Used 350 ci engines

[Richard H.]

The thread below "Can we talk about 350 ci power" is very good, lots of good and some confusion for me. The engine in my truck is fine but while I am restoring it I want to buy a used motor to build up. The ole boy I got the truck from has a good friend that has a salvage yard and I was told to come up with what I wanted so they could be on the look out and hold it for me.
I know squat about vortec heads good ones,bad ones. When I'm done I would like to have at least 300hp. So if you all had a choice , what year, make model would you go after?
Thanks, Richard

[cooters]

well here goes. I like 87 and newer 350 blocks because they are plentyful, one piece rear seal ( no more leaks ) The bad side is that most fuel injected blocks are not machined for fuel pumps so electric pumps are needed. 2 bolt main blocks are good for 450hp in most applications. The old blocks with the block #3970010 are the strongest but getting harder to find in good shape. Vortec heads in trucks from 96-98 are plentyful and make good power and milage. An aftermarket intake is required but dont use the garbage plastic gaskets instead use the felpro retrofit gaskets. Make sure to magniflux the blocks as they can crack above the lifters. Source out rebuilt heads instead of wrecker heads as they are getting cheaper all the time. Make sure you get 350 vortec heads not 305 heads

[Billla]

Cooters nailed the key points; I've got 3 of those '010 high nickel, high tine blocks that it would take a lot to pry out of my hands. Just tore one down with > 100K miles on it...and NO measurable bore wear. I'd call BS on myself if I hadn't measured it 3 times

Avoid heavy-duty and 1-ton trucks for the Vortec engines - these often have Iconel single-angle seats that have poor flow characteristics.

Budget is a key question - with NEW Vortecs going for about $525/pair do you want to spend maybe $300 or more getting a used set rebuilt? For the HP level you're shooting for you shouldn't need over .450 lift.

[cooters]

when you pay 200 for the heads and then rebuild them it is cheaper to buy new, but if the heads fall in your lap then rebuild. you need vortec rocker arms, standard rockers wont work. Do not use a vortec block, use a 1995 block or older with the vortec heads. thanx for contributing BILLA. A little discusing is a good thing

[Richard H.]

Originally Posted by Billla

Cooters nailed the key points; I've got 3 of those '010 high nickel, high tine blocks that it would take a lot to pry out of my hands. Just tore one down with > 100K miles on it...and NO measurable bore wear. I'd call BS on myself if I hadn't measured it 3 times

Avoid heavy-duty and 1-ton trucks for the Vortec engines - these often have Iconel single-angle seats that have poor flow characteristics.

Budget is a key question - with NEW Vortecs going for about $525/pair do you want to spend maybe $300 or more getting a used set rebuilt? For the HP level you're shooting for you shouldn't need over .450 lift.

Sooo Guys, I want to stay under 1995 and I don't want a truck motor and I don't want to go below 1985. When I call these people I don't wanna sound like the green bean I am when it comes to Chevys. It has been a long time since the late sixties and early 70's so i really don't know what is out there model wise today. What did these high nickel blocks come in?

[cooters]

if you want a one piece seal, no older than 1987, but otherwise any block from 1995 to 1968. High nickel was 1968 to 1976 ( orange block )make sure to buy a complete motor or complete shortblock (no heads ) to ensure the crank and rods are correct and relatively balanced. Truck or car block does not matter but one piece blocks are easy to find truck cores

[Richard H.]

Originally Posted by cooters

if you want a one piece seal, no older than 1987, but otherwise any block from 1995 to 1968. High nickel was 1968 to 1976 ( orange block )make sure to buy a complete motor or complete shortblock (no heads ) to ensure the crank and rods are correct and relatively balanced. Truck or car block does not matter but one piece blocks are easy to find truck cores

There you go with the orange block , that is where my brain stops as far as chevy engines. Probably because that is when my first child was born ,1976 not much playing with cars after that. The engine that is in the truck now is a turquoise color now (factory) which tells me it is after 1976. Can you tell me what years they were this color. Thanks

PS. I was told last night there is a guy near me who has two 396 engines and one 409, this could get interesting !

[WorkinLonghorn]

2 bolt main blocks are good for 450hp in most applications.

I always wondered about this,IE why the GM engineers specified 4 bolt mains on truck engines and I assumed it was not about horse power,but the fact that they operate at LOW RPMs under heavy torque requirements. My last '69 had the 3970010 4 bolt block and was rated at 355 Ft/lbs. at 2600 RPM.(I think it was)
I would still look for a 4 bolt block for truck applications,although I have no specific info about 2 bolt mains being inadequate.It's just that they must have had a reason and there are still 4 bolts around.-cougar

[Richard H.]

Cougar i think your right it is all about torque, in the 70's I worked for a sign shop and the trucks usually weighed in at 16k to 20k continuous load and they all had 350s. To keep em going 65 mph down the highway it was pedal to the metal. If I was thinking burn-outs or racing with slicks I would definitely want a 4 bolt to handle the stress .

[piecesparts]

The other thing that I haven't seen here is the discussion on a heavy block compared to the light block. It was basically covered in the difference of the consistancy of the materials in the block, but some the older blocks pre-85 had more metal in them and they were excellent for the build-up to a stroker motor. The recognition point for most of these motors was the length of the serial number pad on the block (just in front of the passenger side head. If the pad is long (going from the lifter vallley gasket area to about the middle of the head) then that was considered a heavy block. If the number pad area is short and does not go all the way up to the lifter valley gasket area, then it was a light block. Also amoungst all of this, there could be either 4 bolt or 2 bolt mains inside.

[Myself]

How come nobody has mentioned 88-92 Iroc, Formula, and GTA. Lots of these came with 5.7 factory roller cam engines, and great flowing heads. You can generally buy the whole thing for $1000 or less in running condition.

[piecesparts]

Don't forget the Corvette motors from those years. I have a 5.7 motor sitting on an engine stand right now, that came from a 90 Vette. The L-98 motor was great up to about 4000 RPMs, with the aluminum heads, and then the curve flattens out. However, with the install of a set of Vortec heads the curve can go on up to 5200 RPMs and the HP goes up to about 350 to 375. This all depends on what you do with the intake and exhaust set up.

[cooters]

nothing wrong with camaro or corvette blocks but lets go back to the point. A block is needed for rebuild, so why pay bigger money for a car block. This is a budget rebuild, build 300hp is the requirment. I use the truck blocks (1987 to 1995 because they are plentiful, cheap, and a good block. 4 bolt mains were for torque and less cap walk. 400's were pulling motors and very few were 4 bolt. Bottom line is this, few fuel injected blocks were 4 bolt, if the cost is the same take the 4 bolt, you will most likely get 2 bolt mains anyway