327 cid small block out of a Massey-Fergison

[lurch115]

i was wondering if anyone by chance had the specs. or knows where i could get the specs. for a 327cid small block chevy engine out of a Massey-Fergison combine.....i have identified it already as a '64-'67 2 bolt main 327 with 75cc heads, and know that it has a forged steal crank shaft......what i am mainly looking for is what horse it is and weather or not i can just slap a new intake on it and run it... as it ran before it was pulled and bought for $100 this summer...

here are the casting numbers off of the block...bellhousing (serial number)3858174
(front of the block behind and below where the alternator should be)
e0531zap

[Jonboy]

With heads like that, I wouldn't expect much. Those were built to be dependable, not have huge HP. Are you sure the heads have that big of combustion chambers? I thought the biggest ones during the smog days were 72 cc, but I could be wrong. I would try to find a later model head, with hardened valve seats, to bolt up and go. Maybe a later model set of 305 heads with smaller chambers would do what you need?

[Ron 586]

What are your plans for this engine. Do you plan a rebuild before putting it in a vehicle or just put what you have to on it to make it run?

[mhicks]

If the heads haven't been redone since unleaded gas was being used would unleaded be safe or haed on the heads? I have just always heard that.

[84 400]

unleaded will no luberucate the seats and guides. many people have there own views on how the unleaded gas will effect them. it was on a combine so would smog even matter?

[olblue81]

Originally Posted by lurch115

i was wondering if anyone by chance had the specs. or knows where i could get the specs. for a 327cid small block chevy engine out of a Massey-Fergison combine.....i have identified it already as a '64-'67 2 bolt main 327 with 75cc heads, and know that it has a forged steal crank shaft......what i am mainly looking for is what horse it is and weather or not i can just slap a new intake on it and run it... as it ran before it was pulled and bought for $100 this summer...

here are the casting numbers off of the block...bellhousing (serial number)3858174
(front of the block behind and below where the alternator should be)
e0531zap

When I was in college (Ag Machinery Tech) in the late 80s we looked up those motors in one of the text books. From what I remember they had forged steel cranks and pistons and a double roller timing chain. Bottom end should be stout, but the top end would be boring in a vehicle. If you put a set of better heads, intake and cam on/in it you should have a really cheap street motor. I know it was popular here to dump the 2 barrel intake and put a four barrel on it. I doubt it really made a difference to the combine, but it looked cool.

[IvelDesigns]

he's thinking about putting a pair of 60cc corvette heads off of a 283 on to it. assuming they pass the crack check.

and a 4bbl intake/carb

[72C203503ONTHETREE]

Most Chevy heads were 64 cc until 1971 when they started lowering the compression ratios. All 327's had forged steel cranks as far as I know and read until 68 when they went with the larger mains and rods. John Deere also used the 327 V8. The cam is probably pretty tame for a street engine but thats easy to change along with the intake/carb and maybe the heads.

[lilpup69chevy]

i'd say its a 250 hp engine or maybe less, but thats just a guess go to mortec.com and look up the casting numbers if you'd like

[lurch115]

okay...i didn't realize that i would get replies so fast, but here goes.....i have identified the block as a '64-'67 327, and also the heads...yes the heads are a 75cc chamber, not 72cc....as they are also a presmog engine....as for the intake and carb...they are hitting the road and will get a factory q-jet intake off of a newer motor....something about the quater size butterflies in the 2 barrel carb. tells me that the motor wouldn't be worth a crap in a car....i am planning on putting a pair of 60cc heads on it from a 283cid small block as they also put them on some 327's.....i am looking for a (no laughing) Chevette body to put it into....or i might just put it in my 4x4. i'm not for sure yet....and after this next srping i plan on getting ready to tear the motor down completely and make an 8,000rpm motor out of it...and yes it has a forges steal crank in it....keep in mind that while they put these engines in combines that they have never been ran much over 3,000 rpms....but it should make for a heck of a sleeper.....oh, and it is atleast 300hp

[lurch115]

oh, and as far as the leaded vs. unleaded......if it doesn't have the hardened valve seats in it....it is best to run leaded because it keeps the valve seats lubed and cooler so that they don't distort......if you don't run a lead additive it will eventually ruin the seats and you loose compression

[72C203503ONTHETREE]

The lead is supposed to lubricate the seats better, nothing to do with cooling. You can have hardened seats put in the exhuast valve positions to prevent valve wear to. The combine may not have turned the engine over 3 grand but it had to pull a heck of a lot of weight and run a lot of machinery at the same time. Take the heads off and see what the cylinders look like and check the main and rod bearings.

[84 400]

my dad had a chevette and it was one of the best cars he ever owned! he useed to drive it up in the montains of CO with no probles

[SSC's76]

Lubrication and cooling go hand and hand.

This engine will be a stock production low output engine the way it sits. They did use larger combustion chamber heads and in some id/ag aplications you may also find pistons with a huge "tub" area in the center of the piston kinda like a super dished piston. This was also another attempt to lower compression for the various grade fuels used world wide, help lower operation temps and extend service life. The valves are small as well, off hand I dont remember exact size but there dang small.

[lurch115]

for now i am just planning on getting it running again as i know it ran fine in the combine....well for 5 seconds anyways...the throttle was stuck and it imediatly kicked up to 1,500 rpms...which on a motor that has been sitting isn't good...but it didn't misfire, huff smoke, or rattle.....and boy did it start up good...but like i said i just want to get it running for now and in the spring i plan to tear it down and go through every inch of it....clean and cracked and machine work...then rebuilding it with alot of new parts....