lifting the tub with top on - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

70gmcjimmy · 01-14-2007, 04:51 PM

Howdy guys,
I have a Jimmy that has never had the top off and I am trying to do more of a "preservation" rather than a restoration, repairing and repainting only areas that need it. Body mounts are bad, the old ones unbolted fine so now I need to know where is a good place to lift the front of the tub with the roof and doors on? Glass is still in it too. The mount bolts are nice enuff that I dont have to grind the welds and replace them. I did take off the tailgate to get my cherry picker to lift the rear of the tub from seat mount holes. I have a gantry crane to lift the front.
Yah, I know that everyone has these trucks to run around topless, but since this one never has I thought I'd try to leave it that way for the heck of it to keep its story a little different.

Any help is appreciated!---DAC

71swb4x4 · 01-14-2007, 05:02 PM

If the tranny and transfer case are out I would get a couple boards to spread the weight and lift it with a jack.
Otherwise I would roll down a window and stick a cherry picker through the window and use the front seat bolts to lift it.
I would block it between the tub and frame once it's up, you don't want it coming down with your hand or arm in between the tub and frame.

Livrat · 01-14-2007, 06:41 PM

I lifted up the back with a chain bolted to the tailgate hinge holes and an engine hoist then put two 30 gallon drums on each side with a railroad tie from side to side.. then on the front I lifted the body one side at a time to hook a clevis on to the front body bolts and also lifted it with the engine hoist and set it on jack stands

LUV2XCLR8 · 01-14-2007, 07:16 PM

I have always heard here that it is best to leave the top ON if you are
removing the body from the frame, it keeps the front firewall and wind
sheild frame in check, if your rocker boxes are rusty it wil help also

Jtrux · 01-15-2007, 12:26 AM

Man you guys make it look easy. I just got finished helping Critter change out his body mounts this evening (polyurethane from Energy Suspension) and we would just position a jack where we needed it using a board to properly distribute the load and lift up and slide the pucks in place. Getting the bolts off was the hardest (PO welded the old ones in place so much grinding was in order) but installing the new ones was a piece of cake and the doors open better now too. The front and back ones were the trickiest. We had to loosen the radiator and push it forward for the front ones and in the back we had to remove the gas tank. Keep in mind he has a 38 gallon tank in the back out of a newer truck so a stock one might be different.

Critter · 01-15-2007, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70gmcjimmy

The mount bolts are nice enuff that I dont have to grind the welds and replace them.

Are you saying that the bolts came welded to the body from the factory? If so, I feel dumb, I thought that the PO did it to mine.

70gmcjimmy · 01-15-2007, 07:48 PM

Hey guys, thanks for the speedy replies! The idea that will work best for my situation (trucks position in my shop) is the jacking and blocking from underneath as 71swb4x4 suggested (Hows the weather out east SD, dry and cold here)
Thanks for the pics, Livrat, I just cant get the cherry picker around front, and the gantry crane may damage the firewall and components.
Yah Jtrux and Critter, the bolts are welded at the factory, so I have to lift it high enuff to clear the bolts too since they are reusable.
Luv- my rocker boxes rockers and supports show minimal surface rust much less holes so I probably could lift it without the roof even but being wierd Im trying not to remove the top. Some of the guys here said they build supports in the door and tailgate holes to lift topless but it seems to me that top on would be the least risky way. Somewhere here I read to change and repair the mounts before the rust panel repairs are started.

Thanks again---DAC

71swb4x4 · 01-15-2007, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70gmcjimmy

Hows the weather out east SD, dry and cold here

Dry and cold here too. We missed out on the snow that Sioux Falls got.

Good luck on your project!

70gmcjimmy · 01-16-2007, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Dry and cold here too. We missed out on the snow that Sioux Falls got.

Good luck on your project!

Thanks again for the advice---40s today hopefully its coming your way!

Later---DAC

01-14-2007, 04:51 PM	#1
70gmcjimmy GMCDAC Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rapid City, SD Posts: 837	lifting the tub with top on Howdy guys, I have a Jimmy that has never had the top off and I am trying to do more of a "preservation" rather than a restoration, repairing and repainting only areas that need it. Body mounts are bad, the old ones unbolted fine so now I need to know where is a good place to lift the front of the tub with the roof and doors on? Glass is still in it too. The mount bolts are nice enuff that I dont have to grind the welds and replace them. I did take off the tailgate to get my cherry picker to lift the rear of the tub from seat mount holes. I have a gantry crane to lift the front. Yah, I know that everyone has these trucks to run around topless, but since this one never has I thought I'd try to leave it that way for the heck of it to keep its story a little different. Any help is appreciated!---DAC __________________ 1970 GMC K5 Jimmy Custom 4X4 Mom's driver from 1971 to 2001!! Under rebuild! 1972 GMC C2500 Pickup owned since 1979 Needs a rest and refurbish! 1955 GMC 100 2nd design driven almost daily! Rest In Peace Mom. "Dolly" 7/15/23 - 5/18/09 GMC driver for 30 years!

01-14-2007, 05:02 PM	#2
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	Re: lifting the tub with top on If the tranny and transfer case are out I would get a couple boards to spread the weight and lift it with a jack. Otherwise I would roll down a window and stick a cherry picker through the window and use the front seat bolts to lift it. I would block it between the tub and frame once it's up, you don't want it coming down with your hand or arm in between the tub and frame. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

01-14-2007, 06:41 PM	#3
Livrat Member #1049 Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Troy Montana Posts: 3,940	Re: lifting the tub with top on I lifted up the back with a chain bolted to the tailgate hinge holes and an engine hoist then put two 30 gallon drums on each side with a railroad tie from side to side.. then on the front I lifted the body one side at a time to hook a clevis on to the front body bolts and also lifted it with the engine hoist and set it on jack stands Attached Images Last edited by Livrat; 01-14-2007 at 06:41 PM.

01-14-2007, 07:16 PM	#4
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,468	Re: lifting the tub with top on I have always heard here that it is best to leave the top ON if you are removing the body from the frame, it keeps the front firewall and wind sheild frame in check, if your rocker boxes are rusty it wil help also __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

01-15-2007, 12:26 AM	#5
Jtrux I'm a poor spectator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: San Antonio, Tx Posts: 2,287	Re: lifting the tub with top on Man you guys make it look easy. I just got finished helping Critter change out his body mounts this evening (polyurethane from Energy Suspension) and we would just position a jack where we needed it using a board to properly distribute the load and lift up and slide the pucks in place. Getting the bolts off was the hardest (PO welded the old ones in place so much grinding was in order) but installing the new ones was a piece of cake and the doors open better now too. The front and back ones were the trickiest. We had to loosen the radiator and push it forward for the front ones and in the back we had to remove the gas tank. Keep in mind he has a 38 gallon tank in the back out of a newer truck so a stock one might be different. __________________ 2006 Jeep Unlimited IMPACT ORANGE 1993 Chevy 2500 4x4 ExCab LWB 454/NV4500 Tow rig 1977 Ford F100 2x4 LWB 1st truck I owned, still have it!!! 1979 Ford F150 4x4 SWB Built Ford Tough!!! 1971 Chevy Blazer 350 / SM465 / NP205 UNDER CONSTRUCTION Soon to have a LQ4 6.0!!!

01-15-2007, 07:48 PM	#7
70gmcjimmy GMCDAC Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rapid City, SD Posts: 837	Re: lifting the tub with top on Hey guys, thanks for the speedy replies! The idea that will work best for my situation (trucks position in my shop) is the jacking and blocking from underneath as 71swb4x4 suggested (Hows the weather out east SD, dry and cold here) Thanks for the pics, Livrat, I just cant get the cherry picker around front, and the gantry crane may damage the firewall and components. Yah Jtrux and Critter, the bolts are welded at the factory, so I have to lift it high enuff to clear the bolts too since they are reusable. Luv- my rocker boxes rockers and supports show minimal surface rust much less holes so I probably could lift it without the roof even but being wierd Im trying not to remove the top. Some of the guys here said they build supports in the door and tailgate holes to lift topless but it seems to me that top on would be the least risky way. Somewhere here I read to change and repair the mounts before the rust panel repairs are started. Thanks again---DAC __________________ 1970 GMC K5 Jimmy Custom 4X4 Mom's driver from 1971 to 2001!! Under rebuild! 1972 GMC C2500 Pickup owned since 1979 Needs a rest and refurbish! 1955 GMC 100 2nd design driven almost daily! Rest In Peace Mom. "Dolly" 7/15/23 - 5/18/09 GMC driver for 30 years!



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