Power Steering Input Seal??? - Anybody Changed One Before?

[arkracing]

Anybody tackled this repair in the past. Do I need and special tools?

I'm talking about the seal @ the top of the steering box where your steering shaft connects to the steering box (hence "Input" seal).

Any advise appreciated

Thanks,
Andy

[lilred67]

i've changed 2....PIA....but not rocket sciene..
no special tools need.the most important part i can remember is when removing the lock nut is to not let the input shaft etc. spin when turning the nut.you have to hold the input shaft still until nut is removed.
hope this helps..... i'm no pro but someone with good mechanic skills won't have to much trouble with this.....

[arkracing]

I Looked in my Haynes manual - but there isn't anything in there other than to do the pitman seal

I'm a pretty good mechanic - I'm confident in tackling the job. I've just never done it before. You just take that big thin nut off?? without letting the shaft spin?

As in how do I get to the seal? - which part of this do you take apart first?

[arkracing]

Anybody else? I would like to attempt this tomorrow (Saturday AM)

Thanks

[rwgregory]

I have copies of the GM Factory overhaul manual for power steering pumps and boxes- July 1970 edition. PM me if interested.

[jhow66]

Go buy the seal first--the ones that I have installed came with instuctions --Autozone part # 7095. (Can be installed without removing nut.)

[Green Machine]

How is the seal swap going ? I have a box here that would be fine if it did not leak there also, don't want to throw it away if it is possible to fix.

[arkracing]

I didn't take pictures (sorry) I was in a rush and forgot to.

Not bad at all - I got it done in about 20 minutes (after I took the steering box out of the truck - I would suggest doing this as it is easier to put the box in the vise and do the work.)


Edleman/Stant part number is 7095 like mentioned above (a good parts store will know what you are talking about if you ask for an upper seal repair kit for your steering box)
There should be instructions and 4 parts = O-Ring, Seal, Dust Shield, Snap Ring. The directions are confusing as hell. So I did the man thing and figured it out for myself.
Should be $10 or less - I paid $9 and change - but didn't get it from autozone I go to a small chain where they actually know WTF I'm looking for when I ask for it. and when I say '71 they go straight to the book instead of trying to look it up in the computer.


#1. I put the box straight up in the vise. Cleaned the input area with some brake cleaner and blew it off with compressed air.

#2. I took the snap ring out - you'll be able to see it clearly.
#3. Use a small pick awl to "pick out" the visible dust shield - it almost looks like the seal but it's not it's just a dust shield.
#3. You have to take that big ring nut off. - Special tools needed: Biggest pair of channel locks you have or a BFH (Big Friggen(or F'in) Hammer & Chisel.
Back Off the big nut just like any other nut.
#4. The whole end assemble will pull out of the steering box - if the worm shaft "fall" down into the box don't worry it's not a big deal. it might just slide down a little.
#5. Once you have the assembly out you will see the regular seal in there - there is a small space between the seal and the roller bearing that you can stick a screwdriver in and pry the seal up. - be carefull not to nick anything in there.
#6. Put the new seal in. I used a 15/16" impact socket - find what ever you have that is just slightly smaller than the ID of the assembly. Make sure it is all the way down. There is a small machined lip in there that it sits against. It is hard to see the lip but it is there.
#7. There is an O-Ring on the outside of the assembly - pick it off and put the new one on.
#8. put the assembly back in the steering box - you might have to pull the worm shaft back up.
#9. Screw the big nut back into the box.
#10. Put the new dust shield in.
#11. Put the New Snap Ring in.
#12. Put the steering box back in the truck - that was the worst part of the whole job.

You're Done - Be proud of a job well done, and the fact that you just learned something new

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by jhow66

Go buy the seal first--the ones that I have installed came with instuctions --Autozone part # 7095. (Can be installed without removing nut.)

You have to remove the big nut to get the New O-Ring on anyway.

[badpeanut]

Probably too late, but I'd also recommend doing the "output" seal (aound the shaft that the Pitman arm attaches too) while you have the box out. I did one seal in mine, and then had to do the other a year later (had to put the box back on the truck twice which is the worst part of the job).

[Green Machine]

That is some very helpful info ! So them d@mn ball bearings won't fall out it you know what you are doing ?

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by Green Machine

That is some very helpful info ! So them d@mn ball bearings won't fall out it you know what you are doing ?

I didn't see any ball bearings @ all when I took it apart.

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by badpeanut

Probably too late, but I'd also recommend doing the "output" seal (aound the shaft that the Pitman arm attaches too) while you have the box out. I did one seal in mine, and then had to do the other a year later (had to put the box back on the truck twice which is the worst part of the job).

I still have to replace my DragLink Tie Rods so I will do it then. It is actually easier to do it in the truck. My buddy said that he pulls the Pitman arm off, pulls the SnapRing out and puts a coffee can under the box then starts up the truck. This bassically "Blows the seal" right out of the box. Then he just puts the new one in and replaces the Snap Ring. That way you don't have to pull the top of the box off, etc.

Probably not the right way to do it but it sounds good to me - less I have to take apart that i might screw up the better

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by arkracing

I still have to replace my DragLink Tie Rods so I will do it then. It is actually easier to do it in the truck. My buddy said that he pulls the Pitman arm off, pulls the SnapRing out and puts a coffee can under the box then starts up the truck. This bassically "Blows the seal" right out of the box. Then he just puts the new one in and replaces the Snap Ring. That way you don't have to pull the top of the box off, etc.

Sounds like a good idea. I did mine without taking anything apart, but it was tricky to get ahold of the old seal to get it out.

[BCOWANWHEELS]

thats the same way i change output & input shaft seals in semi truck boxes. i let the pressure blow em out.