Guesstimating a level ride height

[IvelDesigns]

So I'm here, and my truck is two hours away. I'm thinking to myself, how i can ensure my ride height is pretty much level front to back when i install my bags.

my plan is to do the rears first (all of the parts are sitting with my truck right now) and the do the fronts in a few weeks. I will have the whole back half tore down because i am also dropping in some new trailing arms. I figure then is the best time to add drop blocks. problem is, i don't know how much of a block i'll need to get the ride level.

up front i am using a 7", 200PSI slam specialty bag with cups that i plan to cut down to 1-1.5". i am using the same bag in the stock coil location in the rear, and installing a CPP notch.

What size block should i get, if any, to get a close to even ride height?

[IvelDesigns]

actually, i need to rephrase that. I can adjust the ride height by changing the air pressure.

i should have said "a level dumped height"

[smbrouss70]

Block size won't matter if all you are running is a Bolt-in c-notch. The axle will bottom out in the c-notch either way.

[IvelDesigns]

i was under the impression that with bags in the stock location, you won't hit the frame (w/o a notch) unless you have blocks. So mu thought was, if i add the cpp notch, i could go with a 2" block, and still not be hitting frame.

is that correct?

[67Fleet]

A 2" block will get your axle planted into the top of the notch with those bags. That's what I'm running. You're going to have to notch out your bed also for the pumpkin or it will be the first thing to hit. Cut a small square out for the diff to come up thru the bed. It will come up about a 1/2".

[IvelDesigns]

my preference is to not cut the floor in my bed, but will do it if it makes the ride height look better.

if i were to go with a 1.5" block, would that save me from cutting up the wood floor in my bed? or are you saying it pokes through the floor about 1/2"?

What did you do for your front setup? and is your dumped height close to level?

[Hart_Rod]

The size of the lowering block does not determine if you hit the bed floor or not. The block is under the axle. What determines whether you hit the floor is the size of your c-notch. Hopefully this make sense.

[IvelDesigns]

it does. the way i look at it is, w/o a block, i don't think i'll hit the notch. with, say a 2" block, i will. so my thought is that with a 1" or 1.5" block, i won't hit the notch, but will be closer, therefore, the pumpkin won't be as high, missing the bed.

am i off base here?

[Slammed67]

I'm thinking to myself, how i can ensure my ride height is pretty much level front to back when i install my bags.

Air bags manufacturer's have recommended ride heights for their bags. Figure out what the ride height is for the bags you are using. Next get the truck setting at the ride height you prefer (add a bunch of weight, take the springs out, etc.). Then its just a matter of measuring. For example, on the rear, with the truck sitting at the ride height you like, measure the distance between the top of the trailing arm and the bottom of the frame (or where ever you are mounting the bags). Let's say the distance is 7". Let's say the bag's recommended ride height is 5". Therefore you'll need to make up the 2" somewhere to get the desired ride height.

Air Ride Tech, for example, has ride height (installed height) info on their web site for the bags they sell:

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/dimensions.asp

This is the way I set my ride height and it worked pretty well.

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by Slammed67

Air Ride Tech, for example, has ride height (installed height) info on their web site for the bags they sell:

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/dimensions.asp

This is the way I set my ride height and it worked pretty well.

Good call on looking up the specs on the web. Here's what i found for the slam specialties bag i am using:

http://www.slamspecialties.com/specs/RE-7.pdf

[pharcyde05]

if all your worried about is making the truck level when laid out do the front first then make back match you can always put rubber stopper in notch to stop back from getting lower than front