08-27-2002, 09:37 PM | #1 |
Fords Worst Nightmare
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Location: odessa,tx
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best heads
i was looking through the new summit racing catolog, and i was wondering which head to buy but i dont know anything about them, so i was wondering which ones do yall think r the best, speed and power wise. thnaks
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My 69Chevy C/10 Yee Boo |
08-27-2002, 10:15 PM | #2 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Way to many variables to answert that.
Questions like; street or race? you going to port, or leave unported? Low RPM, or a top end screamer? Small cam or a huge bumpstick? Forced induction, or naturally asperated? If forced, will it be a super charger or a turbo? Nitros, or none? stock compression, or 15 to 1...or somewhere in between? Many many more questions. |
08-27-2002, 10:15 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
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i GOT THE WORLD PRODUCTS 64C.C. HEADS WITH THE 220 RUNNERS FOR MY 350 THE MOTOR IS BORED .030 OVER WITH TRW FORGED PISTONS AT 9:1 COMPRESSION AND A COMP CAM 268H AND I AM VERY PLEASED WITH THE OVERALL PERFORMANCE AND DRIVEABILITY.IT'S GOT VERY GOOD LOW END TORQUE AND THROTTLE RESPONSE IS TERRIFIC I AM USING AN EDLEBROCK 650 CFM CARB AND I RUN 92 OCTANE PUMP GAS
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08-27-2002, 10:17 PM | #4 |
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how about world products s/r. good as the best factory heads and cheeep enuf that they make rebuilding old heads questionable.
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08-27-2002, 10:26 PM | #5 |
Fords Worst Nightmare
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longhornmail
Way to many variables to answert that.
Questions like; street or race? STREET you going to port, or leave unported? WHICHEVER IS THE BEST Low RPM, or a top end screamer? DOESNT MATTER TO BE Small cam or a huge bumpstick? PROLLY SOMEHTING LIKE EDELBROCK RPM CAM Forced induction, or naturally asperated? NATURALLY If forced, will it be a super charger or a turbo? Nitros, or none? NONE stock compression, or 15 to 1...or somewhere in between?DO WHAT? As u can prolly tell i know near to nothin about this kinda stuff.
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My 69Chevy C/10 Yee Boo |
08-27-2002, 10:44 PM | #6 |
Psycho-billy Member
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First, you need to decide how you are going to use this motor. Is it going in a truck that's going to be used for towing or hauling or is it going to be used for street/strip racing? Next you need to decide what material you want to use, iron or aluminum. And probably most important, how much do you want to (or can you) spend?
There are many different heads available. Some are made to give you low end torque (good for hauling and towing), some are for high RPM (racing) and some will kinda work in the middle. Some are reasonably priced and some are really expensive. Is this for a small block Chevy?
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'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian). Last edited by lux hauler; 08-27-2002 at 11:09 PM. |
08-27-2002, 10:50 PM | #7 |
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lol..do what.. I guess what were trying to ask is... is this a street driven cruiser..maybe a little stop light to stop light action, if so, I would either go the vortec route or some iron eagle 180 cc intake runners the larger the intake runner the higher rpm capablity and less low end torque. It best to make a balanced system..keep your cam, intake,heads,headers and rear gears to all work in the same rpm range, If its a street cruiser, concentate on low end torque and max rpm in the 5500 rpm range
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
08-27-2002, 11:03 PM | #8 |
Fords Worst Nightmare
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ok
ok heres what i want
the trucks going to be a weekend truck for me to do smokey burnouts whoop some ricers and impress the girls lol, and kick the crap out of my friends lil cars. so prolly just stop light to stop light might do some muddin u never know, or chase a rabbit wide open hehe. 1972c10_ohio:Is this for a small block Chevy?YES i know for sure im gonna put an big carb prolly a 650-750 prolly edelbrock, and a edelbrock rpm manifold. as for the rest i was gonna get a rebuild kit with new rods and stuff from summit racing also would yall suggest a cam. 1972c10_ohio:And probably most important, how much do you want to (or can you) spend? Dad said he would split everything with me half and half. need any more infor ask away.
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My 69Chevy C/10 Yee Boo |
08-28-2002, 12:20 AM | #9 |
Senior Member
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cam suggestions are tuff..need tranny type and rear end ratio and tire size if you have th350 auto id stay around 268 as a high duration number, that is if you have a 2500rpm stall with atleast 3:73 gears, if yu want long smokey burn outs that is.
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
08-28-2002, 02:31 AM | #10 |
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Air Flow Research are the best....and more expensive. 180ccs flow as good as Vortecs down low and blow them away in mid range. They are named correctly- they are based on extreme flow research.
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69 C10 longbed: 357c.i. /TH400/3.73s/AC/ beige primer/saving $ for paint ______________________________ |
08-28-2002, 09:18 AM | #11 |
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I agree with hans, the best heads IMHO are AFR's, but they are around $1200. For what you want, and let me throw this in, never, never use the Edelbrock RPM cam....
But heads, get the Dart Iron Eagles. The 200cc runners, 64cc combustion chambers will be fine. They come with bronze guides, etc. So that would be my choice. Now, if you have a lower compression motor, look at the Comp Xtreme lineup for cam. Like the XE268. You can still use stock converter if you have it, but a 2500 stall would be sweet. Intake, Edelbrock RPM for sure...pulls from 1500-6500 all day. That's what I'd do.... |
08-28-2002, 09:48 AM | #12 |
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Whats wrong with the Performer RPM Cams? What about the Performer RPM heads too? ANy info?
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1970 Chevy C-20 350 V-8 Turbo 350 w/ shift kit Dana 60 w/ 4.10 gears AND Powr-Loc POSI New Additions: Summit Headers 135amp alternator Proform HEI Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb Sunpro Tach Powr-Loc POSI Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake MSD 6A Ignition Box AIM: HotRod929 Visit My Site: http://1970chevy.netfirms.com/ |
08-28-2002, 09:51 AM | #13 |
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Head are good, hardware on them is not really up to par. If you get the Edelbrock heads, get them bare and have them built.
The cam is too agreeive and older grind technology. There are alot better cams out there now..... |
08-28-2002, 10:53 AM | #14 |
Cowboy Fan for Life!!!!!!
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Most of my buddies that race all the time say air flow research. hands down. Spend the extra money, you won't be dissapointed..................JB
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1967 ShortBed Fleetside 3/4 Drop 350/700R4 Tilt wheel 18 x 8 Torque Thrust II's Future mods: All new gauges & wood bed My Zip is 23002 I ship UPS, USPS |
08-28-2002, 02:02 PM | #15 |
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Edelbrock Performer RPM
I optioned for the Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads($934Jegs),
Comp 280 Magnum cam, 1.5 roller rockers, Performer RPM Intake and kinda wished i got the Air Gap , Holley 750double pumper, MSD 6a ignition, 700r4transmission, 3.73 rear open but when money allows Eaton Posi. Mine is still in the paint shop and I will post lotsa pics when done. As far as performance, I love the lope of the cam thru 40series flow masters. Sounds and feels good. Mine will be a saturday nite cruiser and i can hardly wait to see what it'll run in the 1/4ect. Sounds like you are getting a real good deal at half price. Dont forget to tell Dad THANKS. Guy
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guypm 1971 SWB Fleetside/350 performer rpm heads &intake/ holley 750dp/1.5roller rockers/MSD6a/700r4 1650stall/one piece driveshaft/3.73 open/dynomax ceramic coated headers/3chamber flowmasters/ |
08-28-2002, 02:33 PM | #16 |
Just an Old Mr Goodwrench
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I'd recommend a set of stock 327 double hump 1.94's, but then I'm trying to sell a set
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1969 CST 20 Longhorn 1970 CST 20 Fleetside 1991 Jaguar Sovereign 1992 Mazda Miata |
08-28-2002, 03:08 PM | #17 |
WTF
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For just playing around I would go for the vortecs they got good flow numbers and the have a reasoable price. If it was to see serious race or street the Darts or Airflows are super.But just playin in the mud or street look at the vortecs.Go to this web site they have done a bunch of testing on chevy heads. www.chevyhiperformance.com/web.
They got flow numbers and all kind of info.
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Some people are wise, some people are otherwise. 72 cheyenne primer factory air lowered rallyes with flat caps flowmasters 12 bolt 3.73 350/350 combo needs rockers . Cowl hood installed. 81 Malibu wagon lowered with 17's bright ass yellow and v-6. 71 225 Electra all original 455/4 81 z28 |
08-28-2002, 03:39 PM | #18 |
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What kind of budget are you on? That's probably the best question. Champagne tastes are great if you are on a Champagne budget. If you are on a light beer budget, that's different! For my money, I'd buy a LT1 from a 94-96 Caprice Cop Car. Pocket port the iron heads and add the GM LT4 hot cam kit. Figure the motor at about $800, the HOT cam for $500 (cam, springs, retainers, locks, 1.6 aluminum roller rockers) and a $350 gasket set (That's a pokin' on the gaskets, but that's the price to play!) Add the GM LT1 carbureted intake and distributor of your choice and or less than $2k you can have excellent heads (most people say the iron head is almost as good as the fast burn aluminum head and better than the standard LT1, your call.) hydraulic roller cam, aluminum rockers, everything to put 300 hp to the rear wheels and you can convert to serpentine drive system. Sell off all the FI stuff to help finance your swap, or put it on the car if you are an experienced fabricator. If you are a wheeler dealer, you may even do better than that! Best thing about swaps is you can continue to buy and build your motor and keep driving your truck. Once it is pieced together, do a weekend swap!
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08-28-2002, 05:08 PM | #19 |
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ChevyMonkey, I think Mike C's question and comment about budget is right on target. There are many ways to build a powerful SBC with 400-500HP. BTW how fast are you buddies imports? Just asking because I saw some kid with a ricer on the chassis dyno about a month ago make 530HP at the rear wheels.It would take a h@ll of a SB in a truck to run with that, but it could be done for less than the $30,000 he spent on his engine.
What kind of shape is the rest of the truck in. Suspention, steering, brakes, tranny,converter, clutch,rearend. Just asking because when you place a strong engine in one of these truck everythingelse really needs to be in tip top shape, weak or worn components will ethier break or get you into trouble. If you need upgrades be sure to figure them into your budget. Here are a couple of links to some engine combos that will give you an idea of what to expect. Ryanscarpage have over a 100 different dynoed combos. Personally I think the 383's and 400's make good power plants in these trucks. I also like the AFR's. Check out some of their dynoed combos. Good luck! http://www.airflowresearch.com/ http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/chp/Welcome.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
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72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma |
08-29-2002, 07:47 AM | #20 |
Cowboy Fan for Life!!!!!!
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What kind of ricer was he driving that was making rear wheel power???..............JB
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1967 ShortBed Fleetside 3/4 Drop 350/700R4 Tilt wheel 18 x 8 Torque Thrust II's Future mods: All new gauges & wood bed My Zip is 23002 I ship UPS, USPS |
08-29-2002, 03:59 PM | #21 |
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I think it was a mid 90's Nissan 300ZX. He said he was going to add a NOS kit next and that should put him over 600HP.
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72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma |
08-29-2002, 04:58 PM | #22 |
Official Beaver Inspector
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I NEED NOS!!!
(a little fast and furious humor)
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70' C-10SWB beater with a heater, one day haulin a$$ with class |
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