New guy - Dumb instrument panel question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

68StepsideMF · 08-14-2002, 01:29 AM

Hey guys - I've been reading the board for awhile, but this is my first post. Apologies in advance for asking such an inane question.
I'm driving a 68 stepside, which I'll post some pictures of if I ever get around to developing the film. Not that it's much to look at right now...

Anyway, tried to remove the instrument panel last night - remove the support-thingy under the steering column, pulled off all the knobs, disconnected the speedo cable/wiring harness/etc., but the damn thing's still held in by the little knob-bezel-rings. What holds these on, and why can't I figure out how to get them off? Are they connected somehow behind the panel, or do I just need to pry them off? What's the secret?

Again, I know you've been over this a dozen times, but it's really driving me crazy.

On an unrelated note, the truck's been leaking oil since I got it. I replaced the valve cover gasket, since it was spraying out of there, and then discovered it's also leaking from the seams of the oil pan. Is there any way to replace the oil pan gasket without lifting the engine?

Thanks a lot

slam33 · 08-14-2002, 01:39 AM

The bezals just screw off and if you have an oil gauge you will need to disco the tube fitting on the back of it. As for the pan gasket, nope. you need to lift it to clear the crossmember, about 6 inches. You will also have to do the front cover. if you have the time , it's better to do it out of the truck on a stand.

DeepPurple · 08-14-2002, 01:42 AM

For your first question, the bezels should just screw off. Though if they are older you could have a good fight on your hands. Me, I ended up getting those rubber gripper things and turning one with that (the other broke off, but it was already broke in half when I started)
Another thing that many I know haven't thought of, did you unhook the oil line (If applicaple?) You'd be surprised how many people don't think of it.

As far as your question about changing the oil pan gasket without yanking the engine, I've never been able to. It doesn't have to come all the way out, but it does have to be lifted. (this isn't a problem if you have a beefy I-beam and a beefier hoist to haul said engine up). Paticularly if you have a big block.

hth

too many · 08-14-2002, 01:44 AM

I think you need to screw the chrome retaining rings off! They have a couple of small slots . Use a needle-nose plier or tap with a screwdriver, depending how tight! Not sure, but sometimes the headlight switch stem needs to be removed also. Do you know theres a small spring-loaded tab under the dash on the switch itself? Pull the headlight switch on , and reach under to push the tab in . Stem should pull out the rest of the way. oh , dont forget to unhook battery! Good Luck !!

lofly'a · 08-14-2002, 10:40 AM

i see your question got answered thoroughly, so welcome to the board.

GMCjunkie · 08-14-2002, 12:26 PM

If you got kicked off the board for askin "dumb" questions, Id have been gone along time ago

Also if you dont ask, you'll never know unless your lucky enough to mess around and figure it out.

Welcome to the board anyways......

Russ72C10 · 08-14-2002, 03:23 PM

I went through the same exact thing two nights ago. LOL. Those chrome rings around the wiper & headlight knobs had me fooled. I didn't think they'd unscrew... but they do... and ta-da....

Learn something new almost everyday!... well, at least I do!

Good luck!

JHickson6 · 08-14-2002, 05:30 PM

hey don't be ashamed, I once asked if Turbo 400 would bolt up to a small block (I shake my head now). I must have been drunk or something

Longhorn Man · 08-14-2002, 05:41 PM

As fpor your oil pan gasket, if it is a small block 2 wheel drive, it can be done, but not correctly. (I did it once, but 1/2 the old gasket ended up in the pan)
Pull the motor out.
HAve you tried tightening the pan up?

Old Paint · 08-14-2002, 09:05 PM

WELCOME !!!

68StepsideMF · 08-14-2002, 11:58 PM

Thanks guys...
For some reason *unscrewing* the things never occured to me. Nothing like overlooking the obvious.

As for lifting up the engine, I don't have a hoist (or even a beefy i-beam), so unless I can find a friend who does I may have to suck it up and pay someone to do it.

I did try tightening up the pan, which slowed the leak down a bit. I didn't wanna tighten it too much for fear of stripping the bolts, but I may give it another twist or two and see if it helps.

Thanks for the warm welcome - I'll try to get some pictures of the truck up next week sometime.

Oh, for anyone who's interested - My engine is a 250 cu in inline six. Other than some hard starts in the morning, it's running great. I replace the spark plugs the other day, and sprayed in some carb cleaner, which helped a bit, but I think I'll have to do a proper carb rebuild in the future.

Dan

*Zkast* · 08-15-2002, 12:27 AM

Pan should come out without lifting the engine.. You may need to jack up one side? As for replacing the pan gasket if you have too, here's a good tip.
Actually there are methods depending on how much room you have. but this seems to work best for most cars/trucks.

First- Get felpro gaskets, a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive and a tube of Permatex ULTRA GREY.
Remove pan, clean/scrap all the old gasket then dry with brake clean. Lay your gaskets out onto the pan as if were bolted to the block. Then take a small thin bead of the 3M and make a 1/4 line on each gasket. Take each gasket and place onto the block. Pull the gasket back off!! Put it back up there... Take it back off!! lol I know it sounds crazy but after the 3rd time it will stick and never move. Do this to the other side aswell. Then take your Permatex and lightly coat the entire gasket/end rail areas. Be sure to put a bit extra in all 4 corners. At this point your ready to install the pan without fear of moving the gasket or having it fall down on you. Snug each bolt up, dont tighten yet. After all are snug, start tightening them down until you see the gasket JUST start to push outward. Dont over tighten!!!!!!
This is a tried and true method I use at work... I dont like come-backs either! lol

Dont forget to put oil in

Southpa · 08-15-2002, 12:43 AM

If you are doing it with the engine still in, I would flush the pan before installing gaskets and bolting up.

Dropped67step · 08-15-2002, 12:51 AM

If you are close I have a hoist and could help love working on these things If you are close I would not mind helping If you are far a way maybe someone on the board close to you could lend a helping hand Later B.

Longhorn Man · 08-15-2002, 12:58 AM

You can get rental hoists pretty cheap. 20 bucks a day here...and they are only 3 blocks away, which is nice if you get the motor dropped in, but not running yet and out of rental time.

68StepsideMF · 08-15-2002, 01:13 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions.
I may try pulling the oil pan out without lifting the engine, as Zkast suggested. Otherwise I'll look around around for somewhere to rent a hoist.
I need to drive the truck every day, so it's kinda tough for me to do any major work on it. On the other hand, the idea of actually being able to clean *all* the grease off the engine is tempting (I feel like I'm scrubbing something in there every day, but it never seems to make much difference.)
Dropped67 - I'm in Calgary, Alberta. Not too close to you, I guess, but thanks for the offer.

Now I feel a serious need to go work on the truck. Too bad it's pitch dark outside...

Dan

08-14-2002, 01:29 AM	#1
68StepsideMF Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 23	New guy - Dumb instrument panel question Hey guys - I've been reading the board for awhile, but this is my first post. Apologies in advance for asking such an inane question. I'm driving a 68 stepside, which I'll post some pictures of if I ever get around to developing the film. Not that it's much to look at right now... Anyway, tried to remove the instrument panel last night - remove the support-thingy under the steering column, pulled off all the knobs, disconnected the speedo cable/wiring harness/etc., but the damn thing's still held in by the little knob-bezel-rings. What holds these on, and why can't I figure out how to get them off? Are they connected somehow behind the panel, or do I just need to pry them off? What's the secret? Again, I know you've been over this a dozen times, but it's really driving me crazy. On an unrelated note, the truck's been leaking oil since I got it. I replaced the valve cover gasket, since it was spraying out of there, and then discovered it's also leaking from the seams of the oil pan. Is there any way to replace the oil pan gasket without lifting the engine? Thanks a lot

08-14-2002, 01:39 AM	#2
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	The bezals just screw off and if you have an oil gauge you will need to disco the tube fitting on the back of it. As for the pan gasket, nope. you need to lift it to clear the crossmember, about 6 inches. You will also have to do the front cover. if you have the time , it's better to do it out of the truck on a stand. __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>

08-14-2002, 01:42 AM	#3
DeepPurple Real Deep... Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: St. Louis Posts: 116	Oil and Rings For your first question, the bezels should just screw off. Though if they are older you could have a good fight on your hands. Me, I ended up getting those rubber gripper things and turning one with that (the other broke off, but it was already broke in half when I started) Another thing that many I know haven't thought of, did you unhook the oil line (If applicaple?) You'd be surprised how many people don't think of it. As far as your question about changing the oil pan gasket without yanking the engine, I've never been able to. It doesn't have to come all the way out, but it does have to be lifted. (this isn't a problem if you have a beefy I-beam and a beefier hoist to haul said engine up). Paticularly if you have a big block. hth __________________ 1970 GMC C10 (Deep Purple) 383/700-R4 Mass Modifications 1976 GMC K5 Jimmy (Big Blue) 400/TH350 Coming soon to a drive-in near you... We have done So Much with So Little for So Long.. We are now qualified to do Anything with Nothing.

08-14-2002, 01:44 AM	#4
too many Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: nw IL Posts: 211	WELCOME 68 !!! I think you need to screw the chrome retaining rings off! They have a couple of small slots . Use a needle-nose plier or tap with a screwdriver, depending how tight! Not sure, but sometimes the headlight switch stem needs to be removed also. Do you know theres a small spring-loaded tab under the dash on the switch itself? Pull the headlight switch on , and reach under to push the tab in . Stem should pull out the rest of the way. oh , dont forget to unhook battery! Good Luck !!

08-14-2002, 10:40 AM	#5
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	i see your question got answered thoroughly, so welcome to the board. __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

08-14-2002, 12:26 PM	#6
GMCjunkie Dude...I'm a CHICK Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Lakeland Georgia Posts: 6,192	If you got kicked off the board for askin "dumb" questions, Id have been gone along time ago Also if you dont ask, you'll never know unless your lucky enough to mess around and figure it out. Welcome to the board anyways...... __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~* "The unexamined life is not worth living" -Socrates ~~~~~~~~~~~~~* '71 GMC Suburban 4x4

08-14-2002, 03:23 PM	#7
Russ72C10 Four Wheeler Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Decatur, IL Posts: 101	I went through the same exact thing two nights ago. LOL. Those chrome rings around the wiper & headlight knobs had me fooled. I didn't think they'd unscrew... but they do... and ta-da.... Learn something new almost everyday!... well, at least I do! Good luck! __________________ '84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s

08-14-2002, 05:30 PM	#8
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	hey don't be ashamed, I once asked if Turbo 400 would bolt up to a small block (I shake my head now). I must have been drunk or something __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!

08-14-2002, 05:41 PM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	As fpor your oil pan gasket, if it is a small block 2 wheel drive, it can be done, but not correctly. (I did it once, but 1/2 the old gasket ended up in the pan) Pull the motor out. HAve you tried tightening the pan up?

08-14-2002, 09:05 PM	#10
Old Paint Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fairdale, Kentucky Posts: 46	WELCOME !!!

08-14-2002, 11:58 PM	#11
68StepsideMF Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 23	Thanks guys... For some reason unscrewing the things never occured to me. Nothing like overlooking the obvious. As for lifting up the engine, I don't have a hoist (or even a beefy i-beam), so unless I can find a friend who does I may have to suck it up and pay someone to do it. I did try tightening up the pan, which slowed the leak down a bit. I didn't wanna tighten it too much for fear of stripping the bolts, but I may give it another twist or two and see if it helps. Thanks for the warm welcome - I'll try to get some pictures of the truck up next week sometime. Oh, for anyone who's interested - My engine is a 250 cu in inline six. Other than some hard starts in the morning, it's running great. I replace the spark plugs the other day, and sprayed in some carb cleaner, which helped a bit, but I think I'll have to do a proper carb rebuild in the future. Dan

08-15-2002, 12:27 AM	#12
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	Pan should come out without lifting the engine.. You may need to jack up one side? As for replacing the pan gasket if you have too, here's a good tip. Actually there are methods depending on how much room you have. but this seems to work best for most cars/trucks. First- Get felpro gaskets, a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive and a tube of Permatex ULTRA GREY. Remove pan, clean/scrap all the old gasket then dry with brake clean. Lay your gaskets out onto the pan as if were bolted to the block. Then take a small thin bead of the 3M and make a 1/4 line on each gasket. Take each gasket and place onto the block. Pull the gasket back off!! Put it back up there... Take it back off!! lol I know it sounds crazy but after the 3rd time it will stick and never move. Do this to the other side aswell. Then take your Permatex and lightly coat the entire gasket/end rail areas. Be sure to put a bit extra in all 4 corners. At this point your ready to install the pan without fear of moving the gasket or having it fall down on you. Snug each bolt up, dont tighten yet. After all are snug, start tightening them down until you see the gasket JUST start to push outward. Dont over tighten!!!!!! This is a tried and true method I use at work... I dont like come-backs either! lol Dont forget to put oil in

08-15-2002, 12:43 AM	#13
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,410	If you are doing it with the engine still in, I would flush the pan before installing gaskets and bolting up. __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first.

08-15-2002, 12:51 AM	#14
Dropped67step Gearhead since birth Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ft. Worth TX. Posts: 190	were are you located If you are close I have a hoist and could help love working on these things If you are close I would not mind helping If you are far a way maybe someone on the board close to you could lend a helping hand Later B.

08-15-2002, 12:58 AM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	You can get rental hoists pretty cheap. 20 bucks a day here...and they are only 3 blocks away, which is nice if you get the motor dropped in, but not running yet and out of rental time.



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08-15-2002, 01:13 AM	#16
68StepsideMF Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 23	Thanks for all the suggestions. I may try pulling the oil pan out without lifting the engine, as Zkast suggested. Otherwise I'll look around around for somewhere to rent a hoist. I need to drive the truck every day, so it's kinda tough for me to do any major work on it. On the other hand, the idea of actually being able to clean all the grease off the engine is tempting (I feel like I'm scrubbing something in there every day, but it never seems to make much difference.) Dropped67 - I'm in Calgary, Alberta. Not too close to you, I guess, but thanks for the offer. Now I feel a serious need to go work on the truck. Too bad it's pitch dark outside... Dan

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