There's also a cool GMPP retrofit kit that allows changing the roller cam without having to pull the lifters. There are LS-type retainers so that you turn the rockers aside, turn the engine through one rotation and pull the cam...very cool UNFORTUNATELY only available on Gen I and Gen III (LS series) engines only

No hijack intended

[watahyahknow]

the things you want to try like the splashguard and the blocking of the coolandpassage is to keep the air cool inside the manifold theoreticly a colder charge is denser , like the others say its not for as streetcar aspecially in the winter .
the simpler way (and removable during winter) to do this is to make a cool airduct from aloy flexpipe starting from behind the grille to the airfilter , this prevents pinging when its realy hot outside and youre pulling stuff behind the truck , wouldnt advise it on dirtroads though .

[MrC1]

Some great info guys!

I think I'll go with blocking the heat crossover and the splash shield though. You gotta remember, I'm in Dallas and it's commonly 100*F or more for 3 months of the year. The winter really starts in late December to early January and only lasts until early February, with a total of only a few days under freezing.

I think I'd rather do anything I can to help keep the airflow as cool as possible. Cold starts really aren't a concern.