Doing it myself - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mikep · 08-20-2002, 06:40 PM

Ive been doing the bodywork on the 68 getting it ready to paint for the last few months. I figured I'd straighten it out and then take it down to a paint shop to get sprayed so it looks good. The other day I was feeling lazy and wondered what it would look like painted black. I went down to the paint store and picked up a quart of black lacquer, prepped the hood and shot it with black lacquer. I picked thehood because it was the worst panel on the truck when I started. It had Lots of surface rust, small dents and heavily oxidized original gold ( YUCK ) paint that looked like baby poop. So I figured if I could get the hood straight enough I could certainly get the rest straight enough for black. It turned out awesome. I used lacquer because its just so forgiving. It dries super fast. Get a bug in it, dont worry. sand it off and buff. No problem. Lacquer is the only way to go for garage paint jobs Ive got about 3 coats on it and its like a mirror after buffing. I figure with 2 1/2 gallons of the stuff and a good clear coat it'll be damn near show quality and it will cost me about $2000 less than having a comparable job done at a professional shop. If I can find the digital camera I'll snap a pic of it. Its not perfect but its pretty close and with better color sanding and a few more coats it'll shine like glass. Ive never had the guts to do a car black before but I think Ive got enough experience doing body work under my belt that its not quite so scarry any more.

kaycee · 08-20-2002, 08:41 PM

Get us some pics man.Wish I had the nerve to spray mine

AK70SWB · 08-20-2002, 09:02 PM

yeah lets see pic's!!!!!
you got bigger balls than me---i'm scared to paint mine, myself, more or less black!
hope it all turns out as good as the hood!!!1
andy

big blue 72 · 08-20-2002, 09:35 PM

Mikep,
Good job bud!
i painted my 72 GMC last year (metallic blue) and now i've got a 67/71 that i'm getting ready to paint and it dont fit in the garage either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Send us some pics!!!

minibike · 08-21-2002, 01:17 AM

I'm doing mine one part at a time in the garage. Painted two doors so far. No problem except runs with the new PPG clear coats. This stuff keeps flowing for about 20 minutes after being sprayed.

Jwill41 · 08-21-2002, 08:18 AM

This is a pic of my brother painting my bed last summer. It came out pretty well for an outside job. The rest of the truck was painted 5 years earlier. Real good match even though it is kept outside.

stllookn · 08-21-2002, 10:12 AM

mikep, What kind of gun did you use? I am dying to try the same thing...got lots of parts I want to spray and what can you screw up when you start with a $55 truck? You can always sand it off again until you get it right...how else you going to learn anyway?

Got that burb from CARS4567 yet? Keep up the great work man...pics?

BTW...that baby poop color is Ochre...and I never liked it until I saw it in high gloss monochrome with the engine block painted the same color...I was hooked. It's an OEM nostalgia thang!

Woody · 08-21-2002, 10:34 AM

I painted mine (Blue/white/blue/white) about 5 years ago. I signed up for an evening autobody class at the local Vo-Tech. It forced me to devote the time to the truck and the real bonus was i used their paint booth. I used the cross draft booth(their down draft booth was busy with a day class project) and was very happy with the results. I used Imron, covered up myself completely, and used a gas mask. A full fresh air resperator is recommended for use with Imron, but I didn't have access to one, so I painted from the udwind side, making sure I couldn't smell the paint. And yes you can smell Imron thru a paint gas mask. I had a few runs that you really don't notice. I used a Low pressure high volume paint gun (Habor Frieght special) and the like I said above it turned out great.

stllookn · 08-21-2002, 10:38 AM

Last weekend at a party a long time Boeing airplane painter and former custom car painter told me to get an old Binks #7 (#3?) and spray lacquer. He said to forget about HVLP since it is much more prone to orange peel. He had some valid points about more air = better atomization and smaller drops, higher gloss with less sanding. I got to thinking that is perhaps why the basecoat/clearcoat is now the trend since EPA has all but outlawed the use of high atomization guns...good or bad. Any comments?

I have still not bought a paint gun but am getting very close...maybe I will just go borrow the neighbors gun and spray some test panels to see how much damage I can do!

vfrdude · 08-21-2002, 01:17 PM

Don't be afraid to use single ot two stage urehanes. It cost more, but is more durable than laquer, you don't need as many coats, and can be sanded and painted again in a few hours if you mess up. You do need to use the proper ventilation mask, don't even attempt to spray without one!

My dad sprayed a bumper cover for my brothers Honda Civic and it turned out great! It was the first time he had ever used urethane (sp.?). It's all he's going to use from now on....

minibike · 08-21-2002, 01:46 PM

I have the harbor freight special too. It is the one with the cup on top and the purple anodized gun. There are two sizes, and mine is the bigger one (about a 20-25 oz cup). It works fine. The urethane clear coat flows really well...haven't had any trouble with orange peel. I have to second the respirator comment though. The guy in the picture is getting away with it due to being in open air, but these new paints are very toxic. Use nitrile gloves and a good respirator.

stllookn · 08-21-2002, 03:15 PM

Good comments...all too aware of the respirator req's from HazMat training...always check the MSDS sheets now. Tool Town has a two gun gravity set (not HVLP however) for $99.95 (detail gun and big gun both gravity feed). I am thinking of trying those. I will probably go play with ORENCE1's guns before trying anything. Nothing like getting some guidance from a professional! I just don't think I need to spend $360 on a gun now...heck in my world that is almost a new truck....LOL!

mikep · 08-21-2002, 10:13 PM

My baby poop isnt Ochre. Its gold. Mines a 68 anniversary edition that I am painting black. As I think Ive pointed out before I'm not too enamored with the gold and white paint scheme. I'm still looking for my digital camera to take a pic of the hood. It seems I'll be doing one panel at a time for the next few months then buffing it all at once. I picked up two gallons of ppg black lacquer for the project. since I cant really access a clean area to paint in the lacquer will do the trick much better than any enamel can given the circumstances.

I'm using a couple of 60's vintage Devillbiss JGA guns for the project that my grandfather used when he ran a body shop in Los Angeles. I rebuilt them a few years ago and they are certainly well up to the task. Ones a dedicated primer gun and the other I use for top coats. Ive painted a few cars under more controlled conditions but the lack of a decent sized shop precludes that. I have to make due with my somewhat dirty double garage so fast drying lacquer is where its at.

stllookn · 08-22-2002, 02:22 AM

That's right, I remember now...you're the guy that covered up a 50th anniversary paint job!!!!!!!! LOL...it's your truck and you can do whatever you want with it. Until I knew there was any significance to them...I didn't like them much either.

Refresh my memory...what happened to the seats? Gave them away right?

wxman1 · 08-22-2002, 03:05 AM

I'll be starting to paint my 69 C10 P/U as soon as I get the
brake system re-worked. This truck apparently has some
rattle can enamel on it from the previous owner. I've heard
(someone mentioned painting with lacquer) that if you
spray lacquer over enamel that it will lift on you. I've also
heard that its not a problem as long as the enamel has cured.

Anybody got any experience with this?

Jim M.

bobs409 · 08-22-2002, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jwill41
This is a pic of my brother painting my bed last summer. It came out pretty well for an outside job. The rest of the truck was painted 5 years earlier. Real good match even though it is kept outside.

Get him a respirator! Never breathe in that junk. Your health is way too important.

mikep · 08-22-2002, 12:16 PM

I just ****canned the seat. It was beyond trashed. The springs were trashed, the foam was half gone and the upholstery looked like a family of rats had beeen living in it. I'm sure they had been. All that was usable was the frame. My neighbor GAVE me a newly reupholstered interior set from a 71 so thats whats in there now.

Lacquer over enamel will lift if the enamel hasnt fully cured. You'd be surprised how long it takes to fully cure enamel too. Either way a coat of primer / sealer in between takes care of the problem. BTW I use the cheapo non catalyzed dark grey ( black ) NAPA primer. You can spray a ton of it and as long as you arent expecting it to be your top coat for years it works fine.

It might not last as long as some enamels but I do like the way lacquer is dry almost as soon as it hits the surface. I buffed my hood out the next day.

08-20-2002, 06:40 PM	#1
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Doing it myself Ive been doing the bodywork on the 68 getting it ready to paint for the last few months. I figured I'd straighten it out and then take it down to a paint shop to get sprayed so it looks good. The other day I was feeling lazy and wondered what it would look like painted black. I went down to the paint store and picked up a quart of black lacquer, prepped the hood and shot it with black lacquer. I picked thehood because it was the worst panel on the truck when I started. It had Lots of surface rust, small dents and heavily oxidized original gold ( YUCK ) paint that looked like baby poop. So I figured if I could get the hood straight enough I could certainly get the rest straight enough for black. It turned out awesome. I used lacquer because its just so forgiving. It dries super fast. Get a bug in it, dont worry. sand it off and buff. No problem. Lacquer is the only way to go for garage paint jobs Ive got about 3 coats on it and its like a mirror after buffing. I figure with 2 1/2 gallons of the stuff and a good clear coat it'll be damn near show quality and it will cost me about $2000 less than having a comparable job done at a professional shop. If I can find the digital camera I'll snap a pic of it. Its not perfect but its pretty close and with better color sanding and a few more coats it'll shine like glass. Ive never had the guts to do a car black before but I think Ive got enough experience doing body work under my belt that its not quite so scarry any more. __________________ No truck :-(

08-20-2002, 08:41 PM	#2
kaycee Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Wyoming USA Posts: 2,445	COOL Get us some pics man.Wish I had the nerve to spray mine __________________ 2001 Silverado K-1500 2005 FXDWG stage3 69 CHEVY Short/Step 327/4L60 373 posi 63 IMPALA 327

08-21-2002, 01:17 AM	#5
minibike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 500	I'm doing mine one part at a time in the garage. Painted two doors so far. No problem except runs with the new PPG clear coats. This stuff keeps flowing for about 20 minutes after being sprayed. __________________ 69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com

08-21-2002, 08:18 AM	#6
Jwill41 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Farmers Branch, Tx Posts: 1,009	This is a pic of my brother painting my bed last summer. It came out pretty well for an outside job. The rest of the truck was painted 5 years earlier. Real good match even though it is kept outside. __________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/jwill41 67 1/2 ton GMC short step side 68 1/2 ton Chevy long fleet side 72 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban 99 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban founder (and only member) of the primer/clearcoat club

08-21-2002, 10:38 AM	#9
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Last weekend at a party a long time Boeing airplane painter and former custom car painter told me to get an old Binks #7 (#3?) and spray lacquer. He said to forget about HVLP since it is much more prone to orange peel. He had some valid points about more air = better atomization and smaller drops, higher gloss with less sanding. I got to thinking that is perhaps why the basecoat/clearcoat is now the trend since EPA has all but outlawed the use of high atomization guns...good or bad. Any comments? I have still not bought a paint gun but am getting very close...maybe I will just go borrow the neighbors gun and spray some test panels to see how much damage I can do! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

08-20-2002, 09:02 PM	#3
AK70SWB Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SPRINGFIELD MO. Posts: 126	yeah lets see pic's!!!!! you got bigger balls than me---i'm scared to paint mine, myself, more or less black! hope it all turns out as good as the hood!!!1 andy __________________ the sun even shines on a dogs a$$ some days!!!

08-20-2002, 09:35 PM	#4
big blue 72 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: hamilton,ohio,usa Posts: 1,499	Mikep, Good job bud! i painted my 72 GMC last year (metallic blue) and now i've got a 67/71 that i'm getting ready to paint and it dont fit in the garage either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Send us some pics!!!

08-21-2002, 10:12 AM	#7
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	mikep, What kind of gun did you use? I am dying to try the same thing...got lots of parts I want to spray and what can you screw up when you start with a $55 truck? You can always sand it off again until you get it right...how else you going to learn anyway? Got that burb from CARS4567 yet? Keep up the great work man...pics? BTW...that baby poop color is Ochre...and I never liked it until I saw it in high gloss monochrome with the engine block painted the same color...I was hooked. It's an OEM nostalgia thang! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) Last edited by stllookn; 08-21-2002 at 10:16 AM.

08-21-2002, 10:34 AM	#8
Woody Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Georgetown, KY, USA Posts: 631	I painted mine (Blue/white/blue/white) about 5 years ago. I signed up for an evening autobody class at the local Vo-Tech. It forced me to devote the time to the truck and the real bonus was i used their paint booth. I used the cross draft booth(their down draft booth was busy with a day class project) and was very happy with the results. I used Imron, covered up myself completely, and used a gas mask. A full fresh air resperator is recommended for use with Imron, but I didn't have access to one, so I painted from the udwind side, making sure I couldn't smell the paint. And yes you can smell Imron thru a paint gas mask. I had a few runs that you really don't notice. I used a Low pressure high volume paint gun (Habor Frieght special) and the like I said above it turned out great.

08-21-2002, 01:17 PM	#10
vfrdude Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Oakley, Ca. USA Posts: 137	Don't be afraid to use single ot two stage urehanes. It cost more, but is more durable than laquer, you don't need as many coats, and can be sanded and painted again in a few hours if you mess up. You do need to use the proper ventilation mask, don't even attempt to spray without one! My dad sprayed a bumper cover for my brothers Honda Civic and it turned out great! It was the first time he had ever used urethane (sp.?). It's all he's going to use from now on.... __________________ Rudy Fierros '95 Honda VFR750F Used to have a '71 Chevy Stepside, Guards Red, Lowered 4" rear, 3" front, White Oak bed wood, 700R4 w/373 gears until some low life stole it!

08-21-2002, 01:46 PM	#11
minibike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 500	I have the harbor freight special too. It is the one with the cup on top and the purple anodized gun. There are two sizes, and mine is the bigger one (about a 20-25 oz cup). It works fine. The urethane clear coat flows really well...haven't had any trouble with orange peel. I have to second the respirator comment though. The guy in the picture is getting away with it due to being in open air, but these new paints are very toxic. Use nitrile gloves and a good respirator. __________________ 69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com

08-21-2002, 03:15 PM	#12
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Good comments...all too aware of the respirator req's from HazMat training...always check the MSDS sheets now. Tool Town has a two gun gravity set (not HVLP however) for $99.95 (detail gun and big gun both gravity feed). I am thinking of trying those. I will probably go play with ORENCE1's guns before trying anything. Nothing like getting some guidance from a professional! I just don't think I need to spend $360 on a gun now...heck in my world that is almost a new truck....LOL! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

08-21-2002, 10:13 PM	#13
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	My baby poop isnt Ochre. Its gold. Mines a 68 anniversary edition that I am painting black. As I think Ive pointed out before I'm not too enamored with the gold and white paint scheme. I'm still looking for my digital camera to take a pic of the hood. It seems I'll be doing one panel at a time for the next few months then buffing it all at once. I picked up two gallons of ppg black lacquer for the project. since I cant really access a clean area to paint in the lacquer will do the trick much better than any enamel can given the circumstances. I'm using a couple of 60's vintage Devillbiss JGA guns for the project that my grandfather used when he ran a body shop in Los Angeles. I rebuilt them a few years ago and they are certainly well up to the task. Ones a dedicated primer gun and the other I use for top coats. Ive painted a few cars under more controlled conditions but the lack of a decent sized shop precludes that. I have to make due with my somewhat dirty double garage so fast drying lacquer is where its at. __________________ No truck :-(

08-22-2002, 02:22 AM	#14
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	That's right, I remember now...you're the guy that covered up a 50th anniversary paint job!!!!!!!! LOL...it's your truck and you can do whatever you want with it. Until I knew there was any significance to them...I didn't like them much either. Refresh my memory...what happened to the seats? Gave them away right? __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

08-22-2002, 03:05 AM	#15
wxman1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: mt juliet, tennessee, usa Posts: 237	I'll be starting to paint my 69 C10 P/U as soon as I get the brake system re-worked. This truck apparently has some rattle can enamel on it from the previous owner. I've heard (someone mentioned painting with lacquer) that if you spray lacquer over enamel that it will lift on you. I've also heard that its not a problem as long as the enamel has cured. Anybody got any experience with this? Jim M.



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08-22-2002, 12:16 PM	#17
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	I just ****canned the seat. It was beyond trashed. The springs were trashed, the foam was half gone and the upholstery looked like a family of rats had beeen living in it. I'm sure they had been. All that was usable was the frame. My neighbor GAVE me a newly reupholstered interior set from a 71 so thats whats in there now. Lacquer over enamel will lift if the enamel hasnt fully cured. You'd be surprised how long it takes to fully cure enamel too. Either way a coat of primer / sealer in between takes care of the problem. BTW I use the cheapo non catalyzed dark grey ( black ) NAPA primer. You can spray a ton of it and as long as you arent expecting it to be your top coat for years it works fine. It might not last as long as some enamels but I do like the way lacquer is dry almost as soon as it hits the surface. I buffed my hood out the next day. __________________ No truck :-(

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