Need Help

[pgf545]

On the truck that I am working on the drivers door was folded forward somewhere in it's life. I have been trying to straighten it out with some luck. For the most part it is back in the orginal position, but I am having trouble with the door gaps. I can't seem to get the door far enough forward and it is hitting on the striker area. I did adjust it with a 2by and a hammer and it helped a bunch but has does anyone know the measurements from the hinge to the rear post? I have tried to compare the pass side to the drivers but something is still amiss. I have thought about making a fixture off the pass side and fliping the measurements for the drivers side...think that would work? I want to do this before I complete the floor so that I can adjust things before it gets to tight.

Bernie

[sevt_chevelle]

take some measurements from the pass side door opening. Use pinch welds or spots that are common on both sides. It very well could be that your that door pillar is pushed back.

[pgf545]

I have been trying that. I think it has a little twist to it but I can't seem to find it. I guess it is going to take some more patience...lol. I have been using the bolt hole locations because I figured that they would be the most important. I think I have a combination of problems though. I am thinking about using the new cowl panels for guides and maybe I can figure it out. Here is a picture of the bend before I knocked it out and then one from the inside with the inner cowl removed. The third and forth ones are when I was straightening it out. I first knocked out the dent and that went pretty well. When I started taking measurements the front edge was still to far forward so I figured the outer cowl panel was still to far forward so I cut the panel length wise and there was a bunch of tension on it. The bars you see are what I was using to pull it forward. I built them so that I could gently pull both hinge mounting pads at the same time. After I got it where I thought it should be I scabbed a couple of pieces to hold it in place until I got the new panels in. Now I am trying to get things squared better before I continue. I am trying to get things close now while I have the chance instead of fighting with it later. I am by no means a body man so any input would be appreciated. I am just a machinist... . Maybe that is the problem I am trying to make it to perfect .



Bernie

[Daniel U]

My '54 had the same damage done to the same side in the same spot. I believe the guy who repaired mine, cut out the panel, then pryed the door hinges out and then welded in the new patch panel in place. I'll try and see if I can find the pics. Good luck! I hope this helps, Daniel

[sevt_chevelle]

The best thing is to fix the problem now before you even think about welding in new panels. Do you have access to a porta power? You can brace it inside your door opening and push it out. Harbor frieght sells a 4ton unit for about 120 bucks, nice tool to have.
All it is a powered ram used for pushing. With the ram you can brace it against the corner on the opposite side and put the other end right in the inner cowl and push it out and forward. Of course this might be different if I was seeing it in person.

I would also try and remove most of that dent in the cowl. The tension on that dent can be holding pillar in place. Uf you remove the dent you remove the tension on the pillar.

[pgf545]

Ok, today I went down there and started measuring. I made a grid using the lower hinge bolt holes as a referance starting point. Then using the pass side I took measurements all the way down the opening. I made a few adjustments but for the most part the door frame is the same from side to side. The worst was 1/32 out. After looking at the front gap I realized that it is the outer cowl panel that is causing the large gap up front. The cowl panel over laps the door pillar and it is what is bent forward. I am feeling much better about where thing are now. The door still seems to be to far back but I think I can adjust that out with the hinges. The first two pictures show the grid and the next two show the laser level that I used for referance. I used the level as a guide making the frame of the truck the measuring plane and then the 2 bolts as another plane. That way I could ensure that the cab was level to the frame. The grid marks are 2" square and I used the laser level to shoot a line from the front grid to the rear one so that they were on the same plane. I numbered all the grid lines and took measurements at every line...both on the inside and outside edges. I took as many measurements as I could both on the grid and to various other points to compare sides and up and down. Does it look I am heading the right direction? I think when I get the outer cowl on the front gap will clean up. The pass side seems to be ok but is a little tight to close but I think that the old weather stripping is hard not letting it close properly...but the gaps seem to be fine there. Well I won't be able to get back on it until next weekend or maybe the next after that. Thank sevt for the help and addition feed back is appreciated.

Thanks Bernie